1 1. Introduction to the Research Project This first chapter introduces the Research Project. Following an initial contextualisation, the chapter looks at the research question, assumptions and limitations. If heritage is the contemporary use of the past and is defined and constructed through present circumstances, then, because those are not agreed, heritage itself cannot be otherwise. It is often conflicting meanings, combined with the multi-use and multi-consumption of heritage, which makes any attempt at synthesis so complex and prone to constant qualification. (Graham et al. 2000: 256) * 1.1 Research in Context Places and individuals. People in space. Individuals actively making homes, existing in their environment, surviving, creating networks, building relationships, feeding, being part of a system, creating a history, their history, determining their surroundings, choosing their path, having choices made for them, feeling at home, abandoning their houses, encountering the different, appropriating the different, becoming different, always becoming. Places and individuals. Mozambique Island, Ilha de Mo?ambique in Portuguese, is situated in the northern province of Nampula, in the Republic of Mozambique, in Southern Africa. In December 1990, UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site1, for its unique architecture, a testimony to the history of the ?discoveries? and a product of the amalgamation of different cultural and scientific practices and knowledges. The majority of the population of Mozambique Island currently lives in a state of poverty, with poor access to public health facilities, extremely low economic conditions and in a physical environment that does not respond to their needs as individuals or groups. In early 2007, I set off to conduct qualitative research on this island. My main research question broadly related to the then current state of the island ? why is this World Heritage Site not being conserved, restored and managed, as one would expect of places with such recognised universal value? In gaining in-depth understanding into the attitudes and perceptions of the islanders that hold positions of hierarchical power and decision-making, I aimed to understand the networks that were in place, and those which were absent in the conservation, maintenance and management of the World Heritage of Mozambique Island. In the process of my investigation, I managed to obtain some key answers to the question I first posed. This research report aims centrally to share those key answers in a creative way. The connections between theoretical, analytical and factual components have been processed in order to allow for the fluidity of voices to converse and express the complexity of the location. 1 Appendix 1 ? UNESCO?s Declaration granting Mozambique Island World Heritage Status, December 1990 2 The concepts and ideas of appropriation and complexity are central themes in my research. In them, identity and space are strongly engaged with to illuminate the relationship that individuals acquire/construct/reconstruct/abandon with the World Heritage of their place of residence. Coming from a theoretical standpoint where space is understood as something physical, rational and/or emotional that individuals and communities create, recreate, have access to, and/or are rejected from, Mozambique Island, as a World Heritage Site presented as? an incredibly interesting place from which to analyse how the access and knowledge we have of this, determines our appropriation of it. It was the idea of appropriation that initially helped me understand the islanders? attitudes towards World Heritage, in the context of globalisation and locality, where the complexities of a place dictate how this appropriation is performed, the degree to which it is carried and the reasons that lead to it. As only through the observation of the various complexities that make up this island could I gain access to the island?s interiority, fieldwork was dedicated to the awareness of these. I sought to understand the island?s specificity, in relation to the universal status bestowed upon it. In sharing my research, I decided that the use of different voices to bring out these complexities and the various layers present in this island would be necessary. As well as my voice as the researcher presenting factual evidence and analysis of this, direct quotes from the interviewees and my fieldwork notes are weaved with photographs, portraits and maps. * 1.2 Research Question Research questions serve to guide one?s investigation. I departed into the field with this hope. However, encountering various unexpected novelties, which although did not alter the main research question, did indeed alter methodologies, broke some of my expectations, and made me a more robust fieldworker. Throughout the course of this research, from its inception to the current process of writing up, the research question(s) have been subject to change. It is safe to say that when a research location lies close to one?s heart, one is sometimes sabotaged by one?s own confusion and willingness to answer one too many questions that tend to pile up throughout the experience of this ever-enticing location. I guess Mozambique Island, for me, represents the forever in the process of research and curiosity space. And in acknowledging this, I voice the danger that this entails, for it can confuse the focus ? it opens a world that can dangerously become more encapsulating than the actual research. Two processes have helped me overcome this: firstly, being part of a short consultancy for UNESCO towards the development of educational material on Heritage and Conservation for the residents of Mozambique Island in late 2008, and secondly, understanding that any location will always have issues and problems that need to be noticed and analysed. Each research project can only be extended to the diameter of the research questions, to ensure that these are answered in their complexity and depth, or in other words, that each research project is inherently bound by its subjectivity and timeframe. 3 Ilha, a place that I have fantasised about from a young age, a place of my father?s beautiful memories of childhood, a place where different ?civilisations? met, a place that held time still, and that just by its sole existence manifests history, time, the discoveries, fighting, difference, and architecture. Architecture assumes an important role in my life, as my home environment while growing up was filled with drawings, and card boards, fa?ades, and many infinite words about buildings, design, and light, wind, function, aesthetic. So the idea of an island where my father had grown up with his parents and siblings, an island that had been once the capital of the whole country, whose buildings were unique and representative of a period, that their value as witnesses of the past had declared them heritage of the world, filled my dreams, my curiosity and slowly started constructing an island that belonged, for many years, solely inside of me. * State in light of Status The research question has gone through various stages, all of which had a practical and investigative character, and each sought to answer the broad question of why the island is in its present preservation and development state. This physical and cultural heritage for which the island gained its World Heritage Status in 19902, is seemingly being destroyed by both the lack of maintenance, and its present usage. My final and current research question aims to address the issue of state in light of status, and vice-versa. In the larger political and economic context of Mozambique, and of developing countries at-large, decisions are, for the most part, made from the top, and presumably benefiting the bottom, where the benefactors of development programs have little or no say in the design and implementation of projects that are to have an impact on their livelihoods. In the case of the programs that do attempt to have a bottom-up approach3, the conception and implementation are not guaranteed to have positive results, given that they depend on the technical expertise and quality of the participation from the stakeholders involved. Before starting my research, my assumption was that a similar situation of mismanagement, or lack of participation in the management, was taking place in Mozambique Island. From the perspective of a Mozambican, but outsider to the island, the situation seemed somehow disparate: UNESCO gives the island a World recognisable status, the National Government declares its Special Status (the national media thrive on using images of the Island to promote some sort of national identity), but the island remains in a situation of extreme poverty, while both its tangible and intangible heritages are slowly being 2 Appendix 1 ? UNESCO?s Declaration granting Mozambique Island World Heritage Status, December 1990 3 In management and the organisational fields, the terms top down and bottom up are used to indicate the manner in which decisions are made. The bottom up approach is one that works from the grassroots, causing a decision to arise from the joint involvement and participation of people working together. Figure 2: Side view of my paternal grandparents home in Mozambique Island 4 destroyed, forgotten or substituted. Even though, I understand that World Heritage brings high status to a country, I think this should be a consequence, and not an end in itself. After all, the status is granted because this specific location holds value to the understanding of a period in history, for the whole humanity, including those who are still to be born. * A Complex, Specific and Unique Location Following these first thoughts, I then asked: if such important status was granted by such an important and world-renowned body ? Unesco ?, then why is it that the management and conservation of the island is not being taken seriously by the National Government? Who has the responsibility to maintain and restore its physical and cultural heritage? Is it a case of negligence? Is it a case of ignorance? Mismanagement? Bad governance? A consequence of colonialism? A case of neo-colonialism? The possibilities seemed endless, and as I had a first glimpse at Mozambique Island as a research location, I came to understand that its reality is incredibly complex, specific and unique. The complexity of any location, and the possibility of various answers, made me unsure of where to start. I first thought that looking at the historical geography of the island would allow me to understand the attitudes and values attributed to heritage, according to the historicity and geography of the island. Then, I moved on to what I thought to be a more underlying problem, which included issues of scale ? the global status vs. the local state. The rationale was that perhaps this would help me to answer issues of citizenship, space and participation, which on the other hand, would hopefully aid me in understanding and drawing conclusions about the way the islanders, Unesco and the National Government took care of this World Heritage Site. Through this process, it became clear that I had to know how the citizens of the island understood/perceived World Heritage, their sense of participation, their knowledge, their aspirations, their priorities, and finally, their appropriation of it. * Figures 3, 4 and 5: Kids in the street, fa?ade of a building in Stone Town and view of boats arriving in Mozambique Island 5 ?They gave it that name of World Heritage for nothing, just because. We don?t know why they gave that name. You come here and there is so much rubbish [?]. There are people that buy ruins and leave them. And now we have a pile of added ruins, so things don?t get better.? Roquia, Habiba, Ahsha, Lima, Fatima, Anshia, Waquim, Zaitouna, Amina Mussaji , Habiba, Manaueto, Zaina Khalifas of various tariqas; Photographed in the courtyard of Khalifa Habiba?s house, in Macuti Town 6 Why is the World Heritage of Mozambique Island in its Present State? The final and main research question that drives this research project is Why is the World Heritage of Mozambique Island in its present state? The first premise is, as will be read in the theoretical framework, that one?s own sense of access to space, which is undoubtedly informed by a series of factors to be explored further on, including knowledge, participation and decision-making, influence one?s sense of citizenship (including quality of life), which on the other hand has an impact on how individuals take care of their environment (Sandercock 19974). The second premise is that the knowledge that one holds about the importance of World Heritage is directly related to the manner in which one relates to it. Perhaps these were not only premises, but also assumptions, which I later concluded to be incomplete in their formulation, where my theoretical proposal that the appropriation of change and adaption to new global ideas and practices becomes a vital concept in my argument. I look around the island one more time this morning. In its perimeter, I see individuals walking slowly. Some older than others; everyone an islander. Me, a researcher whose father lived here for many years. A white and foreign looking Mozambican. A woman. I seek to hear stories of another time, and yet it is the now that I am mostly attached to. I sit here, writing on this bench, in the park recently renovated by the city council; I observe the grass growing over the beautiful design patterns of the park?s garden, the rubbish, the goats eating the newly born grass, the colours of the band stand departed with the strong rains. The renovation took place three years ago, yet the park looks old and forgotten. I wonder how this comes to be, and get excited about exploring issues of citizenship. It is when we feel our own space that our sense of citizenship is raised, in turn contributing to our increased sense of responsibility and interest in keeping one?s space clean and ordered. Who owns Mozambique Island? And in what manner is the World Heritage status undermining the sense of ownership of the islanders? On the other hand, how does extreme poverty induce and provide a scenario where taking care of physical property is not on individuals? priorities? Would tourism be a solution? Or given the economic and social context, could it contribute to the reinforcement of some of the existing difficulties and disparities? How can the World Heritage benefit the population of this Island? Is there a solution that can contribute to the betterment of the quality of life and the maintenance of the physical propriety of the island? Or in other words, in a case of extreme poverty, can buildings and individuals benefit equally? Which should be prioritised? I?m left with more questions. The goats wander close to me. They are certainly enjoying the park, perhaps because their owners have found this to be their best way of taking advantage of it. Maybe. In summary, my research question is about a paradox: Mozambique Island is a place that has been designated as a World Heritage site and has been recognised within Mozambique for its Special Status. Yet it is in a state of disrepair and buildings are being rebuilt and reconstructed in ways that are not consistent with the designation. There is clearly a problem: How do you build local support/identity with World Heritage designation in a place that faces many hardships? * 4 Sandercock (1997) argues that individuals? access to space determines their relationship with it. In line with the actor-network social theory, in which individuals and objects have agency and relationships exist between them to form networks that are created, developed and which die, Sandercock (1997) clarifies that the relationship that exists between individuals and space is determined by the access that individuals have to public space, how much they own it, how they are allow to use it and transform it, and how they are barred from it. This determines how individuals take care and maintain the public space that surrounds their everyday lives. 7 1.3 Research Assumptions This section explores the assumptions that I took with me to the field, which were, through the process of research, modified and ultimately transformed. Assumptions are like double-edged knives. On the one hand, they can feel like one is stepping back while in the field, as they cause the need for change in methodology, in conception and, definitely, in the understanding of a place and its inhabitants. Dealing and being aware of my assumptions has been an important personal goal, which entails having thoroughly conducted my desk research and being open to the field findings. On the other hand, assumptions are invaluable ? they require an open-heart, much awareness and knowledge of the location to be studied; always caught up in them, having to break them, to overcome them and reformulate one?s understanding, and through that process, constructing continuously clearer and fuller multi-dimensional pictures of the field processes and social mechanisms. In addition, it is through assumptions that one directs field research, as one always assumes that a specific theoretical framework would be successful in investigating a location, until it partly needs to be reformulated, added on, or even replaced altogether. My assumptions were both theoretical and practical. In the theoretical realm, as mentioned in the previous subsection (Research Questions), before entering the field I assumed that I could investigate the present state of affairs on the island regarding the maintenance of its World Heritage, through a framework of citizenship and access to space. Furthermore, added to that framework, I assumed that the knowledge of World Heritage and its significance could also determine/influence one?s relationship with World Heritage as a patron of humanity?s most valuable assets. I failed to take into consideration poverty, and how the lack of economic resources leads to an instability and self-reliance that does not allow for the consideration of things such as the importance of maintaining a World Heritage Site for the sake of humanity?s understanding of its past ? unless it brings individual and communal benefits. Poverty, education levels and potential benefits from conserving World Heritage were not obvious factors in my initial theoretical assumptions. Furthermore, although I understood locations as complex entities in permanent change, I did not expect the notion of complexities to become such a key concept in investigating appropriation. In the practical realm, my assumptions were due to lack of experience. Firstly, and perhaps that which was most significant, I assumed that after my physical arrival on the island, within a few days I would be able to start interviewing and collecting substantial data. Instead, it took me three weeks to settle onto the island (Stone Town, the neighbourhood in which I was living), to find a suitable interpreter/field research assistant, to identify the individuals I would interview and to negotiate my own identity in the field. Although I see the fieldwork process as flexible and one which is continuous, from the moment one arrives to when one leaves (and I might also include, the pre-conceptions, the dreams before arrival, the memories and the dreams upon departure), within the timeframe there are different stages through which the researcher goes through (to be discussed in the chapter on methodology) that I had not accounted for, nor was I aware of my need to go through them to ready myself to interact formally with my subjects. Although the field research started on my arrival, when I started collecting field-notes and became an active participant in the life of the island, it did not mean that I was immediately ready to engage as an interviewer with those around me. 8 Secondly, I feared that because I had arrived on the island with my husband, Khalid Shamis, who is a practicing Muslim, I would have difficulty being trusted by the research participants, who might assume that I was sharing the research findings with him. Instead, his presence granted me respect, for being married, and for being married to a Muslim, as well as a social/religious context where individuals could place me. Thirdly, although I was aware of potential problems arising from interpreting and translating, I did not expect to have as many difficulties. Fortunately, these were recognised early on and I changed my strategy accordingly. I became stricter regarding my direction, both in terms of the interpretations and the power relationship between Mr. Issufo (fixer and interpreter) and I. In retrospect, I find that my assumptions brought more awareness to the complexities of being in the field and shed light on the need to be open to the complexities of the field itself. Moreover, the act of transforming assumptions into unrealistic or actual realities, whether practical or theoretical, is one that I truly enjoyed: a process that shaped my research report and through which I grew as a researcher. Although acknowledging and being aware of one?s assumptions does not appear to be an obvious preoccupation, there has been much benefit in checking myself and changing, adapting and modifying my behaviour, understanding and theoretical framework. * 1.4 Research Limitations Projects have limitations by nature, whether due to lack of technical knowledge, time constraints, weather or other logistical problems. The limitations of a project determine and frame the outcome of a research project. In the context of my own research project, there were a few obvious, planned for and integrated limitations, and others, which I surprisingly encountered while in the field, and during the stages of analysis of data and report writing. Not speaking the local language of Macua was a great limitation for me, given that my chosen interpreter was not a trained translator/interpreter5, and that there were many expressions and local observations that I was not able to capture. In addition, Mr. Issufo?s position of power within the community ? him having been a District Administrator for Mozambique Island (as explained in the subsection that follows) was not always easy to manage. In the beginning of our work together, he often expected to make decisions and speak on my behalf. Due to the fact that I chose to interview individuals that occupy positions of recognised hierarchical power in Mozambique Island, the gender became predominantly male and the age average is 50 years old. I hear Macua all around me, and yet it is solely through Mr. Issufo that I get an insight into what is being said and expressed. I want my brain to transform these sounds into working phrases through which I encounter opinions, expressions and even perhaps, poetry. But my brain doesn?t do it, and I patiently wait for Mr. Issufo?s turn to translate, in his own words. Later today I remind Mr. Issufo again to be as objective as possible when interpreting for this project. He understands 5 There are no trained interpreters for the language combination Portuguese-Macua in Mozambique Island, and my research funding did not cover the services of a professional interpreter, who would have had to travel from Nampula or Maputo. 9 and agrees with the significance of this technicality and ethical consideration. I am comforted but continue to wish for Macua to, like in a dream, become comprehensible for me? that night I dream I am having a long chat with a khalifa. She speaks in Portuguese to me. I reply in Macua. The limited amount of time I spent in Mozambique Island, which led to the interviewing of a limited number of individuals, is the reason why I chose to concentrate on individuals that hold positions of power/authority in the Island, as a thematic parallel between the interviewees from which I could later draw realistic and useful conclusions. The existing political and religious conflicts were a surprise for me, and entail reflecting on strategies that would account for them. I chose to not allow these conflicts to interfere with my work as much as possible by working with all political factions, recognising their social value in the community and by being sensitive during the interviews without associating myself to a particular viewpoint and institution. Figure 5: Mr. Issufo outside his cousin?s house 10 ?Each person has to like where he or she is. For example, I like the madrasa the best, because that is where I spend all my time.? Abdul Rahim Ali Momade Director of Madrasa Babu Salaam; Photographed in front of the Madrasa Babu Salaam. 11 2. Research Methods This chapter describes the various methodological tools that were utilised during the fieldwork, analysis and writing-up stages of research. Each tool will be defined/put in context, in terms of its general utility, the reason to incorporate it, and the way in which I appropriated it. I arrive in Ilha and breathe in its warmth My body as a tool for research has started working. I feel the poor roads under my flip-flops, Feel the humidity tearing through my arms Shortly after I hear the call to prayer, I abandon my bags and walk to the mosque. I am in constant negotiation with my identity. The researcher goes to mosque. I can feel its novelty. The white looking girl goes to mosque. I can feel the curiosity And attempt to reject the limitations I have pre-imposed on myself, the fears of how I will be imagined Over the course of the week, Over the course of the following two months, I learn that I am not invisible And that certainly, my body never stops researching. Once my research question was clear, I moved on to clarify the research methodologies that would best aid me in exploring it. Due to the time constraints and small nature of the project, I was advised6 to solely use qualitative methods. I chose participative observation, individuals and group interviewing, collecting short narrative biographies as the base methodologies used for data gathering, while discourse analysis would be my main analytical tool. The following sub-sections describe the methodologies used during the various phases of this project according to Data Presentation, Data Collection and Data Analysis. At this stage I should add that, it is the onion like exploration of the location an ethnographer chooses that most excites and scares me. It excites me because it makes it clear to me that living in this world is about being open to the varied truths (in all their forms) that we encounter depending on our openness, identity, and general and unique tools we have acquired prior, during and post research. It scares me because the definitive acknowledgement of the subjectivity of anything produced by it becomes increasingly evident. If anything about me was different, the research results would be different, and if I had stayed for longer on the island I would have different information; and very importantly, if I had written this thesis within the framework I was expected and supposed to, I would not have been able to include information since then acquired, thoughts since then conceived, and an independence of creation and style since then perhaps matured. * 6 By my supervisor Professor Charles Mather 12 2.1 Data Collection: Sensual Ethnography The investigation I embarked on necessitated research at various levels. The purpose of data gathering was primarily to be able to have my research question answered and clarified. Notwithstanding, I also wanted to perform research in a sustainable manner, should this carry on at a later stage, or should some of its recommendations be conceptualised and implemented. This turned out to be challenging given the subjective nature of the research. I gathered as much information about each individual interviewed as possible, so that each person could be traced and re-interviewed and invited to participate in workshops, if that becomes the case. I have recently learnt to name the research that I practice sensual ethnography. This way of practicing fieldwork focuses on the apprehension and acquiring of information through the ethnographer?s senses, acknowledging the sensuality of the reality where he or she is encapsulated. Furthermore it acknowledges the ways in which one?s senses are awoken during fieldwork, allowing, in due course, for this information to be shared with the reader in a way that might awaken his or her senses. Sensual ethnography signifies that the ethnographer is open to experiencing the research location through his or her senses, going beyond rational and conceptual explorations; even going beyond the visual (which is a strong sense for an ethnographer) to add smell, touch, movement, and what cannot even be expressed. In the case of this research report, the use of the various methodologies chosen indicates the wish to express what was acquired during fieldwork. I recognise that this general approach to fieldwork has its limitations and that its subjectivity totally informs the style as well as the content of this research report. The following paragraphs describe the various methods used to gather data to answer my research question. Participant observation, as well as individual and communal interviews (including collecting short biographical narratives), amount to the main field methodologies used in the collection of data. In addition, photographs and portraits were used as methods to gather further insight into individuals? relationships with their built environment. * Participant Observation From the moment one arrives in the field, participant observation begins. One is admitted into a space in which one observes and is observed, in a constant dance of identity, positioning and construction of oneself and those around. This method can be taken to different levels in terms of one?s access. As a practising Muslim, I participated in the religious life of the island, from my arrival, even before I was identified as a researcher. Participant observation is a research strategy that aims to gain a close and intimate familiarity with a given group of individuals and their practices through an intensive involvement with people in their natural environment (Wikipedia, 2009). Originated through the works of Malinowski (1884-1942), and later, Boas (1858-1842) it consists of a qualitative research method that often involves the use of a range of methods Figure 7: Satamo and I walking the streets of Stone Town 13 from informal interviews, participation in the life of the group, focal group discussions, collection of life- histories and self-analysis, amongst others. Although it is a qualitative research method, it can be used together with quantitative methods in order to bring epistemological coherence to the research findings. Due to time limitations mentioned earlier, my methodologies are solely qualitative. The first fifteen days in the field were dedicated to exploring its reality, the dimension of the research problematic I had previewed. I spoke to numerous individuals, at various social levels, exploring their perception and opinion on my topic of research through informal conversation. The importance of understanding the manner in which the islanders perceived World Heritage was generally agreed upon, and overall I received much encouragement that my topic of research and its potential outcome was of interest to the islanders themselves. Into the third week of my fieldwork, I started engaging formally with my research. At this stage, the island started increasing in size, as my knowledge and experience of its people and intricate narrow roads expanded. Although I tried to distinguish between times when I was being an active researcher, and others in which I was participating in social and religious activities for personal reasons, one never ceases to engage in an observant way, and therefore participant observation was the methodology I used throughout the whole duration of the field research, one that sustained the other methodologies described below. While walking, engaging in conversation, in formal interviewing or just resting, I observed in great detail the manner in which the islanders used the buildings of the island, including the fort, the hospital and the mosques. In moving with those who live on the island, I was able to acquire some sensibility into the space inhabited on Mozambique Island, as well as conduct daily informal conversations that substantiated my thoughts, my questions and my understanding, which altogether allowed me to understand the complexities of the island. In addition, I participated in the social and religious lives of Mozambique Island. I attended the Central Mosque every Friday for the communal prayer (jumua) and was present at some group gatherings for the performance of dhikr (for further insight into these practices read section below on the Religious Complexities of Mozambique Island). Participant observation benefited my research in invaluable ways. Mostly, it aided me in placing myself as a researcher who has a personal life, and makes personal choices, even while researching individuals that are making judgements and attributing identities to me. * Field notes Silverman (2000) states that ethnographers who fail to use their eyes as well as their ears are neglecting a crucial source of data. Fieldwork is immensely fascinating. It involves one?s senses, and allows an individual to explore his and her way of interacting with the world. I agree with Silverman that one can forget to think, to make deeper and more general sense of what is happening, to begin to explain it in a conceptually coherent way (2000) and, in light of my reference to peeling an onion like research, I add the importance of field notes, in annotating particularities, thoughts, words, phrases produced by the contact I had with the physicality, emotionality and spirituality of this island. 14 In the spirit and practice of sensual ethnography, I wrote field notes daily while in the field. These told what I could see, as well as hear, describing everything in my surrounding environment. My behaviour as well as how I was treated and perceived by others was observed and noted, in addition to how individuals behaved and were treated by others present in particular situations. Field notes became pieces of information that helped me trace back my field research, from conversations to beautiful moments ? as I had noted them down, I could easily go back to them. In deciding to include some of these notes throughout this report (as the second voice), I aim to acknowledge their importance in constructing theoretical standpoints, understanding my surrounding environment and defining my experiences. In addition these field notes are used throughout this report to illustrate situations with greater intimacy. I?m exhausted. Walked through Esteu neighbourhood. The sun is piercing my skin, invading my privacy, I long for a walking fan. My backpack carrying my laptop and a bottle of water is heavy. Mr. Issufo walked by my side. We just found out that my interviewee, the Imam of the mosque of Ponta is nowhere to be found. We are sitting on the side of the mosque, giving our legs a rest. Mr. Issufo complains that we should have left the house earlier. I finish my bottle of water, and complain that it is too hot. * Population Group in Focus In wanting to gain insight into the current state of the World Heritage of Mozambique Island, I decided that it would be valuable to interview those who hold positions of power and authority on the island. It seemed likely that both in the past and the present, these were the individuals with most access to formal knowledge as well as access to participation, public affairs and decision-making. Together with my field assistant and interpreter, Mr. Issufo, I made a list of all formally and informally institutionalised groups in Mozambique Island, from religious groups to political parties7. Regarding the gender tendency of the interviewees, although male in their majority, there was greater than expected participation from women, as they are traditionally integrated into the higher ranks of the hierarchical organisations of the island social structure8. The average age of 50 years old has certainly determined the kinds of answers I received, as I assume that the younger generation has a different relationship with the World Heritage of Mozambique Island. As holding positions of power and authority is largely determined by increased respect and experience, most interviewees were older than 40 years. In this manner, the perceptions of the younger generation were not collected during the fieldwork, which although not a limitation for the present study should be the focus of further research, given that this is the generation which will be managing and conserving the island in the near future. * In-depth Individual Interviews As an investigative research project solely using qualitative research methodologies, in-depth interviews are the second main methodology used. In-depth interviews refer to interviews established by the 7 Appendix 3 ? List of formally and informally institutionalised groups in Mozambique Island 8 The social and religious organisation of the island stems from a matrilineal societal structure, incorporating women at high ranks of the Sufi brotherhoods. In addition, since the peace accords, Mozambique, as a democratic country, as made explicit efforts to bring forth gender equality through the participation and decision-making power of women as legislative and administrative players 15 researcher and developed together with the interviewee in an open and organic fashion, based on a skeleton questionnaire, allowing further questioning and exploration. Each interview took a minimum of two hours (although there was no minimum or maximum time limit), and sought to, firstly, explore various themes that surround the research question9 and, secondly, collect a short biographical account, so as to gain insight into each individual?s understandings based on his/her socio-economic, political and religious context. The skeleton of the questionnaire was divided into three main sections: [i.] biographical narrative, [ii.] current perceived and experienced state of life in Mozambique Island, and [iii.] knowledge, attitudes and behaviour towards World Heritage10. The interviews were all conducted either in Macua or Portuguese, according to the choice of the interviewee. When conducted in Macua, Mr. Issufo interpreted the interviews in a consecutive style and these were recorded on my digital voice recorder and subsequently transcribed into Portuguese by myself. In this manner, all interviews were analysed in Portuguese, and I translated the quotes chosen for the final text of my research into English. * Group Interviews By group interviews I refer to interviews that were based on the same basic skeleton as the Individual In- depth Interviews, but which were made with a group of individuals in the same time and space, who are from a particular shared denomination. Throughout the group interview I was able not only to collect factual information provided by the participants, but it also aided me in understanding the general way individuals relate to a specific topic as a group. The following were interviewed as groups: the sheikhs, the khalifas, the secretaries of the neighbourhood, the local chiefs and the secretaries of the council. The same basic questions that I used during the in- 9 Appropriation of identity; appropriation of space; globalisation of World Heritage; globalisation and locality. 10 Appendix 2: Full individual and group interview skeleton in English Figure 8: Informal interview with a shehe in his house in Macuti Town 16 depth interviews were used in the focal group discussions, though I fashioned them to support a discussion with more than one individual. Biographical narratives were not collected with the same level of detail. Individual interviews allow for the collection of in-depth information from each subject. On the other hand, group interviews, in situations of time constraints, aid the inclusion of multiple voices, interviewing more individuals that share a strong social identity in less time. Although in the group situations there are individuals whose voices are less heard, their presence nonetheless is felt and heard, and through short comments they trigger others into giving more in-depth accounts of thoughts, ideas and experiences. I arrived this afternoon at the khalifa?s house. Mr. Issufo and I were 15 minutes early. We were offered water and a place to sit. We sat in a wide cane mat and waited for the women to arrive. Within the next 20 minutes thirteen women arrived, all of them older than 40 years. I had asked Mr. Issufo to invite only the heads of the tariqas, those being the older women. I start by introducing myself, Mr. Issufo and the project. Mr. Issufo follows me, interpreting. He is interrupted by one of participants. She wants to correct him. I feel shaken. Working in an environment where one does not speak the language is tricky. We carry on. The participants introduce themselves, I write furiously in my computer, don?t want to miss one word, one idea, one opinion, and yet I need to catch their eyesight, to be present in their conversation. The women are happy to be participating in such a study. They voice their opinions, they want to be heard. Later, at home, Mr. Issufo and I have a discussion around my expectations of him as an interpreter. Tomorrow is another day. * Portraits In-depth and group interviews gather verbally constructed ideas, opinions and articulated attitudes. In investigating individuals? relationships with their surrounding built environment, I felt the need to use a research methodology that allowed for a different lens ? a non-verbal way ? in which I could analyse behaviour, relationship and choice. In light of this, portraits were chosen as a way of attempting to gain further understanding into individuals? relationships with the World Heritage site they inhabit. As Loizos (2000) points out, images offer restricted but powerful records of the real-world, real-time actions and events. He further argues that ?although social sciences are typically on the service of complex theoretical and abstract questions, it can use as primary data visual information that need not be in the form of neither written words or of numbers? (Loizos 2000: 93). Nonetheless, these visual records are not unproblematic or above manipulation, they are never more than representations or traces of more complex past actions. Because real-world events are three-dimensional, and the visual media is only two- dimensional, they are secondary, derived, reduced-scale simplifications of the realities that gave birth to them (Loizos 2000: 94). Following this thought, although the camera does not lie, the humans who are the agents who are wielding the cameras, can manipulate reality, including the very image once it has been taken. Portraits. Individuals in front of cameras. The power to decide where and how one is visually represented. The issues of representation addressed perhaps in more than one way. The power to decide where to be captured, and the responsibility that that power brings upon one self. How does one choose a space for one?s portrayal? What does one associate with? And what does one appropriate in their choice. 17 In the context of this research project, portraits are an interesting and powerful tool, as the individuals photographed were given the freedom to choose where and how they were portrayed and represented. Mona Moe Machava11, the photographer, a colleague and friend, has a special interest in the power relationship established between the subject and the photographer through and during the act of the portrait being taken. She uses a medium format camera. In this manner, taking photographic portraits grew to become a unique and essential methodology in the collection of data, where each participant chose where to be photographed, in terms of the place they cared for most in the island. As mentioned above, the third section of the individual and group interviews was dedicated to the relationship that individuals establish with the physical World Heritage of Mozambique Island. Individuals were asked about their favourite buildings, the buildings that should be given priority for maintenance, the building that they consider most valuable and most beautiful. Once all questions on this section had been answered, I asked whether the individuals or the group would agree to have their portrait taken in front of their favourite building. Everyone agreed and chose a building of their choice12. From the Green Mosque, to the hospital, to their own homes, answers were given, and portraits were taken. On the agreed day and time, Mona Moe and I met the individual or the group in front of the chosen building and took a series of portraits with Mona?s 1960s camera and a digital SLR. I held her flash meter as well as her flash while she engaged with each individual or group. We met Dr. Cristina at the front entrance of the Capitania, the harbour. She was wearing a colourful capulana, cloth, which she wrapped around her waist. In her eyes, I seek to understand her relationship with this island. It is obvious she is not from here, and she chooses to be represented as a tourist in the island. In countless positions and poses, she manifests her pride in being a woman, living in this island. And I wonder, how I get to such detailed conclusions. In her feminine poses she does not come across as a school director, but rather as a beautiful woman being photographed in front of a building she considers powerful, and historically significant. The Capitania held, during colonialism, an important value, as the place where the transport of trade was organise. And it was through trade that Mozambique Island came to be the city that it became. The portraits received very little digital manipulation. Mona solely adjusted the levels of light and contrast, but the content itself was not transformed and therefore I would argue that scitexing13 did not take place (Winston 1995). In the context of this research, the portraits serve as an added voice for the subjects, where they had the opportunity to physically relate to their city, to their location. The analysis of these can infer a wide range of information from body language, the chosen building and what these imply. Nonetheless I acknowledge that inferring strong and secure conclusions from these photographs is demanding (Loizos 2000: 98), and depending on the context can be extremely complicated. Readings have to be attained 11 Mona Moe Machava is an award-winning photographer of Norwegian origin, working in Southern Africa. She is interested in portraiture of youth in Africa, as well as capturing the power relationship that exists between the photographer and the subject. 12 Note that some interviewees changed their choice on the day of the portrait was taken. 13 Scitexing ? a more technical term for photographic manipulation (taken from the name of the company that developed the technology) and can include overlaying multiple negatives, airbrushing, image quilting and so on (www.elearning.ubc.ca: 2009) 18 ?In terms of World Heritage status, here, in the field, it?s only symbolic. If they gave that status then they should have invested. If this were somewhere else it wouldn?t be in this state.? Momade Noor Khan Imam of Central Mosque; Photographed inside his shop 19 after much social and historical understanding of the context where the photographs are being taken (Loizos 2000: 101). Portraits, as a methodology to assess the relationship individuals have with places, interrogating the appropriation of identity and space, was an interesting and effective tool, as it provided me with a real record of each individual that was interviewed. During the analysis process, looking at those portraits brought memories back to the interviews conducted while in the field, and allowed me to relate to both those individuals and the places they chose to be captured in an easier and more effective manner. In addition, it led to the arousal of questions relating to the photographs, image identity and photographing in Mozambique Island such as: How does an individual from the North of Mozambique interpret a photograph? How have photographs been perceived, from aesthetic and utilitarian points of view? What access have individuals had to photographs? What influences their perception of what a portrait is? What are their expectations of themselves as the ones being portrayed? What is their sense of ownership towards their portraits? * Ethical Considerations Given the limited amount of time I had to conduct my research, as well as its limited scope, I have decided to only use qualitative methodologies. Although I aim for my research results to be accurate and representative, they are, at all times, associated with the individuals that I have interviewed, and solely based on their and my opinion, as well as factual information gathered to support the understanding of the context and my theoretical arguments. In light of this, my research used the methodological considerations that follow to assure that the information gathered and analysed, can be read as representative, coherent, transparent and true, but nonetheless, subjective. In using qualitative methods to acquire data, one is sure to come across ethical considerations, in relation to issues of reliability, validity and representativeness. My research is of a subjective nature, wherein I acknowledge and believe that any other individual-researcher asking the same questions to the same individuals would not get the same answers, as these are in response to who I am and who I represent to them. So, how can my data be validated? Perhaps it cannot to the detail, but the standard of quality of the data I collected and the way the methodology was applied is based on high ethics of honesty and transparency. Garkell and Bauer (2000) believe that there is certain criterion that needs to be considered and incorporated into one?s methodology in order to have a research product that is ethically acceptable. They further argue that the design, methods and procedures, and the analysis and reporting, need to meet and to be seen to meet certain standards of quality (Garkell and Bauer 2000). According to these authors, the work has to have representativeness, where the population chosen to participate in the research should represent the broader context (Garkell and Bauer 2000). In the context of my research, I chose to interview individuals that were in positions of recognised hierarchical power, so as to gauge the level of knowledge and the relationship with World Heritage. The following methodologies were used to maintain a strong ethical holding on the qualitative nature of the research. 20 Triangulation and reflexivity, as explained by Flick (1998), are important processes for the researcher to go through. Reflexivity implies that before and after the event the researcher is no longer the same person. To call for triangulation of theoretical perspectives and methods (Flick 1998) is a way of institutionalising the process of reflection in a research project. In other words, the design forces the researcher to address inconsistencies as an ongoing part of the research process. In qualitative research one wants to ?see evidence of this labour of inconsistencies, as by struggling with inconsistencies novel understanding is generated through the fusion of horizons, which each depend on a perspective? (Gadamer 1989: 306 in Flick 1998: 345). Coming to term with my assumptions, deciding on a target group, organising interviews, analysing the material gathered in the field, amongst others, were processes in which I had to reflect on myself as a researcher, my research methodologies and theoretical framework. Being open to reflection and the change that comes with it was essential in understanding such a complex context and topic. My research methodology has followed clear steps of observation, choosing interviewees and collecting data, which can all be traced and used for further investigation in the field. In this manner, transparency and procedural clarity have been present. Although the primary function of documentation should be to enable other researchers to reconstruct what was done in order to verify or imitate it or for historical record (Lazarsfeld 1951 in Flick 1998), in this case I believe that it would be hard to track down the exact information that I gathered due to its highly subjective nature of the fieldwork. Thick description is used throughout my research report to provide the reader with insights into the local colour, the language and the world of the social actors of Mozambique Island. As much as the source can be a confidence marker, carefully indexed reportage is also a relevance marker. I hope that through careful and detailed descriptions the reader is brought into the milieu of the social actors, as they begin to make sense to him or her, and as that sense emerges, so are the claims and generalisations given credence (Geertz, 1983 in Flick, 1998: 347). I am sitting down in the step of an old house, close to the central mosque. I wait for my next interview with the president of OJM, who lives close by in the Macuti neighbourhood. My camera is charged, its memory full, and I sit here, pointing the lenses forward and clicking at those who pass: women, men, children, walking, on a motorbike, cycling. I notice the way they walk, the mannerism in observing me, the occasional pose, the wall cracking, the irregular roads, the children crying and playing to the camera; I notice the heat and how my hands and forehead sweat; I think of the interview to come; I make sure my digital voice recorder is in order and I start recording my surroundings as I see them: A woman passes with her child on her back, the child sleeps trusting of where he goes; two men pass by with fresh fish, they look in a hurry to go home and see their wives cook them lunch/dinner, teenage girls pass enveloped in colourful scarves, smiling at 21 the camera and at me; a motorcycle passes fast. It goes and it comes back, now with an extra passenger. Local surprise is another methodology employed during fieldwork, as a marker of the relevance of my research with regard to some theoretical expectations (Flick, 1998: 347). Thus for textual research one might expect to see evidence of revealing insights, of open-mindedness to contrary evidence, or a change of mind that may have occurred during the research process (Gadamer 1989: 353 in Flick 1998: 348). In this manner, evidence is used to confirm and disconfirm expectations. Although communicative validation14 was intended as a research validation technique, due to the short amount of time in the field, and the difficult access to the subjects interviewed, content of interviews has not be verified with the interviewees. * 2.2 Data Analysis: A Balancing Act Data analysis is the second stage of the process of researching. This can take a varying amount of time, according to the nature of the data collected and the methods employed for analysis. The generalisation of one?s analysis drastically depends also both on the nature of the data collected and the methodology used in doing so. Generally, there are certain methods that can be used to assure that generalisation can be made from one?s research. These could include the combination of qualitative and quantitative methodologies, purposeful sampling guided by time and resources, theoretical sampling and using an analytic model which assumes that generalisation is present in the existence of any case. In this research, I do not intend to generalise my findings, as they are specific to the context of the research both in space and time. Additionally, the quotes from the interviewees serve to specify and attribute opinion rather than recreate the general feeling. Nevertheless, I do intend to construct a complex picture, which although not generalist, aims to give an insightful, in-depth and complex understanding of the different opinions and attitudes towards World Heritage in Mozambique Island. According to Silverman (2000) data should start being analysed from the first day of the research project; the author suggests three stages, which I duly followed: [1] analysis of data already in the public sphere ? websites, novels, newspapers, radio, media, qualitative studies ? materials that are immediately available ? they provide a marvellous opportunity to refine one?s methods; [2] borrowing other people?s data ? look 14 Communicative validation is used in qualitative social research to enhance the validity of results: feedback on findings is systematically solicited from different stakeholders to challenge the data collected as well as its interpretation (www.peer-review-education.net, 2009) Figures 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 and 14: People of Mozambique Island, border of Stone Town and Macuti Town 22 into data that has previously be collected in the geographical area; and [3] analysis of own data as one gather?s it ? data analysis should not come after data gathering. I started transcribing field notes straight away, in this manner, reviewing my data in the light of my research questions. Unfortunately, the research report did not make use of previous research products around similar topics as these are not available. The problematisation of World Heritage around issues of identity, place and ownership has not been looked at before. My research does not build on existing facts or theories applied to Mozambique Island. Instead, it dives into the novelty of it, with fear of its size and hopes that once at the other end, things, phrases, theories, portraits make sense, and enlighten the above described issues, proposing new/added theoretical assumptions and frameworks from which to analyse change, and adapt our continuously global but local world. * Social Constructionism Social constructionism is a sociological theory of knowledge that considers the way social phenomenon develops in social contexts. Generally it understands that social constructs are by-products of countless human choices. It counteracts essentialism, a sociological theory of knowledge that considers that the essence of individuals, places and individuals determines actions and behaviour. A major focus of social constructionism is to uncover the ways in which individuals and groups participate in the creation of their perceived social reality. This research project projects a ground understanding of the reality of Mozambique Island as socially constructed. Its premise stems from the basic idea that individuals are active participants in the making and remaking of their reality, which therefore is in constant flow and fluidity, reacting to what people choose as individuals and groups. Socially constructed reality is seen as an ongoing, dynamic process; people acting on their interpretations and their knowledge of it reproduces reality in a constant and continuous way. * Actor-Network Theory No one acts alone. Within social constructionism there are various major social theories, which recognise individuals as active constructors of their reality. The Actor-Network Theory is a distinctive approach to social theory and research ? which interestingly emerged out of science studies (Barnes 2005) ?, developed by Michel Callong, Bruno Latour (1993, 1999) and John Law (1994, 1999). It maps relations that are simultaneously material ? between things ? and semiotic ? between concepts. It assumes that many relations are both material and semiotic, to form single networks between actors. This theory tries to explain how material- semiotic networks come together to act as a whole, claiming that entities take form and acquire their attributes as a result of their relations with other entities, and there are no limits to what those entities can be (Law 1999 Barnes 2005: 97). As Barnes affirms, the important point is that ?the meaning of an entity is a relational effect of its association with other entities? (2005: 70). In the language of this theory, individual entities are called actors (or actants), and the sum of the relations established among or between some 23 of them is termed a network. A network is a tight-knit assemblage of heterogeneous actants that are persuaded at least temporarily to stay in place, and work with one another to produce order. Order is only as durable as the network itself, however, and reaches only as far as the network extends. (Barnes 2005: 70) This theory has received vast criticism, including the absurdity of assigning agency to nonhuman actors, that it is amoral, that because it assumes all actors are equal within the networks no accommodations for power imbalances can be made and that it leads to useless descriptions that seem pointless (www.learning-theories.com, 2009). In my perspective this theory, like no other, supports the understanding that humans exist in a constructed world, and react to that world, and that relationships exist between them and emotional and physical worlds, in fluid, constrained and infinite other ways. I do not see it as amoral, and although the power of non-humans is recognised, in my understanding I am still able to attribute and recognise power differences within a network. The agency granted to the actors is not a property unique to human beings, and correspondingly it cannot and should not be identified exclusively in terms of linguistic and communicative capabilities (Gregson 2005). By awarding agency to objects and other non-human entities one is not denying human agency. Instead, one is recognising the value that all entities (human and not human) are actively present in the construction of systems of survival and development of relationships. The car that one drives, the house one lives in, the pet one strokes, the mountain one walks in, the train one takes ? all these have a certain amount of agency, and are an active part in the networks we create and maintain in our daily lives. Gregson argues, by admitting the agency of the non-human does not mean that we should abandon the difference that human agency makes; rather we should bring the affectivity of things and intentional, expressive, human action together (2005). This research project reflects on this theory and borrows some of its underpinning concepts. These are used to understand the relationships that individuals have with their physical and surrounding reality, as well as with the concept of World Heritage. The various formal and informal, visible and invisible networks were the focus of my research. These networks are understood to be potentially transient, existing in a constant making and re-making. I borrow from this theory the understanding that relations need to be repeatedly ?performed? or the network will dissolve. Furthermore, it is assumed that networks of relations are not intrinsically coherent, and may indeed contain conflicts (Barnes, 2005). Although it is argued that actor-network theory does not typically attempt to explain why a network exists, and is instead more interested in the infrastructure of actor-networks, how they are formed, and how they can fall apart, during my research reasoning why certain networks came to exist became central to gaining insight into their existence and their importance within its context. The actor-network theory further incorporates the principle of generalised symmetry, where humans and what is not human should be integrated into the same conceptual framework and assigned equal amounts of agency. Or in other words, the impact that things and structures have on individuals is acknowledged. In this way, one gains a detailed description of the concrete mechanisms at work that hold the network together, while allowing an impartial treatment of the actors (www.learning-theories.com, 2009). 24 * Feminism and Postcolonial Theory Within social constructionism, as an umbrella social theory, feminist and postcolonial voices shine a light into issues and situations less visible in overwhelmingly West-oriented academics and political arenas. These are voices that challenge the basis of dominant forms of knowledge, offering powerful reflection on subjectivity and identity, the importance of culture, and the nature of politics and resistance (Sharp 2003). As Sharp rightly puts it, feminist and postcolonial theorists ask political geography to expand its gaze?. Feminists famously state that ?the personal is political?, and that patriarchy works to exclude women from the political realm. Postcolonial theorists argue that the domination of Western forms of knowledge has similarly marginalised the voices and experiences of those from outside the West. Both require political geography to examine the power relationships woven through everyday life, and to challenge boundaries wherever encountered (Sharp 2003: 60). This decentralisation of the apparent universal knowledge of the West to demonstrate their situatedness has led to a complex and ambivalent model of political geography, in which there is a tension between a perception of the fluidity of borders and identities and an acknowledgement of the inescapable materiality of both (Sharp 2003: 59). The sense of fluidity, movement and hybridity that these voices bring to the social sciences is inspiring and fundamental in my engagement with research. This hybridity is not only the necessary attribute of the ?colonial condition? (Loomba, 1998: 176 in Sharp 2003: 64) but also further illustrates the inability of colonial authority to replicate itself perfectly and so undermines its own position (Bhabha 1994 in Sharp 2003: 64). In a location where different people have lived throughout the last six centuries, it is crucial to have this in mind, and to attempt to understand senses of identity and of space through such frameworks and standpoints. From work previously read, it has become clear to me that as Soja and Hooper argue, ?binary thinking is widespread in human geography and remains persistent and powerful in the shaping of landscapes of understanding? (Soja and Hooper 1993 in Cloke and Johnston 2005: 11). I believe that feminist and postcolonial voices counteract this, bringing the possibilities of fresh senses of being, which stem from engaging with the world and ourselves as multiple, as active, as marginal and, at the same time, hegemonic, for there are all these dimensions, according to the lenses that are used, the access one has to observe and interpret, and the person that one is. Furthermore, relationships between actors and networks are temporary in constant reassessment and development, allowing for difference and change. While Bhabha (1990) and Soja (1996) go further to offer the idea of a third term to signify a turn towards the critical potential ?third spaces? which refer to spaces that transcend what is produced by binary processes (Cloke and Johnston 2005), this research report does not apply this concept. Instead, as mentioned in the paragraph above, it uses postcolonial and feminist views to bring fresh air into the theorising and understanding of Mozambique Island, as an extremely poor place, with a past worth conserving for the whole of humanity. 25 ?Macuti Town is being forgotten. Macuti itself is finishing. People that have some money they put other types of roof. Also the people that are selling macuti are cheating; they don?t dry it properly so it lasts for about one year and then it starts to rotten. So of course people prefer to by corrugated iron.? Ibraimo Muss? Imam of the Islamic Council Mosque Photographed inside the madrasa of his mosque 26 * Analysis of the Discourse A discourse analysis is a careful, close reading that moves between text and context to examine the content, organisation and functions of discourse. In the final analysis, a discourse analysis is an interpretation, warranted by detailed argument and attention to the material being studied (Silverman 2000: 188). The analysis of research data such as talk can lead from very detailed analysis on to the social issues that typically concern social science researchers. It can be used to explore the kinds of categories assumed by participants. It can show how participants link and contrast activities and actors and how they present views of each other. It can lead to practical changes in the style and structure of interviewing and moderation. And it can be a step towards more reflexive research, enabling researchers to consider the kind of situation they have set up, the participants? orientation to it and their own roles in it as researchers (Myers 2000: 192). The methods of discursive analysis are employed in working with the data gathered through the in-depth individual and group interviews. The most popular approach is to treat respondents? answers as describing some external reality (facts, events) or internal experience (feelings and meanings). Realism is here used in the sense of the literary genre whose aim is to describe the gritty reality of people?s lives. In this approach, typical of tabloid journalism, confessional stories are gathered and presented to the researcher as new facts about personalities (Atkinson and Silverman 1997 in Silverman 2000: 122). As the first part of my interviews related to biographical information, narratives were collected of the various actors interviewed, with as much detail as possible about their lives in Mozambique Island. This detail helped me construct the identities of these individuals, so as to relate their answers and choices in relation to World Heritage in a more informed way. An alternative approach treats interview data as accessing various stories or narratives through which people describe their world. This approach claims that, by abandoning the attempt to treat respondents? accounts as potentially ?true pictures of reality?, we open up for analysis the culturally rich methods through which interviewers and interviewees, in concert, generate plausible accounts of the world. The realist approach has a high degree of plausibility to social scientists who theorise the world in terms of the impact of objective social structures upon subjective dispositions. The narrative approach uses culturally available resources in order to construct the respondents? stories. Participation in a culture includes participation in the narratives of that culture, a general understanding of the stock of meanings and their relationships to each other (Richardson 1990 in Silverman 2000). The idea is to see respondents? answers as cultural stories. This means examining the rhetorical force of what the interviewees say. Collective stories which resist the cultural narratives about groups of people and tell alternative stories (Richardson 1990 in Siverman 2000). Glassner and Loughlin (2000) argue that narrative analysis works through examining the nature and sources of the frame of explanation used by the interviewee. However, the character of what the interviewee is saying can also be treated, through a realist approach, as a factual statement and validated by observation. Another methodology used during the interviews is what Silverman (2000) terms 27 ?methodology of listening?, when the interviewer is centrally concerned with seeing the world from the perspective of the subjects and understanding the authenticity of the interviewees? experiences. * Analysis of Field data Returning home after data collection is not an easy task. Ultimately I felt inadequate and unsatisfied with the quantity of information, confused at the grandiosity of the various information sources and content which had been made available to me. It took me a long time to rationalise that the complexity that I had seen would be exactly what I would write about. That a location, although slow and poor, although lacking standards of good governance and so on, is still complex and made of amazing networks playing with and against each other, for the benefit of those who have power and those who dare manifest their voice. After I overcame confusion and self-imposed disappointment, I slowly introduced data analysis to the report. Below are some of the techniques, based on Miles and Huberman?s (1984) proposed methodologies, which were employed in this process, not in the order presented, but rather in an organic and very personal manner, perhaps untraceable. [1] Data Reduction refers to the process of selecting, focusing, simplifying, abstracting and transforming raw data. This method was applied in a very careful way and was extremely time consuming: firstly to decide which data chunks would provide me with the initial focus, secondly, to establish that all data chunks were important and that (as said above) my focus would be on the complexity of the research material/location/problem and finally, to decide that I did have to reduce the amount of data I would use in this research report in the presentation of my ideas and findings. [2] Data Display is an organised assembly that permits conclusion drawing and action taking. In looking at my interview material I drew mind maps, networks and tables that would help me group information by theme/issue and clarify the main direction of theoretical frameworks and theme analysis. [3] Conclusion drawing means beginning to decide what things mean, noting regularities, patterns, possible configurations, causal flow and propositions. This part of the process accompanied me from early on. I was quick to make conclusions, and I was equally quick, perhaps quicker and keener, to embrace newly acquired information and manufacture new conclusions. [4] Verification means testing one?s provisional conclusions for their plausibility, their sturdiness, their degrees of confirmation and their validity. In rather unconventional ways I did verify the main theoretical proposal that this report presents. Abundant thoughts were dedicated to its premise and its hypothesis. Countless thoughts led to conversations with fellow academics about this. There is no real way of testing my thesis, except whether it assists in uncovering the complexity of life in Mozambique Island as a World Heritage site. Ethnographic research has a characteristic funnel structure, as it is progressively focused over its course (Hammersley and Atkinsin, 1983: 175 in Miles and Huberman, 143-144). As described above, my research problem was developed and transformed over time, as well as the clarification and delimitation of the scope of the research and the exploration of the internal structure. The organic and sensual way in which I practice research and the subsequent writing of it, allowed me to transform throughout the last 28 two years, in which I suffered influences from authors read and thoughts constructed. Although I agree with Hammersley and Atkinsin (1983) that ethnographic research deepens like a funnel, I would like to challenge that metaphoric verb which in my opinion insinuates rigid narrowing, to say that ethnographic research deepens like a mine, in ever expansion, and we never know where we will find the precious comment, the fabulous subject, but we try different tools and we acquire renewed degrees of sensitivity, sensibility and knowledge, which in a dialectic way, determines the manner in which we proceed with digging (within the same metaphor is the idea that the digging never ceases ? a conclusion is temporary and subjective ? someone else would have dug in another direction, using different tools, come across different precious stones, and even if all the above were the same, in looking at the stone, different values would be bestowed upon them). * Analysis of the Transcripts I interviewed many individuals for long hours, using my digital voice recorder. In order to analyse my transcripts I had to go through a process of firstly figuring out how to organise each interview in the digital voice recorder in a functional manner. Once I figured that out, it became easier to record and to access what had been recorded. Secondly, I transferred all the audio to my laptop, producing many different files. Thirdly, these were carefully transcribed. Fourthly, I read them a first time making observations as going along. In reading a second time I started noting the various features of the apparent contexts in which communication had taken place. Nevertheless, in this process I did not aim to dissect all the information, or tried reading too much into what individuals had shared with me. Readings were read a number of times, after which I started picking up themes, which were later grouped (as much as possible). The chosen extracts were used throughout the report to illustrate theoretical stances, and to allow the voice of the subjects a real place in it. After all, the report is based on their histories and stories. * Analysis of the Visual Through the use of portraits, the intention was to analyse the subjects? engagement with the surrounding world, specifically reading the relationship that individuals have with their physical environment, in this case, a World Heritage Site. These images served to draw conclusions and observations about: individuals? most significant and important place in Mozambique Island, individuals? sense ownership of the World Heritage, the body language used in the portrait, in relation to the chosen place. In analysing the portraits, the subjectivity involved in this exercise is acknowledged. Another photographer would have taken them differently, and through a different set of questions, perhaps the subjects would have chosen a different place at which to be photographed. As explicitly noted, subjectivity is an active part of the product of this research, not something that shakes its credibility or the ethical positioning of the researcher. It is acknowledged that my analysis of the information contained in each portrait is also subjective as not everyone is equipped to recover it in the same manner. As Loizos (2000) points out while casual inference is easy, more secure inference is more demanding. Additionally, he explains that a photograph may arise in one of at least four ways: 29 1. The subjects can be caught off guard, behaving informally, by a photographer; 2. A group of subjects, hearing that there is to be a photograph taken, may position themselves in a way they consider to be appropriate; 3. A photographer may take the initiative to place subjects in a specific composition, and they may passively accept direction; 4. Same collusion or negotiation between photographer and subjects may take place (Loizos 2000: 99). According to these options, the photographs which I took throughout my fieldwork, as additional observations and aides in gathering detailed field notes, fall into the first two options: the subjects were caught off guard, or they positioned themselves in front of me when aware that I might capture them with my camera. On the other hand, the portraits taken by Mona Moe, according to Loizos?s (2000) categories, seem to fall closer in the fourth category where there is a negotiation between the photographer and the subject. Nonetheless, perhaps this description does not give justice to the manner in which those images arose. The portraits are a product of the subjects? choice of place, as well as their choice of body language in the photographs. The photographer did negotiate certain frames according to the position of the sun, and presence of sunlight. In terms of the analysis, Loizos maintains ?readings have to be attained after much social and historical understanding of the context where the photographs are being taken? (2000: 101). Personally, I am not indigenous to Mozambique Island, and I might add that my social and historical understanding of this island is limited to the two months of fieldwork, as well as a couple of other short term visits prior and post fieldwork. Nonetheless, given that the portraits were taken in the context of my research, I do believe that I hold enough information and social understanding to ascertain conclusive and useful observations from my analysis of them. * 2.3 A Three-Voice Narrative The presentation of my data and its analysis is particular to this exercise, and to my research report writing methodology. Its fragmented appearance, made of different fractions, which together serve to tell of a situation and of a story, are subjectively chosen and interwoven. Its tapestry like formation, aims to remind oneself and the reader of the ways in which life and the lives of people are interconnected, how they came into conflict, how they harmonise with actors and networks, and how this is in a constant production of new interactions, relationships and networks. I aimed to capture the rhythm of Mozambique Island during my visit there, filled with analytical observations, concepts and thoughts, which were interlaced with conversations, images, photographs, hugs, gossip exchanges and so on. Through a non- linear text, although still obliging to academic standards, I impose and offer the reader breaks ? where I share my thoughts, my experiences, quotes from other academics, images taken by me of the island and its residents, direct quotes of the islanders interviewed as well as their portraits taken by Mona Moe. My analytical and academic voice can be read throughout the research report, linking factual historical and current information, with theoretical concepts and frameworks, so as to build a structured analytical platform from which to understand my argument throughout the report. I consider this to be the main 30 voice of the research report. It incorporates direct quotes from fellow academics and other technical reports regarding the different themes of the report. The second voice is a subjective text, transcribed directly from my fieldwork notes, as well as memories of being in the field. A mixture of observations, poetry like sentences, this voice reflects who I am as a less filtered researcher, who I am as person who loves Mozambique Island, who dreamt of this island for many years, who relates to it in novel ways, and who allows the island and its residents to change her, penetrate her life, modify her routine, experience the unknown and dream of a better and more informed and participative future. ?The third voice represents the islanders that were interviewed throughout the course of my fieldwork. Direct quotes are placed where found to be elucidative, guiding, illustrative and to add value to an argument, a description or a theoretical conclusion. In choosing to find this voice its own space in the text, with its singular position, I aim to acknowledge its individuality, and that although a product of interviews conducted, transcribed, chosen and translated by me, they exist on their own, having value for who and what they represent and therefore deserve their dedicated space, their time and their position.? The fourth and fifth voices are of visual nature. I personally took photographs throughout my stay in Mozambique Island, of my immediate environment, the people with whom I interacted as neighbours, of the context of the interviews, the interviewees and other details that caught my attention. This accounts for the fourth voice, which is used within the text in small-scale images to illustrate an interview, an observation or a memory. According Loizos (2000), photographs can be taken in different ways. Towards this voice, photographs were taken of subjects caught off guard, behaving informally, by me, the researcher. In addition, there were occasions in which a group of subjects, hearing or seeing that there is to be a photograph taken, may have positioned themselves in a way they considered to be appropriate. The fifth voice was directed by me, and executed by Mona Moe. Portraits are printed in individual pages accompanied by captions from the interview with the photographed individual(s). The choice of presenting the portraits in single pages scattered throughout the report demonstrates the importance of this as information collected in the field, and as a fresh way of self-representation from the interviewees. In light of this, portraits are not placed in relation to the other text. They exist independently, and strive to make a statement on their own. 31 3 . L i t e r a t u r e R e v i e w This theoretical chapter aims to introduce the reader to the sphere of World Heritage. It starts by introducing the concept of heritage, followed by the origins and development of the World Heritage concept and status. This is followed firstly, by a review of existing conservation and management principles and methodologies, and secondly, by an exploration of issues of identity, space, ownership, scale and tourism in World Heritage Sites. * 3.1 Concept of Heritage: Definitions and Contextualisation ?According to me, I think that when we speak of heritage, we talk about a historic place, a tradition of the area itself, having something that other places don?t have. The history that exists in the museum and the fort [of Mozambique Island) for instance, doesn?t exist in any other country.? Ibraimo Muss? Imam of the Islamic Council Mosque Heritage is the central theme of this research report. But, what is heritage? Why is it relevant? Where does it fit within Human Geography and the broader Social Sciences? The section that follows aims to shine a light into these and other questions, while laying the foundations for the manner in which heritage is understood in the context of this present work. The concept of heritage is linked to the idea of inheritance ? that which is inherited from the past, that which we can still access in the present, and who is responsible for conserving for the future. Once a thing is destroyed and ceases to exist, it stops being our existing heritage. On the other hand, not all that is inherited becomes heritage, unless it has recognised value for conservation. Leaks maintains that heritage can be ?regarded as anything that someone wishes to conserve or to collect, and to pass on to future generations? (2006: 6). In this regard, it is clear that heritage only exists in relation to people, as humans are the ones attributing value and meaning to inheritance, it being natural or cultural inheritance. People collect heritage for their own benefit or for the perceived benefit of others. ?Because its architectural elements have, like in Zanzibar and Lamu, Arab influences. In history, they were many people that moved through this city, like Europeans, Asians, and many Africans as slaves, so went to the Comoros, to Madagascar ? they came from the interior and the harbour was here. So this was a slavery trade point from here to America. It was an obligatory stop over. And that?s how it got developed. And putting these elements together was used to classify the island as a World Heritage Site.? Gulamo Mamudo President of the Municipal Council Building on these traits which can help make the past beneficial to people, Lowenthal sees it as providing familiarity and guidance, enrichment and escape but also, and more potently, validation and legitimisation. (Ashworth and Graham 2005: 9) In establishing that heritage is subjective and that its existence is something worthy of conservation, one needs to go further to understand the manner in which this heritage is processed and produced. How choices are made and who makes them depends on the site/object of heritage ? where this received national, international, local attention, or a mixture of this, which in turn, leads to the concept of dissonance (later explored). Heritage is concerned with the manners in which very selective material 32 artefacts, mythologies, memories and traditions become resources of the present (Ashworth and Graham 2005). I agree with Ashworth and Graham (2005), that the contents, interpretations and representations of the resource are selected according to the demands of the present; ?an imagined past provides resources for a heritage that is to be bequeathed to an imagined future? (2005: 4). This argument is based on the idea that the meanings and factions of memory and tradition are defined in the present and that, furthermore, heritage is in fact more concerned with meanings than with the material artefacts themselves (Ashworth and Graham 2005). Within this understanding of heritage, the fluidity of what is worthy of conservation is fundamental, indicating that the values and morals of people determine what is to be conserved. Heritage is capable of being interpreted differently within any one culture at any one time, as well as between cultures and through time. (Ashworth and Graham 2005: 4) ?Cultural heritage is a group of inheritances. Heritage itself is an inheritance. Something we have inherited from generation to generation. The cultural heritage can be a group of things or elements that are tangible or intangible. In Mozambique Island we?ve got many types of Heritage: we?ve got the tangible part, the part that we can see, through archaeology, or historical buildings that need to be conserved, we?ve got monuments. And this heritage in Mozambique Island has been left by people of different origins, therefore becoming World Heritage. Then we have intangible heritage: what we know, our knowledge. Sheikh Amud, for example, that man was part of our heritage. He left much knowledge to us, being able to give us oral history, which is intangible. He told us what the Arab culture was like, he told us of the Arabs that came through here, and he became a great sheikh through his spiritual work. And all of this is part of intangible heritage. Something remained after his death, in our subconscious, in our memory. But there is also literature, and imaginations and we need to consider all of these, value them and conserve them.? Cristina District Director for Education, Youth and Technology In this regard, heritage becomes diverse, and a product of different knowledge, producing different heritages, the contents and meanings of which change through time and across space. In light of this, it becomes clear that we, as individuals, create the heritage that we require to manage for a range of purposes defined by the needs and demands of our present societies (Ashworth and Graham 2005), which in turn are informed by a vast range of complexities, according to our specific and very unique circumstances ? from geographical, to social, medical, religious, environmental or political, amongst many others. The idea that heritage is a result of a conscious appropriation of a thing, for the perceived betterment of individuals? lives is a key understanding in this report, as it sustains my argument about the need to understand individuals complexities in their locations, to comprehensively (as much as possible) understand why individuals appropriate their heritage and how. ?Heritage are the things, or infrastructures, or houses that were built a while back, by the population that came through here, that is heritage. What those people left behind ? I think that?s world heritage.? Martinho Carola and Manuel At?pore Secretaries of Neighbourhood It is safe to say that the value attributed to artefacts, buildings or places ?rests less in their intrinsic merit than in a complex array of contemporary values, demands and even moralities? (Ashworth and Graham 2005: 7). As such, heritage can be visualised as a resource but simultaneously, many times over. Clearly, it is an economic resource, one exploited everywhere as a primary component of strategies to promote tourism, economic development and rural and urban regeneration. But heritage is also knowledge, a cultural product and a political resource and thus possesses a crucial socio-political function. Thus 33 ?Mozambique Island is a ruin city ? it suffers from ruins. That?s why it became heritage. And also because there are tourists visiting from every nation ? there is no racial discrimination.? Abacar Faqui Amuri, Momade Abdul Amisse, Ussaine Ossane, Alfane Pilale, Abudo Swal? Abudo Municipality Secretaries of Neighbourhood; Photographed in front of the Museum 34 heritage is accompanied by a complex and often conflicting array of identifications and potential conflicts, not least when heritage places and objects are involved in issues of legitimisation of power structures (Ashworth and Graham 2005: 7). In what concerns the tourism industry and its relationship with heritage, Walsh (1992) explains that the expansion of heritage during the late 1970s and 1980s was not only a response to a perceived need for the past during a period when the rigours of (post-)modern life eroded a sense of history or rootedness, but also should be considered as a product of the expansion of the wider leisure and tourism services sector, and an articulation of a service-class culture. The heritage industry does not exist in a vacuum ? it responds to particular social, economic and political needs to uphold values and objects of the past, in a global era that is becoming more and more service-oriented towards tourism. It is of course arguable that the heritagisation of space can help maintain an identity of place, rather than solely resulting in a sense of placelessness or homogenisation. This can happen through the emphasis on historical characteristics which stand as metaphors for that place. While the preservation of such images may be all the more important as local industries and communities are destroyed, it may be however, that only safe and selected images will be preserved, and the history of a place will be neglected, while the heritage, over subsequent generations, helps to construct an image of place, which is based on superficialities. (Walsh 1992: 139). In looking at heritage as an economic resource within the tourism industry, it becomes clear that, economic restructuring has led to the increasing abstraction of the characteristics of certain spaces, the emphasis on the differences that a space possesses in terms of resources and labour force. This abstraction has become more refined and intense to the point where ?the active production of places with special qualities becomes an important stake in spatial competition between localities, cities, regions and nations? (Harvey 1989: 295). Capital can occupy spaces as access is increased through improved communications. As spaces compete with one another, they must attempt to promote an image, an attractive marketing surface, which will lure the multinational to their particular place (Walsh 1992: 136). The role of heritage in this process is undeniable. Beautification, through the heritagisation of space is one of the mechanisms that can be employed to attract capital (Walsh 1992: 136). ?Mozambique Island is a ruin city ? it suffers of ruins. That?s why is became heritage. And also because there are tourists visiting from every nation ? there is no racial discrimination.? Abacar Faqui Amuri, Momade Abdul Amisse, Ussaine Ossane, Alfane Pilale, Abudo Swal? Abudo Municipality Neighbourhood Secretaries The fact that heritage is subject to individuals? senses of time and place makes it contested along several different axis ? the temporal, the spatial, the cultural/economic and the public/private. In addition to the issue of contestations and difference in what individuals want to conserve, another issue evolves from the need to conserve heritage as a static thing. The heritage display, with its denial of process, and its emphasis on the synchronous spectacle, removes any idea of change through time. The spectacle represents the isolated event; we are removed from history. (Walsh 1992: 137) Ashworth and Graham (2005) offer that ?heritage is the medium through which senses of place are created from senses of time. However, the 35 processes are contested ? and inevitably so ? because of their plurality and the continuous interplay of the official/unofficial and insider/outsider dichotomies that characterise every single manifestation of heritage? (Ashworth and Graham 2005: 11). Heritage ?assumes a demand oriented approach in which the questions of selection are answered in terms of the demands of the consumer not the nature of the object being preserved? (Ashworth, 1991: 3 in Kuipers 2005: 206). This signifies that selection criteria with respect to the object should not so much be based on its intrinsic qualities, such as age, beauty, or historical importance, but more on the needs of the market that are extrinsic to the object (Kuipers 2005). Graham et al. (2000: 2) defined heritage as ?the contemporary use of the past, based on the present needs of people?, and argue that from this point of view an object does not per se need to be ?historically correct, intrinsically authentic, innately valuable or qualitatively worthy?. If people in the present are the creators of heritage, and not merely passive transmitters or receivers of it, then the present created the heritage it requires and manages for a range of contemporary purposes? (Graham et al., 2000: 2). They interpret heritage as a concept of meaning rather than artefact, that ensures it is a field of social conflict and tension, carrying differing and incompatible meanings simultaneously (Kuipers 2005: 206). From here it becomes clear that one should not be concerned with whether one piece of heritage is historically more correct, intrinsically authentic, innately valuable or qualitatively more worthy than another, if people in the present are the creators of heritage, and not merely passive receivers or transmitters of it, then the present creates the heritage it requires and manages it for a range of contemporary purposes (Graham et al. 2000: 2). Once again, the concept of appropriation according to the needs to individuals becomes clear to be the driving force behind how and why heritage is conserved. In appreciating that conflict arises around heritage according to whom and with what perspective one looks at it, clarity arises around the various facets that heritage can have as economic, cultural, religious, political or geographical resources. Heritage fulfils several inherently opposing uses and carries conflicting meanings simultaneously (Graham et al. 2000: 3). In light of this argument, Graham et al. propose that heritage is both a cultural and economic good and commodified as such (2000: 5). In most existing writings about heritage I read, the dichotomy between heritage as a cultural or as an economic resource is exacerbated. I would propose the other dimensions of heritage, such as the religious, political or geographical, are considered potentially as important as each other. I believe that this is fundamental for allowing one to understand the dimensions that heritage has in the different localities and social situations. Furthermore, Graham et al (2000) argue that as knowledges about heritage are constructed according to particular social and intellectual circumstances, in specific times in which its meanings can be altered as texts are re-read in changing times, circumstances and constructs of place and scale, and consequently, these knowledges become fields of contestations. Although I agree with this argument in its full, from my experience in the field, it has become clear to me that the lack of an attribution of meaning to heritage by some also contributes to dissonance and contestation. In this manner, I suggest that it is not only the existence of two or more different meanings that can result in contestation, but the non-existence of attributed and constructed meanings can equally conflict with the existence of this, and this fact should be disregarded or ignored. 36 In itself, the concept of heritage can also be perceived as dangerous, for its frequently ?nationalist, exclusive, sexist, elitist and backward-looking? tendencies (Howard 2003:4). Heritage exists in a platform of conflict, often being the target of conflict, or creating it, as individuals fight over its management, ownership and possible outcomes stemming from it. Landscape or museum are characterised by a complexity of images and a polyvocality of interpretation reflective of a wide array of social differences; none the less, the images portrayed are selected by someone, thereby raising issues of privileging or suppressing particular viewpoints; however, single landscape or museum display can be viewed simultaneously in a variety of ways, which means that ostensibly hegemonic interpretations are open for subversion (Graham et al. 2000: 33). Heritage is inherently a spatial phenomenon, characterised by location, distribution and scale; it is a fundamental part of cultural geography?s concern with signification, representations and identity; and it is an economic instrument in policies of regional and urban development and regenerations (Graham et al. 2000: 256). In addition, and to be further explored, it also functions at a variety of scales in which the same objects may assume ? or be attributed ? different meanings (Ashworth and Graham 2005: 6) Besides existing in relation to people, heritage is also owned by people. In light of this, the concept of ownership becomes a vital concept in the field of heritage. Modern management practice frequently uses ?ownership? to describe the feeling of responsibility for a policy by the group, without which the policy is likely to fail. This usage is very similar in heritage matters, where either groups try to persuade others to take ownership of heritage, or they themselves aspire to such ?ownership?, even, perhaps especially, when there is no legal basis for that ownership (Leask 2006: 7). Furthermore and of key interest in my research report, I introduce the concept of appropriation, strongly associated with that of ownership, as the central means to understand individuals? constructed relationships with heritage and the result of these relationships on heritage itself. Although it is widely assumed that heritage is good, people are also ?capable of obliterating, forgetting and disowning heritage that they would rather be without? (Howard 2001:9). In order to answer my main research question, one of the questions that I aim to answer is how the heritage in Mozambique Island is perceived ? whether it is something positive and benefiting, something negative that the islanders wish to cease existing or something they are oblivious towards, not caring, but liking the idea of. Is the heritage of Mozambique Island an obstacle or a vehicle for a better life? Or is it neither, depending on the knowledge the islanders have of heritage itself? In addition, while heritage is often perceived as worthy of conservation and therefore static in time, I suggest that although conservation and renovation are honourable ways of maintaining the value of heritage, this is not static, on the contrary it gains new meanings throughout time, gaining new significance and value to those who enjoy it. I acknowledge that this is a complex issue. You want to renovate a World Heritage building to its original form given its value, but you want to do it in a way that is useful for those who live in it currently. It is a fine balance. You want to tell the inhabitants of Macuti Town to maintain their macuti roofs (for the sake of its World Heritage significance) but what about the cost 37 involved in maintaining them properly when compared to having corrugated iron, which is safer and brings about a sense of social and economic accomplishment in their society? The central preoccupation should be in finding new solutions that allow for the integrity of a heritage building or thing to be maintained, while useful and beneficial for those who surround it. But, due to the above said and what I present below, this is not simple. It involves the profound and intricate understanding of the complexities of heritage in a particular location, as well as macro and micro conditions that allow for the conservation of heritage in ways that are positive for those involved. Even after a few months of research, and several more of analysing and thinking about this, I am not sure if there is a solution to maintaining the heritage of Mozambique Island in a positive way for its islanders, without in many ways impacting on their lives, in ways that they might perceive or feel as negative ? but that will be the focus of further discussion below. I now move to the analysis of literature of World Heritage, which brings a different complexity to the concept of heritage, and to the object or landscape that has been attributed this status, as is the case of Mozambique Island. * 3.2 Origins and Development of World Heritage Memory is vital to creativity: that holds true for individuals and for peoples, who find in their heritage ? natural and cultural, tangible and intangible ? the key to their identity and the source of their inspiration (UNESCO, 2005a in Millar 2006: 34). World Heritage is considered to be the heritage that is worth conserving for the sake of all humanity, given the intrinsic value it holds, and the meaning the people give to it in their sense of historical and present identity. This notion of a ?heritage for all humanity? was borne out of a Convention that came into force in 1977, after its ratification by twenty countries (Cleere in Leask 2006: foreword). Its first years were characterised by enthusiasm, while also lacking coherence in policy-making. Cleere explains that, cultural and natural properties were nominated to be evaluated in a somewhat ad hoc fashion by the two Advisory Bodies to the World Heritage Committee, and the World Heritage List gradually grew. In the Convention the sole criterion for inscription on the List is ?outstanding universal value?, a noble phrase but one that proved almost impossible to define, as a result of which ten more detailed criteria were painfully evolved (in Leask 2006: foreword). The 1977 Unesco World Heritage Convention was introduced to preserve the world?s ?most outstanding? heritage sites in the built or natural environment for the benefit of all humanity now and into an undetermined future. In light of this, there are two different perspectives into what should be awarded World Heritage Status. While some are of the opinion that the World Heritage List should thus comprise the best heritage sites, selected on their intrinsic merit, conserved and managed in a way that satisfied the aims of preserving for the very humanity in whose name they have been designated (Ashworth and van der Aa 2006: 148), others carry the stance that the meaning attributed to heritage is the basis for its value. According to Unesco (2002), World heritage status is only rewarded to those sites that are of ?outstanding universal value?. As a product of this broad concept, and perhaps also, an eagerness of awarding the status together with the idealism of conservation, 38 ?Here the whole population lives from the sea. The factory here is the sea, the ocean.? Mussagi Fakir Imam of first mosque of Mozambique; Photographed inside his mosque 39 by 1994 the World Heritage List had grown in an uncontrolled manner to more than 400, and the Committee recognised that a more systematic approach was needed. This resulted in Global Strategy which has been striving to ensure a more equitable and logical representation of the heritage of outstanding universal value, both geographically and thematically ? so far, it has been admitted, with only limited success (Cleere in Leask 2006: foreword). According to Cleere (in Leask 2006: foreword), nonetheless, the most significant development in the Convention over the past two decades has been related, not to its representative nature but rather, to the establishment of standards and criteria for the management, presentation and promotion of World Heritage Sites. This is a crucial point, as it created a sense of uniformity in choice, as well as imposed a certain pressure related to the upkeep of the World Heritage Status. At this point, I would like to introduce ICOMOS, the International Council on Monuments and Sites. This is the advisory body for Unesco on issues concerning the world cultural heritage, in particular the evaluation of monuments and sites that have been places on the World Heritage List or are under consideration for listing. ICOMOS is committed to preservation of our heritage worldwide, wherever monuments, sites or cultural landscapes that are defined by historic buildings are affected. According to the preamble of the Necine Chaster (1964), which is considered a founding document for ICOMOS, the preservation of the authentic material evidence of our history is at stake: ?Imbued with a message from the past, the historic monuments of generations of people remain to the present day as living witnesses of their age-old traditions. People are becoming more and more conscious of the unity of human values and regard ancient monuments as common heritage. The common responsibility to safeguard them for future generations is recognised. It is our duty to hand them on in the full richness of their authenticity.? (Michael Petzet; ICOMOS 2000: 9) Interestingly, currently, no property is now inscribed on the List unless it can show evidence that it has ?an appropriate management plan or other documented management system which should specify how the outstanding universal value of a property should be preserved, preferably through participatory means? (Operational Guidelines for the Implementation of the World Heritage Convention, 225, para. 108)15. Cleere, who was the World Heritage Committee Head from 1992 to 2002, claims that ?the scrutiny of these systems by the two Advisory Bodies is now rigorous, and the inscription of a number of important sites has been deferred to await the preparation and implementation of a suitable plan.? In other words, the award is no longer seen as a means in itself. It has been recognised that together with its award, World Heritage status can only be awarded to sites that also have a management plan that can easily be operationalised. The key aim of the World Heritage Convention is to conserve cultural and natural heritage resources, but one ends up wondering if the present structure of the WHC and associated processes actually do this? According to IUCN (2004) and ICOMOS (2004) the World Heritage Convention is indeed an effective 15 As mentioned in Chapter 1, Mozambique Island received a notification in 2006, that if by February 2007 the government did not show the existence of a management plan for the Island, the Island would fall into the Endangered List, with the possibility of losing the status all together in future. In August 2008, UNESCO Mozambique received another notification regarding Mozambique Island moving to the List of Endangered World Heritage Sites, given that the Management Plan was not yet in place. Currently, this Management Plan is being finalised. Whether there will systems in place to implement the Management Plan is something that the National Government as well as UNESCO need to take a close look at, together with other strategies that propel the islanders to start conserving, restoring and managing their heritage by their own initiative. 40 framework for implementation of conservation strategies (Leask 2006). Nevertheless, it needs better integration of Convention and international, national and regional conservation instruments, to achieve universal membership of Convention and to involve communities. As stated by Barbosa (2005), ?We have a collective responsibility to safeguard our human heritage. This is a ?responsibility, furthermore, that links past, present and future generations in a chain of reciprocity and care, and tourism has a vital role to play in that future? (Leask 2006: 17). Leask (2006) confirms that tourism plays a vital role in the sphere of world heritage throughout the world. There is an increased awareness of the economic importance of heritage conservation, its special role in terms of the much-heralded ?sustainable development? (Michael Petzet; ICOMOS 2000), as well as the economic gain stemming from the tourism industry. World heritage, as it is further discussed, exists in a world of complex flows and relationships, which make its management difficult to grasp and maintain. As with heritage that belongs to an individual or community only, World Heritage is also subject to political, economic and social circumstances. Although it is a thing that is supposed to become World Heritage for its intrinsic value, in reality it does not work like that. That is the main push towards the award by UNESCO, nonetheless, there are always particular perceptions that are influencing the candidate state to choose that particular site. The perceptions of one?s history, and what is of value in the present society in order to maintain a particular identity, influences what becomes World Heritage. In light of this, one cannot disengage the economic dimension of world heritage sites, when discussing them. According to each country?s available funds and cultural policy World Heritage will be less or more attended to. In many countries, not only are the financial means unavailable to guide such developments in the direction of cultural continuity ? so important for the identity of a land ? but the political will is also missing. This is demonstrated, for instance, by the absence of a state preservation organisation with appropriate experts, by the total lack of preservation laws (ICOMOS 2000: 9) or by legal regulations that exist but are not put to use. The ?continuous loss of historic heritage is pre-programmed if there is not a certain amount of public-sector protection in the interest of the general public? (Michael Petzet; ICOMOS 2000: 10). In some countries the tourism industry, ubiquitous in its connection with monuments, historic districts and cultural landscapes, apparently provides the only reason to protect monuments, at least as sightseeing objects. A community- based soft tourism naturally would have its positive effect of preservation. But mass tourism, to which entire cultural landscapes have fallen victim over the last decades, represents as before a danger. It remains a disappointment that, despite the many assurances at countless conferences on the theme of tourism and preservation, there is a lack of commitment by the tourism industry, which by now with its sales in the billions is the most important branch of industry worldwide. The tourism industry exploits the cultural heritage through over-use which is sometimes ruinous, but does not render any serious financial contribution to the protection and preservation of the cultural heritage (Petzet; ICOMOS 2000: 10). Petzet concludes that in the development of an increasingly globalised world that is dominated by the strongest economic forces, the tendency to make all aspects of life uniform represents an obvious risk factor for the historic heritage (2000: 10). He maintains that with the new global ?lifestyle?, attitudes to historic evidence of the past naturally also change, although there is hope that in some places this very 41 globalisation is causing a renewed consciousness of the significance of the monuments that embody regional and national identity (Petzet 2000: 10). This trend can also be identified for artistic and craftsman?s traditions, out of which the historic heritage has developed in the course of centuries. Nevertheless, as I will further identify in relation to the renovation of houses in Macuti Town, the mass products of the industrial society that are distributed world-wide remain a tremendous threat because they continue to displace the historical techniques of craftsman, and then prevent the possibility of repair with authentic material techniques that are so critical for preservation (Michael Petzet; ICOMOS 2000: 10). Millar (2006) speaks about how communities are often keen to present their World heritage Sites to visitors or to exploit them as tourism resources in the anticipation of economic gain. She adds that they are also actively protecting their own privacy and lifestyles, which can be overwhelmed during peak tourism seasons. It is common that at both natural and cultural World Heritage Sites local people are often the tour guides and interpreters. At others they are the guardian and purveyors of the intangible heritage in the form of priests, musicians, dancers, storytellers, craftspeople, demonstrators, cooks and farmers or gardeners (Millar 2006: 51). The quality of the tourism experience is greatly enhanced if members of the local community are engaged as key stakeholders and encouraged to welcome visitors. The confidence of communities to invite strangers to join in their they local festivals held within the boundaries of a WHS often means that they can benefit directly from the financial rewards tourism brings. In addition, genuine community support can ensure that the promotional images of the destination presented to the outside world are those actually experienced by the visitors as they interact with local people during their visit (Millar 2006: 51). Although World Heritage is supposed to have all individuals of world as its stakeholders, Millar (2006) affirms that, in practice, until recently, a limited number of stakeholders ? governments, conservation experts and local authorities ? were involved in the process (Millar 2006: 34). The issue of responsibility arises over and over again. Who should be maintaining World Heritage for the future? The focus of responsibilities concerning the protection and conservation of World Heritage is shifting from a forum of conservation experts and national and local government representatives to a partnership approach involving an expanded list of local and regional stakeholders covering a wide spectrum of interest located both inside and outside of the boundaries and buffer zones of a WHS. These stakeholders include private sector businesses, developers, owners, non- governmental organisations (NGOs) and community groups (see paragraphs 39 & 40 Operational Guidelines for the Implementation of the World Heritage Convention, Unesco 2003 in Millar 2006: 39). The struggle around responsibility is partly the result of the various scales in which World Heritage Sites exist. Their localism coexists with a universal scale, complicating roles, duties and responsibilities. In light of this, the World Heritage Committee acknowledges that there must be a link between universal and local values for a World Heritage Site to have a sustainable future. The ambition for world ownership of the World?s special and diverse natural and cultural heritage remains strong. While what makes the concept of World Heritage exceptional is its universal application, I wonder to what extent we can actually believe that World Heritage Sites belong to all the peoples of the world irrespective of the territory on which they are located? (Unesco 2005b in Millar 2006: 39). I agree with Millar (2006) that such idealistic rhetoric, such global aspirations can create problems when they are transposed into the reality of the local context on the ground. If, ?in fact WHS status encourages indiscriminate mass tourism, 42 compromises authenticity, distorts traditional values, gives rise to the need for congestion management at ?honeypot? tourist destinations and thereby creates a need for additional conservation management, then inscription ? however well intended ? is problematic.? Although this report does not seek to answer whether World Heritage Sites should exist or not, the extent to which this is beneficial for the people of Mozambique Island, has been a question that followed me throughout my research. It is possible that world heritage is not what is best for this island, but given that the Government of Mozambique as well as Unesco have found it to be in the interest of the world population to nominate this a World Heritage Site worthy of conservation and maintenance, then that is what needs to be taken as the reality of the island, as decided by those who have authority over it. If the number of World Heritage Sites in the developing world increases ? as it rightly should ? the cost of their upkeep in terms of conservation and management has to be addressed. The local community who live in or near a World Heritage Site and visitors arriving as tourists become the most significant stakeholders in this new arena. They need to be trained and nurtured (Millar 2006: 43-44). The implementation of the World Heritage Convention is in itself problematic given the regulatory dimensions that it has. Within a context of independent nation-states, international law cannot be enforced in the same manner as domestic law, because nations can rarely be compelled to perform their legal obligations. Indeed van der Aa (2005) notes that, while most Word Heritage Sites have some degree of local or national legal protection, designation does not necessarily lead to an increase in legal protections under domestic law (Hall 2006: 24). For further insight into the World Heritage Convention and its workings, read Hall (2006). Upon this brief conversation around World Heritage, I conclude upfront that Unesco has a na?ve understanding of heritage, that its regulations are too static and that the fact that World Heritage exists in the complex political geographic sites cannot continue to be ignored. The following sections aim to give further insight into theoretical and practical discussions of World Heritage. Conservation, maintenance and management of World Heritage are explored, followed by issues of identity, space and ownership, as well as tourism. One of the things that struck me when I first came across World Heritage was the paradoxical relation between the globally dispersed and diverse phenomena and the idea that they, in spite of all disparities, had something in common, and were constitutive parts of a distinct, universal and categorical entity, i.e. the World Heritage of humankind (Turtinen 2000: 8). * 3.3 Identity, Place, Ownership, Tourism and Scale in the Context of World Heritage If individuals create place identities, then obviously different people, at different times, for different reasons, create different narratives of belonging; place images are thus user determined, polysemic and unstable (Ashworth and Graham 2005: 3) Identity, place and ownership of these, are key social concepts throughout my argument. In my argument, individuals? sense of space, place and identity in relation to World Heritage has a dialectical relationship with their appropriation of World Heritage. While the said dialectic relationship is further explored in 43 section 3.3, this section presents the concepts of place and identity within the context of World Heritage. It explores the concepts within the field of Human Geography and then moves to engage with them in World Heritage Sites. Why are these concepts important? What do they reflect? How can we read them? What are they saying in terms of World Heritage? Space plays a fundamental role in our identity formation. The access we have to private and to public spaces determines and influences our identity construction, as it informs our relationships with others, the built and natural environments and ourselves. Sandercock (1997) maintains that one?s access to space, determines one?s sense of citizenship. She further argues that the act of feeling ownership towards space influences the manner in which we relate to that space, how we look after it, how we use it, how we think of it. In this line of thought, I argue that unless the residents of a particular location appropriate the space they live in, according to the global/regional understandings of what that space means, how it is to be utilised and maintained, then there will be inadequacies of management, which moreover will have consequences at identity level. In parallel, the residents have to have access to tools of maintenance, so as to perform their tasks as custodians of a place. Let?s unpack these three concepts: place, identity and ownership, always in relation to the concept of appropriation. * Space/Place Places should be considered as spaces which are continually experiencing processes which occur through time, processes which are not, and never have been, static. (Walsh 1992: 150) The concepts of space and time have changed radically throughout the last century, and come to easily manifest the sociological theory underpinning them. The abstract concepts have been the target of much theoretical work and debate. Space as place, time as a continuous progressive thing. Space as distance, geographical or emotional, time as random moments in reality. Space has legislative, geographical, Figures 15 and 16: My young friends posing for the camera, Stone Town 44 political social, religious, economic, emotional, spiritual spheres. It can be understood through these various platforms, acquiring different meanings and being interpreted accordingly. Therefore, space as a concept is difficult and complex to pin down. My own definition of space is that it is a subjective, dynamic concept that is informed by the societal beliefs and conceptions of those who experience it. Space is personal, and it is communal, and therefore its definitions are also personal and communal; it relates to one?s relationship with one?s immediate and extended environment, that being emotional, physical or rational. Currently, the world is divided into nation-states that have constitutional power over their geographical territory, as well as over their residents. The legitimacy of a state?s power occurs through different means, the most popular being the idea of democracy ? where the citizens of a country have the right to vote for their government and their leader. Equally, every country has a different political and governmental system, determined by the political and social ideology held by the ruling party, which consequently determines international politics and, economic and social policies. That to say that every location is different and exists under different and specific laws and regulations, has particular relationships with other locations, it is determined by the cultural practices of those who live in it, as well as determining these practices according to the historical and current use of the environment. Geographically then, a place exists on a map and can easily be identified and pinpointed. Nevertheless, space, differently from place, exists between people; its existence is subjective, and individuals and communities are constantly engaging in the (re)constitution of it. According to Carter et al. (1993, xii) ?place is space to which meaning has been ascribed? (Kuipers 2005: 207). While space identifies something that can exist in a more abstract realm, place generally relates to an existing and recognised physicality. According to Walsh (1992) places can be perceived as localities, which are at the same time both acting on, and being acted upon by, other places. ?It is therefore important that people realise that their places are important, and can influence institutions, including multinational capital. However, for all of this to be appreciated, it is necessary that people come to terms with the processes that have affected, and continue to affect, their place? (Walsh 1992: 149). Walsh (1992) reminds me of the importance of the various factors and actors that come into play in the construction of places, and of [?] an appreciation of how places change through time and how each place is linked to a multiplicity of other places and influences, and thus situated within temporal and spatial contexts which are potentially infinite. Any project concerned with reconstructing a sense of place must be prepared to consider the definitions of the temporal and spatial contexts which are important to the development of different phenomena within places. (Walsh 1992: 153) Each person assimilates and understands place differently, giving birth to the infinite notions and relationships with space. For the sake of my research, I define space as a subjective interpretation of place that has to do with utility, emotion and memory. Harvey (1996) suggests the ways in which social conceptions of space and time are constructed in social processes and simultaneously become objectified as pervasive ?facts of nature? (1996: 211) that regulate social practices. In addition, it has become clear, through the works of Foucault and Lebebvre that ?space more than time hides things from 45 us, that the demystification of spatiality and its veiled instrumentality of power is key to making practical, political and theoretical sense of the contemporary era? (Soja 1989: 61 in Walsh 1992: 149). In terms of the longevity of a place, it seems logical that one can never visit the same place more than once as it is continually developing through time. Locations are continually changing, and one?s perceived present is always a form of pastness (Walsh 1992). On the other hand, although places are constant in a process of becoming, developing a sense of place is crucial if people are to flourish and enjoy living in a world which becomes more and more complex, and subject to the whims of extensive multinational companies and corporations over which they have no control (Walsh 1992: 150). * Identity Identity is the manner in which one understands oneself, and how one portrays oneself to others. Our sense of identity is informed by our socialisation, personality and by our political, religious, economic and social surrounding environment, therefore being a social construct that furthermore is in constant reshaping through the relationships that actors establish with each other, creating networks and disposing them. In that way, our identity is equally informed by the place in which we live, and the manners in which we use the space, how we relate to it, as well as the function it plays in our lives and our memory of our lives. With regards to the notion of nation-state, our identity is nowadays firmly grounded on ideas of citizenship. Nonetheless, to be a citizen of a country, or on a small scale, of a village, does not only mean to inhabit a specific geographical place; it also means to have access to public and private space in that place, which determines one?s feeling of belonging. One needs to feel ownership of space, in order to feel like one totally belongs, and in that manner, one will have a better ability to maintain. Acting as one means of representing the past, heritage provides meaning to human existence by conveying the ideas of timeless values and unbroken lineages that underpin identity (Graham et al. 2000: 41). Identity in the context of heritage becomes an interesting concept to look at. Graham et al. conclude that the cement binding these three elements (people, heritage and places) together is a process of identification in which people identify with places because these places have a unique character or perceived identity (2000: 183). In that way, heritage, the means by which people in a present associate themselves with people in the past, is a major instrument in the creation of identity (Graham et al. 2000: 183). Graham et al. (2000) further argue that identity is a major motive for the creation of heritage, and that therefore it is no surprise that heritage is the principal instrument for shaping distinctive local representations of place, which can be exploited for external promotions as well as in strengthening the identification of inhabitants with their localities (Graham et al. 2000: 204). It is my understanding, that the relationship between heritage and identity is not as linear. In the case of heritage being imposed on a community, then the identity of the residents of a World Heritage Site does not necessarily become strengthened; in fact, it might be that for years this status does not inform the inhabitants? sense of identity in any manner. As Rosa (1995: 88) argues, identity is ?how we make sense of ourselves? and 46 sometimes the meanings given to a place may be so strong that they become a central part of the identity of the people experiencing them (in Kuipers 2005: 206), but should the case be that the meaning of World Heritage in Mozambique Island is not that strong, then it becomes clear why it would be that the islanders? sense of identity is not informed accordingly. ?Are popular sense of place significantly different from official ones or can the latter only ever be an aggregate and expression of the former? The imposition of heritage designations alters the character of a building or area, which thus becomes monumental and historic with potential consequences for the sense of place held by insiders and outsiders. If there is a collective sense of place, then where are the place identities of those who ? for whatever reasons ? feel themselves to be ignored, alienated and marginalised? (Ashworth and Graham 2005: 153). The questions posed by Ashworth and Graham (2005) are fundamental in trying to perceive the manner in which identity is determined by the imposition of heritage. As it can be read in the discussion of the findings of this research report, the lack of participation ? marginalisation from decision-making, together with low quality of life experience by the islanders, does not make much room for the World Heritage of Mozambique Island to be substantially determinant in their identity formation. * Place Identity & Heritage Place identity is a social construct. It is not ?something out there, waiting to be discovered?. It is not an objective or natural ?given?, but something that is attributed to a place by people. We refer to the process of attributing identity to a place as the construction of place identity. The attribution process may take time. This means that an identity evolves continually and consists of several chronological ?layers?. It is a social construct that embodies elements from the past and the present in the desired situation. Place identity is based on the characteristics of the place. It is not a random process. Actors attribute an identity in order to achieve certain implicitly or explicitly stated goals. The chosen identity depends on the goals of the actor in question (Huigen and Meijering 2005: 21). In their description of place identity Huigen and Meijering (2005) emphasise the subjectivity and complexity involved in its construction. For these authors, place identity is, to a large extent, based in the past, as its characteristics were perceived in the past; it is also debatable, given that different actors attribute a different identity to a place; and place identity is attributed within, and characterised by, a particular context (Huigen and Meijering 2005: 22). I should add, that I believe that in the context of World Heritage, as stated before, an outside body can attribute place identity. Huigen and Meijering (2005) further explain that identity attribution is a continuing process in which new actors establish themselves and goals and ideas change, according to how the context within which the actors are located changes. The production of place is intrinsic to the conduct and constitutions of social life (Gregory 1994); place identities are fluid and dynamic (Massey 1994) although this does not imply some form of translation to the argument that the rapid speeding up of time and space is dissolving any sense of place identity at all; there exists a hybridity of identities in which the representations of places is both constituted by, and legitimates, social power relationships (Rose 1994); and places are invested with the permanence necessary for them to become loci of institutionalised power (Harvey 1996 in Graham et al. 2000: 80). 47 Graham et al?s (2000) summary of how the production of place comes to be and what it entails demonstrates that the existence of hybrid identities is a fundamental concept in understanding place in relation to identity, and therefore in the context of heritage. The various layers that a place upholds, determines and are determined by the different influences that the individuals that visit and live in that place bring upon their everyday life. Inevitably, tension and dissonances arises from these differences in meaning, value attributed and benefit felt by each individual or a group. Ashworth and Graham (2005) point out that tensions about place identities arise between the collective and the individual and between the official and the unofficial. These authors insightfully add that the ?paradox is that most of the attention paid by policy-makers and academic observers to heritage, and much cultural expression and performance in general, focuses upon the collective and the official? (Ashworth and Graham 2005: 87). Nonetheless, an individual?s sense of the past derives most strongly from the mundane minutiae of personal and family life experiences, over which official agencies and their policies have no direct cognizance or influence. Individual memory, therefore, may be more important than any postulated collective memory in determining the self-identification of the individual with the group or with a sense of place (Ashworth and Graham 2005: 87). Another issue that Ashworth and Graham (2005) raise that is relevant to this research report, is that the dominance of the past, raises the twin dangers of ?creating an identity based upon social and cultural elements that are already obsolete and largely irrelevant to the daily way of life of most locals, while also possibly fossilising past or present patterns in a way that will inhibit future change? (2005: 222). Ashworth and Larkham (1994: 7) correctly add to this definition that heritage not only ?has a proven track record of outstanding success in formulating and reinforcing place-identities?, but also that this is ?in support of particular state entities?. This emphasis is important, as ?identities are never unified and, in late modern times, increasingly fragmented and fractured; never singular but multiple? (Hall 1996: 3). In other words, the selected heritage only shows the identity that ?belongs? to the community that selected it. Van der Aa poignantly asks if the heritage of the unrepresented or underrepresented population groups will also be selected (2005: 136). In a conclusive manner it is worth reiterating that the relationship between heritage, identity and place should be seen as intensely heterogeneous and full of nuances and ambiguities. As Graham et al, (2000) put it ?hybridity is all, not least because of the increasingly complicated interconnections of a globalising world, itself a product of the modern era, but hybridity and complexity are not synonyms for incoherence. Place remains a fundamental icon of identity but one individual self identifies with multiple layers of place and with other manifestations of identity, not necessarily spatially defined (Graham et al. 2000: 90). Places consist of multiple layerings of hybrid senses of belonging (Graham et al. 2000), and a dynamic sense of place is mirrored in heritage landscapes that carry a multiplicity of meanings and significations, and must be interpreted according to the various complexities that are to be found in a place in which people inhabit. Heritage mirrors individuals and groups identities, but there is space for exception, for 48 ?This island used to be full of beauty. It was a beautiful island. It smelt so well. It was luxurious; it was a pleasure to be in.? Khalifas Photographed in the entrance of the Municipal Council 49 difference, such as in the case of heritage statuses that are awarded by outside bodies. Graham et al. (2000) explain that, all heritage is someone?s heritage and inevitably not someone else?s. Heritage cannot exist as a universal absolute. Because it is what and where we say it is then one person?s heritage is the disinheritance of another. Moreover, this designation, and the identity of those who recognise or appropriate it, and those who do not or cannot, is in itself subject to the shifting crosscurrents of time. Heritage dissonance can be defined as the mismatch between heritage and people, in space and time. It is caused by movements or other changes in heritage and by migration or other changes in people, translations which characteristically involve how heritage is perceived and what value systems are filtering those perceptions. The most pervasive source of heritage dissonance lies in the fundamental diversity of societies (Graham et al. 2000: 93). * Ownership of Heritage Ownership towards space, as previously mentioned, is directly related to the access one has to it, the degree of utility it has in our lives, as well as, the means we have to take care of it (Sandercock 1997). The notion of ownership is closely related to that of appropriation ? they both entail the feeling from oneself, that something or someone belongs to us; the feeling of possession. The element of possession might be physical in consistency, like an object, a house, a plot, a person, an animal; and/or it can be emotional, like a relationship, pain, love or friendship. I argue that everything we have ownership towards has physical and emotional elements, becoming an actor in itself with which we construct a relationship. In that manner, ownership of a house for instance, does not solely relate to the physicality of that space, including its walls, ceiling and windows, but also to the emotionality of that space, whether this is in form of memories, dreams or hopes. The Joseph Rowntree Foundation, through a range of studies, discovered that real and imagined barriers had both to be overcome if disadvantaged neighbourhoods were to be healed. ?The studies found both physical barriers, such as lack of adequate transport, and psychological barriers to reconnecting disadvantaged neighbourhoods to the urban areas of which they are part? (Jones 2005: 250). Jones (2005) argues that creating a sense of ?ownership? of public and community spaces is a pre-condition of successful use, care and maintenance. Worpole (2003) further ascertains that the key stakeholders in a secure public realm are the public themselves including children and young people, and their involvement at all levels is essential. * Tourism & Heritage Tourism becomes a central activity in the networks of World Heritage. It moves it, and it is moved by it. Past is ?continually being restored, and reconstructed, packaged, interpreted and displayed? and where ?tourists are offered wide range of heritage products? (Robinson et al. 2000: v). It is agreed that heritage has increasingly been commodified for touristic consumption where, through further processing and packaging, it is now more accessible, popular, entertaining and educational than ever before (Fyall and Rakic 2006: 164). 50 It has become apparent that leisure tourism, one of the major trends in tourism this decade, has been a move away from the traditional elements of tourism ? scenery, sun, two weeks a year ? towards urban, heritage-based short break tourism. This trend has brought tourism in to the forefront of regeneration and job-creation projects (Walsh 1992: 117). Tourism is an integral part of (post-)modern time-space compression and machinations of capital. The ?shrinking? of the world, and the concomitant expansion in communication and travel networks, laid the foundations for yet another industry, the tourism industry. Tourism was never really confined to travel in just one?s country. The Grand Tour was an early form of international tourism: ?between 1600 and 1800, treatises on travel shifted from a scholastic emphasis on touring as an opportunity for discourse, to travel as eyewitness observation (Urry 1990: 4 in Walsh 1992: 118). Nowadays, people seek to observe how others live, and how others lived. Heritage sites have become a target of the tourism industry, deeply impacting the networks and rhythms of the visited localities. In cultural World Heritage Sites, it is often the case that locals themselves are asked to take part in staged authenticity for tourists. In some instances, while tourists are granted the privilege of moving around the living and working locality in which the real inhabitants perform for them (Featherstone 1992), these appropriate staged identities, from which they benefit in other ways. Although tourism always has negative impacts on the locality visited, the positive impacts cannot be overlooked. For some cultural movements tourism may cease to be seen as a resource, but may be identified as a major element in the process which is destroying localism and ethnic identities (Featherstone 1992: 69). The positive impacts are especially present when tourism is managed in integrated participatory ways. Sustainable tourism permits the engagement of the host community in all aspects of its planning and managing. As sites where the managed engagement between the host and the visitor communities is strongest, visitor management is also the most successful (Millar 2006: 50). Accordingly, as Fyall and Rakic (2006) remind us, even though there are positive impacts from tourism, the people who live in World Heritage Sites are not always the ones who benefit (Bandarin, 2005: v in Fyall and Rakic 2006: 165). World Heritage Sites can have a variety of interests to offer to tourists coming from all over the world. The unique value of what is on offer becomes the key motive, and therefore, those who benefit from the growing tourism industry, work hard to maintain the unique value of their locality. In Mozambique Island, it became apparent throughout my fieldwork, as later discussed, that the lack of direct benefits felt by the islanders from this industry plus the lack of awareness that the tourists come to see a World Heritage Site, does not serve as a motivation to conserve and restore this World Heritage Site. Perhaps it is safe, and realist, to say that the relationship between tourism and World Heritage is somewhat awkward, when it comes to benefits, identity and how lives and places are altered. McKercher et al. (2005) identified the need for a holistic viewpoint to be adopted, and the need to recognise ?realistic appreciation of the tourism value of the asset, the need to conserve core cultural values and clearly defined roles? (McKencher et al., 2005 in Fyall and Rakic 2006: 162). * 51 Scale & Heritage: Global Status/Local State Scales are constructed, not absolute (Howitt 2003: 124). There remains the multiple layerings of place, a highly complex set of processes occurring at all sorts of scales (Graham et al. 2000: 83). Social relationships are always placed and scaled (Howitt 145). Locations can be understood through a multitude of scales, according to the viewpoint of the observer and that who experiences the reality being studied. While open and dynamic, locations are also complex and specific. They are impacted upon by local and global dynamics, be them political, religious, social or economic. The acute globalisation of the world, and by that I mean the interconnections, in which we live and create our understanding of the world, are constantly being shaped and shaping parallel and coinciding worlds. Individuals and locations do not exist on their own; they relate to worlds of sociality, physicality and spirituality, through which their actions and understandings are in permanent negotiation and reconstruction. The different scales serve as a truly invaluable lens through which we can better grasp the dynamism that makes up who we are. Let?s look at Mozambique Island as an example. We can decide to understand its present form and condition, looking at it as a city in the district of Mozambique Island, as a place where many refugees sought peace during the civil war in Mozambique (1977 ? 1991), as an island in Mozambique, or in Africa even. In increasing the scale, we can observe different factors; we have different viewpoints that lead us to different insights about the present condition of the island now. Similarly, when doing research there are countless scales we could use to study it, which in turn inform the corresponding methods. In this research project it has been crucial for me to acknowledge globalisation, the global, locality and the local. These concepts and perspectives from which to connect the world, and understand its networks allowed me to gain insight into the manner in which cultures change, how the constant flow of information, ideas and practices constantly influences and determines the construction of networks between individuals and places. The idea of appropriation of foreign ideas and practices is the central theoretical standpoint for the analysis of the state of World Heritage of Mozambique Island from the perspective of the islanders. The place where the global becomes local is in the individual choice, when he or she makes the decision to appropriate an idea or a practice that did not belong to his or her world previously, and establish it making it his or her own. I am left to ask: have the islanders appropriated the globalised and universal concept of world heritage, as well as the practices that come with this highly institutionalised status? At the local scale of the tourist-historic city, for example (Ashworth and Tunbridge 1990), management has to reconcile tourist and resident needs for heritage while, at the national scale, the cohesion of the state is usually the chief frame of reference, taking precedence over both regional identities and tourism needs. Internationally, UNESCO, particularly through the medium of World Heritage Sites, pits the ideas of universal heritage values (themselves at times the subject of intractable dissonances) against the self-interest of the various host states, chiefly concerned with national-scale priorities (Graham et al. 2000: 97). One could argue that the subjectivity that scales are informed by corrupts their value. Differently, I believe that it is exactly the subjectivity of one?s own scale and the possibility of scaling others when observing 52 them, which enriches the text about them. And moreover, for the same reasons, limiting one?s understanding to strictly global or local scales, in a dichotomy and razor like denomination, can restrict one?s creativity of thought and of theory. I do acknowledge that this simplification helps compartmentalise reasoning concerning scale and impact. But on the other hand, it hides all the in-betweens and, most of all, it avoids complexity. Analysing or filtering information about people or a place through lenses that do not see the multitude of layers, voices, actors and networks in constant reinvention is useless. Scales are periodically transformed and constructed. We cannot touch scale, or take a picture of it. It?s not easily objectified (Howitt 2003: 140). Howitt (2003) maintains that there is wide consensus amongst human geographers that the social construction of scale affects cultural and political landscapes, which perhaps becomes particularly salient when exploring and theorising on globalisation and localism. I agree with Howitt (2003) that discussing the politics of scale in the framework of global and local becomes a relatively simple matter, and that like all binaries, this one had its limits. Conflating global/economic/general and contrasting it with the local/cultural/specific obscures important dimensions that an alternative approach to scale might bring to critical geopolitical analysis, and responses built from it (Howitt 2003:139). We can thus argue either that the international scale has incorporated and annexed the local scale, or conversely, that localities have become global in their consumption and have thus appropriated the international scale (Graham et al. 2000: 219). One implication of the discipline?s increased awareness of the ?politics of scale? is that those trying to understand, participate in or influence spatial politics, need to conceptualise and analyse interconnections between scales and the simultaneity of those connections. I further argue that a critical geopolitics that engages with the scale politics of power, identity and sustainability offers dispossessed, marginalised and disadvantaged people a better framework for political action across and between multiple scales. Graham et al. (2000) explain that heritage at the local scale is significantly different in content, function and thus management, from nation-state or supra-national heritage. This is important when looking at management of Mozambique Island, and considering the various stakeholders at play, including UNESCO, the National Government, the District Administration, the Municipal Council, amongst others. In this regard, I agree with Graham et al. (2000) that scale itself can be a potent source of heritage dissonance, given that depending on which perspective you have and are involved from, your interests and management style will change and, with all likelihood, greatly differ with those with another perspective. So why am I going on about scale? Well, Mozambique Island, an island off the coast of Mozambique, a country with the majority of its population living below the poverty line, happens to also be, due to its historical context and value, a World Heritage Site. These two realities seem to be strikingly different, inherently distant, but in this case, they inhabit one same geographical location. This highlights the paradox introduced in the first chapter and is used here to shine a light on the discrepancies that the population of the Mozambique Island live: on the one hand so poor, on the other hand residents of a World Heritage Site. Globalisation may instigate or accelerate change in senses of place leading even to the much-feared death of locality but, equally, it may be only the substitution 53 of one place-identity for another at a different scale. The ?global village? remains local in one sense if not another. Similarly the attempt of national governments to support a sense of local identity may of course lead to a standardisation of what is conceived and planned to be local that is itself homogeneous. The local becomes global in its reproduction of the same ?local? features, while conversely ? as is often the case with urban conservation planning, the global may itself be a universalisation of what was originally local. (Ashworth and Graham 2005: 222). The concept of scale draws my attention to the difference between the global and local, and to how these two blend. Management and conservation of World Heritage differs according to scale. And although the island has Universal value, its management still needs to be conducted at a local scale. But what if the locality has no power/knowledge/interest/capacity to manage it for the sake of humanity? Who is then responsible to make it happen? Or furthermore, who is ultimately responsible for it and for the people that inhabit who have a direct impact on its state? * 3.4 Conservation and Management of World Heritage: Theory and Methodologies World heritage, as defined above, is heritage that has been declared of benefit for the living humanity and all the generations to come. In the case of physical and architectural heritage, to this end, conservation and management efforts are of crucial importance. This section explores conservation, restoration and maintenance activities on the one hand, and management actions on the other, in the context of World Heritage, mostly from a theoretical point of view, looking at issues such as lack of resources and designation of responsibilities. * Conservation, Restoration and Maintenance Immovable heritage can only be preserved through conservation, but the decision as to what to conserve depends on values attached to that heritage. It follows, therefore, that every conservation decision is based on values. A problem presents itself, however, due to the nature of these values. Cultural heritage is valued in a number of ways and driven by different motives, principally economic, political, cultural, social, spiritual and aesthetic. Each of these values has varied ideal, ethics and epistemologies. As a result, different ways of valuing have led to different approaches to preserving heritage (Ndoro and Pwiti 2009: 2-3). Conservation entails the act of keeping a thing or an activity in its original state, or close to its original form. Conserving is an active and pre-empted activity that originates in the will and intention to maintain something. Whether it is a piece of furniture, a ritual, a dress or a moral conduct, the conservation of these entails a strategy, conscious or unconscious, individual or communal, formal or informal, visible or invisible. It is my argument, that we conserve that which we think benefits us in some way, whether this is an emotional, spiritual, economic, political or socially perceived benefit; there is an incentive that induces the effort of conservation. The concept of restoration, also important within the context of conservation, relates to a conscious act towards making a practice or a physical object/building be, sound, look or taste as it did previously to the decision of or the event that modified it. Contrary to conservation, where one aims to maintain heritage as 54 is, restoration entails change and modification to what was. In the realm of architectural World Heritage, restoration signifies putting effort together to modifying buildings and urban structures to the original state according to which these were classified World Heritage. Like conservation this is a technical effort that necessitates the input and technical knowledge of trained and dedicated individuals. Both conservation and restoration efforts have the general objective of maintaining the significance and physical integrity, through time and eventual changes, for the benefit of current and future generations. Therefore, adequate protection of heritage places, monuments or sites is required, through all sorts of actions, whether they focus on the heritage itself and on its values by their statutory mandate, or they have an indirect positive impact on it (ICOMOS 2000: 21). During the process of rehabilitation, buildings are endangered by the use of inappropriate methods and technologies when properly trained professional and other preservation specialists are not available at all or in sufficient numbers and preservation know-how is missing (Michael Petzet; ICOMOS 2000: 10). As it can be read further in this research report, the rehabilitation of Mozambique Island, in light of it being a city in a global world, is presently living through the challenge of maintaining its authenticity, while allowing its residents to feel like that are improving their lifestyle ? which in fact is the driving factor in decision making around the conservation and restoration of buildings in Mozambique Island. Conservation, or historic preservation as it is also called, deals with current conditions of heritage places, monuments and sites in order t0 secure their sage transmission to future generations, just as we have received them from our ancestors. But, the reason we care for those places or material objects is usually the intangible meanings and values they carry. Even if this meaning evolves over time, the unchanging physical existence of heritage places, monuments and sites is important to the sequence of generations (ICOMOS 2000: 21). Maintenance signifies the efforts performed to maintain structures that are already in place and in a good state to keep up, especially with regards to the physical environment. Through management strategies the physical and cultural heritage can be maintained in a state that continues to uphold the value that granted it World Heritage status. Maintenance in its original form, as discussed below, is a complex and controversial matter. When it comes to individuals? quality of life, it is not always appropriate to maintain certain physical structures, as this does not necessarily bring an increasingly perceived or actual betterment of their life in its current form. Once again, when referring to the conservation, restoration and maintenance of World Heritage, responsibility becomes the most contentious issue. In addition, one should bear in mind that the cost of maintenance grows in inverted proportion to the decline in the state of the heritage: the worse the condition, the more expensive it becomes to maintain. * Management Actions towards maintaining, conserving or restoring heritage need to be managed by International, National, Regional or Local bodies in order to ensure sustainability and effectiveness towards the attainment of goals carefully designed and implemented by a groups of technically able individuals. The management of a project is not an easy task. Its various facets, actors and networks need the attention of different individuals, who are dedicated to different parts according to their expertise. 55 Management is the act of creating recognised systems that can be applied in the running of networks with the objective of making sure that these networks operate in a coherent, efficient and integrated way, in which each component is responsible for particular contributions. The concept of management has developed extraordinarily throughout the last century, according to the varying theoretical stances that have determined individuals? understandings and constructions of the world. Management of a World Heritage site entails the efficient and integrated running of all components that allow it ? the World Heritage Site ? to continue to enjoy this status accordingly to the maintenance, conservation and restoration of its heritage. When we speak about management of World Heritage, the idea of sustainability springs into mind. Maintaining a physical environment in a sustainable manner should be an ideal to pursue, but this too exists in the complexity of specific contexts, where resources are not always available. Graham et al add that preservation and development are the two dominating strategic ideas in managing heritage, and sustainable development is an attempt at reconciling them rather than choosing between them (2000: 153). As mentioned in the section above, it is now a criterion of UNESCO that a site has an approved Management Plan for it to be awarded with World Heritage Status. A significant example of this newfound rigour was the deferral, in 2000, of the famous archaeological site of Bagan (Myanmar) because there was no effective management plan in force (Leask 200). Heritage specialists always carry the development of Management Plans. In the case of developing countries, it is more often than not, the case that those specialists are not from the country where the world heritage is located. Consultants are contracted by UNESCO and by National Governments to assess the site and to, generally in a team, develop a management plan with short, medium and long term goals and implementation strategies. Given the high cost that involves contracting highly specialised experts, trips are cut short, the specialists themselves are often busy and rely on their previous experience to draw quick conclusions. Their experience in other places, together with a few days of field location assessment, becomes the basis for the strategies that are advised on, and which the competent bodies should then work towards implementing. The importation of technical expertise to give answers to a local issue is not new, and seeing it undermine the development of that locality is not new either. It?s been one and half years. I?m flying to Nampula. Unesco contacted me two weeks ago. They have a consultant coming in to Mozambique Island to assess its educational needs. They asked to please come as an assistant consultant ? to interpret, translate and tour guide. This makes me concerned. We?re going today and coming back in three days. He?s never been to the Island. He?s only been to Mozambique three times. He doesn?t speak any Portuguese, let alone Macua. He doesn?t seem concerned. In three days we?ll have met a few people from the community, visited a few sites, sweated while walking up and down, and then a report will be written. While in the plane I attempt to start informing him about the island. He?s interested, but we?re not working yet. The message is clear. This is just a job. I speak on the basis of experience, knowing that those who have come to Mozambique Island to develop a Management Plan are not islanders. A lot of them are not even Africans, let alone Mozambican. And I ask how can an outsider become so aware of the complexities of a World Heritage Site, that upon a week of fieldwork he/she is able to go home and write a fine and suitable Management Plan? Did he hear all the voices concerned? Is he even aware of all the voices that are concerned?, amongst many questions. 56 It is questionable if a world heritage can be successfully maintained, given the absence of an effective governing body to assert the management of dissonance. The maintenance of national heritages in diverse societies depends on a fine balance of management (Graham et al. 2000: 97). I argue that the development of this management plan needs to be informed by the general argument of my thesis, which establishes very strongly that even though World Heritage Sites all need Management Plans, these need to be developed by individuals who are aware of their complexities ? through long fieldwork or through actual living experience. Through this research report, I propose that in order for a World Heritage Site to be assessed in terms of its needs for efficient management, restoration and renovation one needs to understand how the individuals that are the patrons and keepers of the site appropriate it as a World Heritage Site. Furthermore, the extent of appropriation can only be understood through the assessment and realisation of the complexities of that location, which I further argue to exist within a spectrum of visibility/invisibility. It needs to be clear, that what I am proposing is indeed challenging and novel, for various reasons to be extensively explored throughout the report. I do put people first; but not any individual. I put those who actually live in their everydayness in a specific World Heritage Site first. I argue that without understanding and taking into consideration their relationship with the physical and cultural environment with which they engage everyday, no Management Plan will be efficient enough, as it will not be appropriate for the context it is intended to. I further argue that, in order for those relationships to be ascertained, the complexities that are present in that society need to be unveiled, accounted for, savoured, acknowledged. There is not one Master Plan that fits all locations, just because they are all part of one List ? the World Heritage List. And should there be a Master Plan, then that is to go through a lengthy process, combining local and foreign expertise to dive into the social fabric and decipher relationships, processes, networks, systems. Furthermore, it should be inclusive of educational initiatives to raise public responsibility, and awareness of potential benefits. Protection can be legal, physical or moral, and includes preventive measures as well as maintaining and appropriate use or developing cultural or education activities. It relies on community commitment and, as a result, raising public awareness and appreciation of the cultural heritage is a condition of success as well as a necessary action to ensure active and sustainable conservation of a heritage place. Beyond awareness, conservation requires skills and resources, in particular financial; otherwise even the effectiveness of protection mechanisms will decline. Legislation might define powers to list a place and control its transformation by human activities, but it cannot stop natural processes that may damage it. For those, a cultural or programme of active maintenance and adequate management is required (ICOMOS 2000: 21). But I will not give more at this stage. Let the story unfold. The following section looks at issues of identity and place in World Heritage. The World Heritage Convention has developed a range of elements that serve as indicators of whether the site is being managed in such a way as to ensure that the values that are the reason for being inscribed on the World Heritage List are being maintained, e.g. management plan and strategies, appropriate regulation and funding regimes, development of management and reporting structures; as well as individual indicators relating to the quality of the site, e.g. visitor numbers, maintenance of heritage values (Hall 2006: 23). It is not clearly established who is responsible for what, which while on the one hand allows for flexibility and specificity according to the world heritage being managed, it also does not guide locations like Mozambique Island in forming a coherent and efficient structure to manage World Heritage. 57 ?Each person takes care of what belongs to him or her.? Atomane Ussaine and Iaquibo Ali Imams from Macuti Mosques; Photographed in front of their respective mosques 58 4. Theoretical Proposal: Visible and Invisible Complexities in the Appropriation of World Heritage This fourth section introduces the reader to my second theoretical stance. Here I argue that any location is made of complex flows and connections between actors and networks. These flows have particular rhythms of visibility, which vary according to how visible those involved want to be as well as to the eyes of the individuals looking at the situation. I argue that World Heritage Sites have complexities that are added to by the virtue of their universal status, yet local context. The section concludes with an investigation of the visible and invisible complexities of Mozambique Island as a World Heritage Site ? which directly determines and explains the degree of appropriation that the islanders feel towards their World Heritage. The managers of this world situation themselves concede the concentration of power in their (or their organisations?) hands; as well as their manipulation of peoples, boundaries, and cultures to appropriate the local for the global, to admit different cultures into the realm of capital only to break them down and to remake them in accordance with the requirements of production and consumption, and even to reconstitute subjectivities across national boundaries to create producers and consumers more responsive to the operations of capital. (Dirlik 1996: 32) I love my home. That?s natural. My whole life is here, I live here, so I?ve got to like it. If I don?t like it, I won?t take care of it, and it will end up becoming a ruin. Momade Gulamo Issufo (President of the Association of Sunni Muslims) * 4.1 Visible and Invisible Complexities Complexity Theory: The Notion of Interconnectivity and Flows ?Many of us have learned to want to cleave to an order. This is a modernist dream. In one way or another, we are attached to the idea that if our lives, our organisations, our social theories or our societies, were ?properly ordered? then all would be well. And we take it that such ordering is possible, at least some of the time. So when we encounter complexity we tend to treat it as a distraction. We treat it as a sign of the limits to order. Or we think if it as evidence of failure? (Law, 1994: 4-5 in Barnes 2005: 61). Complexity Theory explains that the reality we seek to understand and analyse is made of complex webs, which determine and are determined in a constant dance/flow of interconnected relationships between actors and networks. When analysing social scenarios, their complexity is of utter importance as well as the lenses through which that social scenario will be understood. Complexity theory clearly entails that ?there is more beyond what the naked eye can see?; it says ?look deeper and closer?. Less clearly, in my understanding, it also says, there is no final answer, all is temporary, all changes constantly, what is now is not what it will be then, no two individuals are the same, subjectivity is what we have to work with,. And very importantly for my work on this report and for my work in general, that there are relationships, 59 systems, actors, flows and networks that become more or less visible accordingly to the viewers positioning, according to the access to information we are given/give ourselves in particular circumstances, in relation to the social scenarios we live in and investigate. I believe that my whole schooling in the social sciences has been growing towards this theoretical stance. Unless we acknowledge that social and cultural scenarios are complex ?things?, we cannot even begin to theorise about them. That is the starting point, which on the other hand, acknowledges human weakness as well as the weakness within social sciences as a vehicle to the interpretation of our reality and source of solutions for a better world. In my personal view, complexity theory empowers one ? it empowers me. It says ?things cannot be explained so linearly, as they are multi-dimensional?. Temporary, spatial, religious, personal, communal, flexible, fluid, specific are just some words that describe social situations. It says that ?things are multi-dimensional, human beings are multi-dimensional, and actors engage in various dimensions at the same time?. And therefore the phenomenon we analyse is multidimensional, and even if specific, it exists within a world of interconnected flows, and complex relationships that determine it, and that are determined by each other. Flows between actors and networks have particular rhythms through which information, ideas and goods are shared, robbed, given, thought, constructed, destroyed, imagined, desired, despised. When in the field, the ethnographer?s greatest task is to learn to listen and recognise these rhythms, the rhythms that give life to people and things, that go from A to B to Z, carrying M with, destroying C, bothering Q, loving V and giving rise to K. And that can be valid for a period of time, or for a day. (Why research is indeed so limited and its beauty lies in the capturing and acknowledgement of these, about to die rhythms ? we, as ethnographers, are historians of the present.) What matters, is that in recognising that rhythm we can see that flow, we can see the actors that are connected, we can understand part of the reasons why the connection was born and how it is maintained. In an endlessly poetic form? made of visible and invisible complexities. * Visibility Two aspects determine the degree of visibility of a given complexity. Firstly, the subjective eyes: each individual is able to capture a varying reality of what he/she witnesses or is part of. Individuals? perceptions and understanding change according to their interest, their way of engaging with the dead and living worlds, their histories and stories, their gender, class, race, and their ethics and values. In this manner, different individuals perceive scenarios and their inherent complexities as more or less visible. Secondly, the situations are made to be more or less visible by the actors that sustain them, according to whom they want the situation to be visible to. Perhaps a good example is arms trafficking. Although the world of arms trafficking is so clear, obvious and visible to those involved in it, for most of us, it is made invisible, even when the repercussions it has can be felt in the world that is visible to us. Flows and networks are not obviously visible. And while the complexity of some situations is easily understood and perceived, the complexity of others can only be achieved through investigation (some times this posing danger to the investigator). The onion like research I mention in the first chapter refers 60 to the practice of unveiling more and more details about a locality as one?s experience, knowledge and insight into it increases. It is my view that any given situation is complex, and that that complexity exists in a long spectrum of visibility degrees. And that further to recognising complexity it is fundamental that researchers involved in the social sciences, are able to engage and differentiate what is visible and what is not obviously visible. In writing the less visible complexities, I have chosen to use a dark shade of grey as symbolic of their decreased presence and visibility to the naked eye. * Complexities of World Heritage Sites If any place is complex by the virtue of being inhabited by people over time, then World Heritage Sites have added complexities, as something in it is valuable to the whole humanity. Issues of management are difficult to resolve, especially in what concerns sites in developing countries due to the lack of resources, technical staff and equal power footing with institutions such as Unesco. Another issue is that International financial and project development corporations use internationally trained personnel who interact through global networks. This reduces investment risk by reusing ideas and programmes that have proved successful elsewhere, and encourages the selection of the same design details (Graham et al. 2000: 237), which overlooks complexities of specific places, and in my regard, becomes a recipe for failure. ICOMOS report of 2000 enumerates the following Global trends as affecting heritage: changing roles of the state towards divesting itself of its responsibilities; changing balance between public values and private interests; lack of human, financial and professional resources, domination of global economical interest; global trend of standardisation of culture, construction industry, practices, etc.; accelerated rate and greater scale of destruction; increase of population and poverty; maintenance deficiency; economic and social changes; insufficient conservation standards; tourism-related issues (ICOMOS 2000: 21). The power dynamics that come into play in the awarding of a universal status to a local place or monument are complex in themselves, bringing residues of colonisation forward (or of post-colonisation as a form of globalisation). World Heritage is defined by the citizens of the wealthier regions rather than by indigenous peoples (Graham et al. 2000: 239), which as my argument will review, contributes to the difficulty in appropriating World Heritage by the residents of Mozambique Island. The availability of financial resources to maintain and conserve World Heritage as per the regulation established is another serious matter. As it can be read below, Graham et al (2000) indicate that UNESCO has put in place a number of strategies to assist with the protection of the World Heritage Sites. Nevertheless, this is not enough. World Heritage Sites, especially those in developing countries need more support from institutions such as Unesco and ICOMOS. Thus a widespread conviction exists that the wealth of millennia of human artistic productivity is the responsibility of the whole human community and should be freely available for the enrichment of all now and in perpetuity; equally, all should contribute to its protection and support. UNESCO, for example, 61 has extended its responsibilities to include both the preservation and stimulation of many aspects of cultural, including conserved heritage, and also the means whereby such heritage is transmitted. Together with it subsidiary organisations such as ICOMOS, it has produced ideal codes of practice, issued conventions on the protection of cultural property in times of war and disorder and attempted to established a body of international law about ownership of cultural properties and international trade in them (Graham et al. 2000: 237). The World Heritage Convention is equally mandated to produce a List of World Heritage in Danger in order to facilitate emergency assistance, administer a World Heritage Fund in part to help needy signatory states protect their World Heritage Sites and later to monitor the conversation of designated properties. The emergency role has recently been supplemented by World Monuments Watch, an annual list of the world?s 100 most endangered cultural and historic sites, selected with respect to their wider significance (Graham et al. 2000). Contradictions persist in the application of the WHC between state sovereignty and international interests, preservations and the increase of tourism and broadening the representations of the WHL while maintaining its credibility. Nevertheless, the List continues to grow. They could undoubtedly be interpreted as an unseemly, even cynical, jockeying for comparative advantage in national prestige and tourism revenue, which often involves expedient political compromises (Graham et al. 2000: 243). Consequently, I agree with Graham et al. that it would seem that globalisation of heritage is to be resisted if heritage, and specifically that of the conserved built environment, is to be consciously used as an instrument for asserting the unique identities of places. There may be consensus that the locally unique is of global stature and possesses a global market, the satisfactions of which confer significant economic advantages to the locality. World Heritage complexities are varied where the boundaries established by nations, the power of global institutions, the economic benefits of tourism tend to overshadow the local needs of World Heritage Site needs, the networks already established, the difficulties in conserving, and how these are the individuals who should be made active in the conservation of World Heritage Sites, as without them some of these sites would be lifeless. * 4.2 Appropriation and Its Benefits Appropriation of an idea, practice or physical object can be done consciously or unconsciously, as an individual or as a group. By appropriation, I mean the acquiring of something that previously did not belong to one, which changes one?s world experience or perspective, bringing novelty that is perceived to be beneficial. I argue that [1] appropriation transforms something that is conceived as foreign, external or global, into something that is understood to be local, part of the individual or the group self; [2] appropriation happens when something is perceived to be beneficial to the appropriator, and in the same way, appropriation does not happen when something is perceived to be unbeneficial to the appropriator; [3] the concept of what is to be appropriated as well as the entailed perceived benefits are socially constructed, and therefore influenced and determined by the specificity of each individual or group of individuals? context, and in light of this, what might be of benefit for me, could be of no benefit for someone else. In this manner, the appropriation is a subjective act with internal and external consequences, through which we seek social, political, economic or religious benefits. 62 Even though there are activities, which we undertake that do not obviously seem of benefit to the individual, I believe that from the individual?s point of view, within his or her context, he or she is choosing the best for them (which could merely be to survive). My argument does not extend to believing that all human beings are selfish by virtue of being alive. Selfishness is an emotion totally guided by one?s ego, while analysing the benefits of appropriating something can both stem from emotional and rational places in oneself, on the basis of one?s moral code and ethics. In a community, or communal context, every individual has differing objectives and ways in which they think they can benefit. There are several categories in which an individual seeks to benefit, amongst which are to physically survive, to help his or her dear ones physically survive, to acquire power in a communal setting, to acquire financial gain, to rise up spiritually, to enjoy a more luxurious lifestyle, to realise a dream, to enjoy a moment. The benefits we seek are directly impacted and informed by our education, the values we uphold, which in turn are shaped by the context we live in. In a particular group of people, exchanging gifts might be a practice that sustains the links between them and makes them feel generous and loving. For another person, giving presents might not be benefitting because he or she sees no gain from it. The benefits we perceive are both influenced by the communal understandings of social cohesion and conflict, our educational background and the values through which we make sense of social and personal interaction. While benefits are ultimately subjective, individuals that share a social, political, economic, cultural and religious context, tend to share and agree upon them. I will further argue that, if appropriation depends upon perceived benefits, then education and participation are the tools that should be used to induce the development of an understanding of World Heritage as a platform for a better quality of life. * Appropriation of World Heritage ?My favourite building is the house where I live, which I am rehabilitating now. I am doing the reconstructing exactly as it should be done, the old way.? Luciano Ant?nio Jos? Chane General Secretary of OJM ?World Heritage is a status that any country would like to have attached to a national place. The fact that Mozambique Island is a World Heritage Site is an added value. We haven?t seen real outcomes from it though.? Flora Maria de Pinto Magalh?es President of the Tourism Association The concept of World heritage is particularly appropriate for the recognition of themes regarded as significant to humanity as a whole (Graham et al. 2000: 255). World Heritage is, as expressed above, a particular type of heritage, as it recognises the value of a place, object or culture for the whole humanity, including the generations to come. In establishing World Heritage Sites, UNESCO has the responsibility of evaluating the heritage of a thing, and attributing it World heritage status according to its value and the existence of a management plan. Although this may all sound rather simple, each site has complexities that are unique and specific to it, and which need to be taken into consideration, in an effort to recognise its reality and its context. Additionally, just by virtue of 63 being World Heritage Sites, each locality enjoys further complexities that are a product of the complex nature of attributing a universal status to a specific locality. With regards to ownership, World Heritage Sites are tricky to understand and manage. While they are awarded a global status, they exist in a very localised environment, which is regulated by World Heritage standards, ideally appropriated by local government. For a World Heritage Site to work well, being sustainable and benefitting the people that inhabit it, its historicity and specificity need to be fully acknowledged. In light of this, the Management Plan of the World Heritage of a place needs to be produced in acknowledgement of the uniqueness and complexity of each location. I argue that, to a great extent, the problematic around World Heritage in Mozambique Island lies in the lack of clarity around issues of identity, responsibility, knowledge and appropriation. These are complex questions that deserve research funding and dedication, in order for policy makers, government officials, NGO staff and private individuals to be able to make informed decisions that concern individuals living in the island as well as the heritage of the island. In addition, I believe that the theoretical binary of the global and the local does not aid in accomplishing a practical or theoretical understanding of a World Heritage Site. The idea of scales, and being able to get perspectives on the same issue through various contextualising scales, can be used to offer insight into the complexity of the site. The rhetoric is global: the practice is national (Ashworth and van der Aa 2006: 148). Choices are made on the basis of knowledge and power. Choices are made by individuals for themselves, by individuals for their community, by individuals for others or by individuals for the greater majority ? but they are always made by individuals. These choices are determined by what individuals perceive to be beneficial to them. When something is not beneficial, depending on the power individuals can exercise (that being financial, political, social or religious) decisions are made against. The notion that every individual has agency and is an actor within networks is, as explored before, crucial for the thesis I propose. Furthermore, the understanding that individuals, organisations and governments make choices that do not benefit others around in an equal form needs to be clear. Individuals, organisations and governments use their power to appropriate things. Additionally, the constituted networks of appropriation are not always visible ? their visibility varies according to the degree to which being known, benefits the network and its actors. In the context of appropriation, the particularity of anything global is that it becomes local immediately once appropriated by individuals and groups in the world. Global fashions, when appropriated locally, are reinterpreted and integrated to an existing way of thinking. The global is appropriated when needed or wanted, in bits and pieces. I acknowledge the existence of hegemonic global forces that impose themselves on the reality of people, such as the IMF structural adjustment programmes, for instance. In terms of World Heritage, one can perhaps say that besides the good intentions behind conserving a historical past, the attribution of World Heritage Status to physical and cultural locations around the world, also imposes a certain identity, entailing a given value and one would assume, a determined and specific management plan, towards the conservation of this location to all coming generations of humanity. 64 It is my hypothesis, that the attribution of World Heritage Status to Mozambique Island imposes a set of values that are not necessarily understood, seen as needed or wanted by its very population. While Mozambique Island happens to be an island off the coast of a very poor African country, it has been granted a World Heritage Status. Locally there is an appropriation of global fashions and modernity in some ways, however the universal concept of World Heritage is not being appropriated. Following my previous line of thought, global ideas and practices are appropriated by local individuals and groups to become local hybridities. My question then is whether Mozambique Island?s World Heritage Status has been appropriated by its islanders ? reinterpreted, reinvented, and made their own? My research aims to answer this broad question, so as to gain insight into why this island is not being conserved. In this way, I will dive into the explorations of the complexities that do not allow for this appropriation, through an appreciation of the political, economic, social and religious historical and contemporary context of the island. The concept of appropriation, when understood in terms of heritage and scale, allows us to better understand and view how the global is manifested in the local. When applying my understanding of appropriation to the context of World Heritage, one has to start by looking at the manner in which World Heritage is a status attributed by a foreign body to a thing or practice, for its value to humanity. This entails that until the status is attributed, that locality, building or practice is not perceived in those terms by those who engage with it when using it, living in it, observing it or practicing it. When, how and why do those individuals start engaging with it as a World Heritage Site? And if they don?t, why is that? Does that change the relationship individuals enjoy with/in it, and if so, how? One would think that the relationship changes, like an obvious consequence. But that is not necessarily the case. I argue that the appropriation of such a new status only takes place when the individual or community feel that they (can/will) benefit from it. Otherwise, it goes unnoticed, it does not make sense, or it just does not need that status in order to continue to have meaning. Appropriation of World Heritage, in this manner, becomes the explanatory concept, which answers my research question. I suggest that unless one stops to understand how the complexities of a locality determine the perceived benefits individuals have of World Heritage status, we will not grasp how and why they engage with it the way they do. The perceived and actual benefits directly determine the extent to which individuals conserve and maintain their World Heritage. Therefore, I argue that studying the appropriation of World Heritage by the individuals that inhabit it, in light of their perceived and actual benefits from it being a World Heritage Site, explains the state a World Heritage is in. Furthermore, it is the only way to develop a management plan that is efficient, integrated and, hopefully, participatory. The following section looks at the dialectic relationship between identity and space and appropriation. Identity and space as demonstrated above, are vital concepts in the understanding of World Heritage in a locality. * 65 ?I stop many times to observe the entrance to the harbour. It makes me feel like I?m in another world, or in another period in history, the entrance to the harbour, with the anchor and the two canons. This building makes me waste a lot of my time.? Cristina Lu?s Director of Mozambique Island?s High School Photographed in front of the entrance of the Capitania 66 Identity, Space and Ownership: A Dialectic Relationship with Appropriation ?We are heritage, the buildings are heritage, the seas are heritage. In the case of Mozambique Island, everything that surrounds us is heritage ? the buildings, the monuments, the people that live in the buildings, the seas.? Flora Maria de Pinto Magalh?es President of the Tourism Association Identity and space are concepts that have a direct interaction with the idea of World Heritage and its appropriation in a social context. Given that these are socially constructed, when a status such as World Heritage is introduced to a locality, one assumes that this will have an impact on the identity of the islanders, as well as on their the sense of space and ownership of this. I propose that space, identity and ownership have a dialectical relationship with the appropriation of World Heritage. On the one hand, the degree of appropriation by the islanders is determined and influenced by individuals? sense of identity, space and ownership towards the World Heritage. While on the other hand, one?s sense of identity, space and ownership towards World Heritage definitely impacts on how appropriation is felt and acted upon. In addition, these three concepts shape and are shaped by one?s perception of how appropriation could or not be benefitting, accordingly to one?s subjectiveness. ?Mozambique Island is like paradise for us. That?s the impression that stays, that marks one, that never leaves a person. It doesn?t matter how far you are. When I was in Maputo, I dreamt of Mozambique Island often. Sometimes I dreamt of being here in this wall, I would jump it and then I would run and start flying and I would fly for a long time. This island stays in one?s subconscious.? Flora Maria de Pinto Magalh?es President of the Tourism Association * State of Conservation, Maintenance and Management As Indicators of Appropriation Given that appropriation makes one take care of one?s space with added care and concern, as the space reflects one identity and adorns one with added sense belonging, the state of conservation, maintenance and management reflects and indicates the degree of appropriation that individuals, institutions and government have of a thing, in this case the World Heritage of Mozambique Island. The conservation and maintenance of something will only take place if the individuals are utilising it daily and when they have power to decide that that thing is worth their efforts. The level and efficacy of management of a World Heritage Site totally depends on the interest and financial resources that these institutions dedicate to it. On the other hand, even if buildings are renovated, if the population of the island does not appropriate this World Heritage as they own and take responsibility for its conservation and maintenance, the renovation will soon start decaying and look like it did not take place. As it is further in this paper argued, through education and participation (together with other strategies that impact the economy and other aspects of a locality), World Heritage Site inhabitants can begin to take pride and become an active part of its maintenance and conservation. 67 5. Case Study: World Heritage of Mozambique Island * 5.1 A Relevant Timeline I approach the fort. 3 boys gather around me. They want to be my guide. They want to tell me about it all, who constructed it, when, how, where the slaves were kept and killed. They argue amongst themselves about who has the most knowledge. They are young, between 8 and 12 years old. I ask them to choose who will do the guiding. They choose Satamo. Satamo starts his speech: First of all, you should know that Mozambique Island is a World Heritage Site, and that the Fort of St. Sebastian is the most important. It?s our most important heritage. Do you know how many years it took to construct? Do you know where the stone they used for it was gathered? No, I didn?t know, so he went on to explain in detail with dates; he showed me each division, told me stories about the slaves. He told me everything he knew. He was especially proud when speaking about the 120 years it took many many people to construct this fort where the Portuguese fought and defended their colony to be. ?Mozambique was born from this island. Mozambique Island is the mother of the whole country and people don?t value that. They should value this place more than other places.? Ibraimo Muss? Imam of the Islamic Council Mosque ?Mozambique Island is World Heritage because it is a museum-like city. It?s an island with very old things. It?s a museum island.? Mussagi Fakir Imam of first mosque of Mozambique Mozambique Island is the only World Heritage site in Mozambique. It has been a cultural World Heritage Site since 199016. The application for World Heritage Status was developed by the Friends of Mozambique Island17, endorsed by the Government of Mozambique and was accepted by UNESCO. The island serves as a historical testimony of the various economic, political and social activities endured in East Africa by individuals and groups from various parts of the world from the 15th century to the early 20th century (Pereira 1992). Its architectural heritage is of great significance, as it can, to an extent, demonstrate how life was lived and the influence of varied cultures. The island?s architecture brings feelings of nostalgia to those who visit it, as not only are the buildings old, but they are also in a state of mismanagement lending them their popular name ?ruins?. Historically, Mozambique Island enjoyed a unique position in the Indian Ocean. Once sought after by different European powers, this small piece of land off the coast saw battles between the Portuguese, the first to build and consider it their own, and the Dutch, who once resigned that they would not conquer it, decided to establish themselves in the Cape of Good Hope, currently the city of Cape Town. The slave trade was the first trade that Mozambique Island was used for. Slaves came from the whole East African coast and the interior of the current Mozambique, Malawi and Zimbabwe to be taken to India, the Far East, South America, Europe and Cape Town. The St. Sebastian Fort was built not only to defend 16 Appendix 1 ? Unesco?s Declaration granting Mozambique Island World Heritage Status, December 1990 17 Association of the Friends of Mozambique Island, created in the late eighties by islanders who sought to protect the island, as well as its heritage. The association still exists to this day, running diverse socio-economic projects in the island, including pre-schools and the community radio. Figures 17 and 18: My friends Momadi and Satamo photographed in Stone Town 68 the island from those who wanted to possess it, but also to educate, punish and trade the slaves. This fort was one the first buildings to be edified in the island, in 1521. Throughout the years, its unique geographical position in the route to and from India, and Europe, gained an increased status. The ocean bed allowed ships to come close enough to make the refurbishment of goods in long trips. Mozambique Island, as a trading spot, became popular, enjoying a period of continuous and successful trade. Trade signified the movement of goods, ideas and people. Not only were slaves from Africa taken elsewhere, but also individuals from other parts of the world were arriving to work in the development of this city, to explore its various economic opportunities and to, put simply, be part of the colonial project. The Portuguese arrived in Mozambique Island in the beginning of the 16th century. By then, the Arabs had already arrived, and were trading slaves and sea product, without the intention of owning the land. Arabs, the Portuguese traders and the slaves from the coast inhabited this Island for five centuries, producing a unique architectural style that is witness to that specific context and circumstances (Pereira 1992). Close to the turn of the 19th century, Mozambique Island, capital of Mozambique, saw the arrival of Islamic spiritual leaders from the Comoros Islands and Zanzibar Island. The result of this was the introduction of Sufi practices to Mozambique Island as well as throughout the east coast of Africa, from Kenya to the North of Mozambique. Islamic practices became increasingly popular, becoming part of the everyday life of the slaves. Not only did these give richness in terms of religious practices, but they offered a moral conduct that was strictly followed, in which hierarchies were respected and spiritual leaders were protected ? to a certain extent living parallel to the political and economic life of the island. Mozambique Island witnessed a unique blend of people, creating new cultural, economic, religious and physical productions. Once there, an individual can feel the weight of time, and can have a glimpse into a remarkably busy and urban life, gone with history. If Shackley (1998 in van de Aa 2005) is right in affirming that the world heritage list is able to show a state?s national identity, as the sites nominated by the state parties are designated as ?national flag carriers, symbols in some way of national culture and character? (1998: 6 in van der Aa 2005: 133), then interesting questions can be asked of Mozambique Island as the only World Heritage Site of the state of Mozambique. Due to the complexity of that question in itself I choose not to immerse myself in exploring it, rather leaving it for research to be carried out in the future.18 ?Mozambique Island is considered to be a World Heritage Site because, well the story is a bit long.. Because it was here in Mozambique Island that the foreign structures crossed paths. This is the first strong reason. They crossed paths in the 14th/15th centuries. At that stage Mozambiquehood did not exist, it was the era of the ?discoveries?, when Europe was discovering [laughs]! Even in the 18th century their research was directed towards colonialism. Here in this island there were many fights between foreign people ? the Arabs and the Portuguese. The arms that are here were used to defend the island. Many Mozambicans and foreigners died here. We have three shipwrecks, some of which are being explored by the arqueonautas. The arqueonautas are a group of divers that are taking things from the shipwrecks due to the war. This is the principal reason ? the crossing of countries, of communities that are not even African. That is the strong 18 For a brief history of Mozambique Island refer to Appendix 4 69 reason. With regards to the country, this where the whole country started and where the whole slavery market took place. People were brought here. The slaves that we not bought were shot dead, as well as all the people who did not perform at work. When we start telling people what really happened here, the scenario becomes very shocking. This place was like a centre, not like a war stage, more like a killing stage.? Alfredo Matata District Administrator ?Heritage is what we receive as inheritance. We have inherited an inheritance ? a product of the crossing of cultures here in Mozambique Island, way before the 17th century. This place was a great commercial location, centrally for slavery. Later on, between 1630 and 1670, these were years in which slavery was strongly felt here, and this was a very profitable business in Asia. First the Arabs arrived, then the Portuguese, then others. And that?s why you find here the indo-portuguese, the Portuguese from Portugal, the afro-european, each with their own culture. So this mixture of cultures, and the way of living, the way of building, all of this gave the island a uniqueness, in terms of its buildings, its installations, and only here can you find such things, only here can one come relive the history. There are monuments that are real witnesses to the past like the museum, the first mosque, the fort. All these elements put together, these particularities, these characteristics, gave the right to declare this as a World Heritage Site, because it transcends the culture and the local capacity of cultural production, and it goes beyond this place.? Silv?rio Naoito Director of the Museum of Mozambique Island * Special Status ?The government just approved the island?s special status ? last year. So that country should give Mozambique Island its deserved attention. One of the components is the fact that was the first capital of the country. So from our own regard this place should be special in itself, but of course when we speak of World Heritage it evokes from attention.? Alfredo Matata District Administrator Since it became a World Heritage Site, Mozambique Island has not enjoyed much attention by its National Government on the grounds of its World Heritage status. It was only in 2006 that the National Government recognised the island?s heritage from a constitutional point of view, awarding it a ?special status? [Estatuto Especial]. Under this Act, and according to its name, Mozambique Island enjoys a special status in relation to other municipalities in the country. The World Heritage Convention previews the existence of a managing body in each World Heritage Site, as discussed earlier in this chapter. As the whole city of Mozambique Island is considered a World Heritage Site, constitutionally, institutional authority needs to be reviewed and made unique for the circumstances of the Island. The award ?Special Status? to Mozambique Island supports the creation of an Office for the Management and Monitoring of the World Heritage, which works directly under the National Directory for Heritage Conservation in the Ministry of Education and Culture. This office was created partly in response to the lack of management of the World Heritage of Mozambique Island. 70 * 5.2 The Visible and Invisible Complexities of Mozambique Island All specificities are in their own ways replays or reworkings of the totality of social reality. This is what I mean by the idea of ?globalism?s localisms? ? each and every local case is readable as ?symbolic response? to the global (Polan 1996: 259). It is my understanding that every location is unique, given its unique place in the world, which sets up specific relationships with those who inhabit it as well as the environment that surrounds it. In this way, each location is specific, having a unique historicity and a unique present ? which in turn is composed of all sorts of different complexities, determined and influenced by the on-going fluid relationship between the networks and the actors of a given location. In order to understand a place, one therefore needs to explore the relationships that are established between actors and networks ? how these are created, how these develop, their meaning, their consequences, their death. In such an investigation one begins to have a glimpse into the rhythm of a place, and tapping into the complexities that surround its existence, its everydayness, its ever changing and fluid structure. Applying this theoretical framework to the case-study of Mozambique Island, it becomes clear that in order to enjoy the understanding of the state of management and conservation of the World Heritage of the island, one has to start by investigating the various spheres that are a determining part of how the island functions and responds to the management of such a status. The conservation and management of World Heritage is informed by the current complexities at political, social, religious, geographical and economic levels. World Heritage is a status awarded to locations that manifest uniqueness on cultural or natural valuables. Mozambique Island was awarded this status on the basis of its cultural heritage, determining that the whole island is a world heritage site. In this manner, one can preview that managing such a site is not a simple or easy task as it lies upon existing and ever changing complexities which are determined by a myriad of local, regional and global factors. * Geographical Complexities Mozambique has had an interesting and, in the context of post-colonial Africa, not unusual trajectory through the last quarter of the 20th century. Since signing the peace accords in 1992, declaring peace and Figures 19, 20, 21 and 22: Photographs of building facades in Stone Town 71 subsequently opting for a generally capitalist mode of open economy, Mozambique has seen a continuous GNP growth. This translates into a better health care system, better roads and bridges and less illiteracy, although the gap between the very rich and the majority poor continues to deepen. Mozambique is plagued by its choices, namely the structural adjustment programmes its government agreed and agrees on in order to be the benefactor of large loans throughout the 1990s, until the present day. Many factories have been closed as a result of agreements on the exportation of raw goods, such as prawns and cashew nuts. In addition, the wars generated a mass migration to the cities, from the rural areas, seeing the rise of extreme urban poverty. The governmental institutions and bureaucratic systems became, in the early nineties, cocoons of corruption, from the doctor who was corrupted to give better treatment to a patient, to an official receiving money to make a passport without the individual?s identity documents. Corruption became part of a way of working, getting things done, accomplishing projects; from the police officer to high governmental officials, corruption, together with nepotism, for a while became trademarks of being a Mozambican. Presently, Mozambique has an unparallel GNP ? although the poverty felt by the majority of its population continues to be extreme, exacerbated by the several climate-triggered disasters the country experiences all year long (drought, floods, cyclones and locusts). In a growing private economy, Mozambique is open to foreign investment, indeed serving as a platform of investment to its neighbouring countries. Its long coastal line makes the country a desirable tourist destination, as well as a naval and commercial destination in Southern Africa. In terms of its national politics of development, the Government of Mozambique has often been criticised of centralising its efforts in the province of Maputo, the capital, or generally to the Southern part of the country, as historically the north was ruled by Renamo during the civil war. ?But the government also has some responsibilities, but when they receive money, instead of dividing, the money goes to Nampula and it never reaches Mozambique Island. The money should be divided by the secretaries of neighbourhood ? they would divide correctly according to the real need.? Abacar Faqui Amuri, Momade Abdul Amisse, Ussaine Ossane, Alfane Pilale, Abudo Swal? Abudo Municipality Neighbourhood Secretaries Figure 23: Map of Mozambique 72 ?The Ministries of Commerce, Industry and Tourism should channel investors here. But they never do. Everyone ends up just going to the capitals, to Maputo.? Momade Gulamo Issufo President of Association of Sunni Muslims ?The government does not help the north where there are severe calamities. They only look after the south. All is closed to the north of the country.? Abacar Faqui Amuri, Momade Abdul Amisse, Ussaine Ossane, Alfane Pilale, Abudo Swal? Abudo Municipality Neighbourhood Secretaries Mozambique Island is situated in the District of Mozambique Island, which includes the island as well as the continental land surrounding it. This is part of the Province of Nampula, localised in the North of the country, bordering the Indian Ocean to the east, Zamb?zia Province to the south, Cabo Delgado and Niassa both to the North and Malawi to the West. The two biggest commercial cities of Nampula province are Nampula and Nacala, both within 200 km of Mozambique Island. It has an area of 81,606 Km2 and a population of 3,767,114 (in 2006). Nampula city is the capital of the province. In the beginning of the 19th century, under Portuguese rule this province was named Mo?ambique. The name was then used for the entire country and the province renamed after its capital city. ?Mozambique Island is the cradle of Mozambique.? Raul Matano Muss? and Amisse Ussaine Traditional Chiefs ?For our Mozambique, this island is very historical. They say that Mozambique was born of this island. This was the first Mozambican capital, and it?s a very old city. Really really old, so they reached this consensus that the island had to belong to the World Heritage of Humanity because it?s a very historical place.? Luciano Ant?nio Jos? Chane General Secretary of OJM Nampula?s principle economically profitable activities are fishing, cotton farms and export/import activities through the recently upgraded port of Nacala. In political terms, Nampula province has historically been a Renamo province, where most of its voters were still Renamo supporters, at the December 2004 Presidential and Governmental elections. Islam arrived in the north of Mozambique in the late 13th century, through Arab entrepreneurs, mostly originally from Yemen and Oman. Presently, the majority of the province is Islamic, with a few hundred mosques in its territory. In Nampula, Muslims are both local Macua people, who descend from the Swahili Figure 24: Map of Nampula Province 73 people, as well as Indian and Pakistani 2nd and 3rd generation emigrants that have established themselves in the Province, running the bulk of its commercial activities. Sitting down in the square opposite the museum, the Old Governor?s Palace. The sun sets in front of me, as I face west. I can see the sea undulating, and dancing to the wind?s breeze. Small boats are still crossing to the continent. I think of the story that was accounted to me this afternoon. While interviewing the secretaries of the neighbourhood of the Municipal Council, we spoke about their love for this island. There sitting in their matted floors, with five men, I listened to the story of how Mozambique came to be the name of this island, province, and country, in this order. ?The Arabs arrived before the Portuguese. By the time the Portuguese arrived in their big wooden ships there were Arabs living here already, and the first mosque had been built already, a Primeira Mesquita, the first mosque built in Mozambique dates to the 13th century. So, when they arrived and came in their ship they encountered a person that was sailing in a small artisan?s fishing boat. The Portuguese asked him what the name of this place was. This was the first time they were here. And the Arab, who thought they were asking what his name was, replied Mussa Al Bique. That Arab had settled here, and they say he was a Shehe. So that?s how the name Mo?ambique came into being, from the Arab?s name Mussa Al Bique, there is much Arab heritage. But in the Mozambican history books this is not accounted, this very important part of our history is not taught to the young students, and they forget where they come from. In fact they never come to know the truth, and what an important one this is.? Abacar Faqui Amuri, Momade Abdul Amisse, Ussaine Ossane, Alfane Pilale, Abudo Swal? Abudo Municipality Neighbourhood Secretaries I sit here going back and forward in this story, as if I?m listening to their voices telling it to me. I think of the intangible heritage they possess, and if not nurtured, valued and documented, it will die with them. It saddens me. I look at the sea, the sun almost setting, and I see a fisherman in his boat, very close to the shore. Mussa Al- Bique becomes alive in my memory of the history of this island, and of this country. After all, history can easily be rewritten, at least in one?s own memory of it. Mozambique Island, off the coast of Nampula Province, is going through some of its worst years of poverty. According to the many individuals I engaged with during my research, never was the situation so severe and hopeless. Not only does the island suffer on account of the broader socio-economic choices of the government of Mozambique, but also its particular circumstances lead to a desperate situation experienced by the majority. This section is dedicated to the exploration of the various factors that contribute to the current situation lived in Mozambique Island, of which extreme poverty is a consequence and a determining factor in its development. The objective is to unveil the various complexities of this geographical location, looking at it from various scales and identifying networks and agents that exist in it. 74 ?The whole island belongs to World Heritage. It?s an island made of the island itself. I say that because the majority of the houses in Stone Town came out of these neighbourhoods [Macuti Town], and that has a very strong meaning, really strong.? ?[My favourite building is] the house where I live, which I am rehabilitating now. I am doing the reconstructing exactly as it should be done, the old way.? Luciano Ant?nio Jos? Chane General Secretary of OJM Photographed in front of his house, under renovations 75 In grasping the various complexities, one is in a better position to relate to the World Heritage of the island as well as the issues of space, ownership and identity that the residents confront currently. Chronologically, when looking at the economic life of Mozambique Island, we remember that this was once the capital of Mozambique in the early 20th century, then established as the Provincial capital of Nampula (mid 20th century), and presently the district capital of Mozambique Island. The island lived through periods of incredible prosperity, together with Ibo Island, mostly based on the trade of slaves from East Africa. By the mid 20th century, Mozambique Island was a location in economic ascendance; it attracted specialised services, as well as individuals from the surrounding villages and towns, coming to work in the city as craftsmen. Its small harbour saw hundreds of boats coming and going, bringing goods that would then be taken by train from Lumbo to Nampula, and so on. During this period the population of Mozambique Island started growing rapidly, as its development was evident. ?This island used to be full of beauty. It was a beautiful island. It smelt so well. It was luxurious; it was a pleasure to be on.? Roquia, Habiba, Ahsha, Lima, Fatima, Anshia, Waquim, Zaitouna, Amina Mussaji , Habiba, Manaueto, Zaina Sufi Khalifas After Independence was declared in 1975 many Portuguese individuals, who ran the businesses and services in Mozambique Island, decided to abandon the country and return to Portugal, or migrate elsewhere. This was a turning point in the history of the island ? houses and shops were abandoned, some entrusted to local individuals, others closed down, and many simply abandoned. I can still hear my father recollecting his childhood on this island. I can?t recall the details; just how he came alive in sharing them, and how I desired to visit this place. Between then and now so much has changed. The harbour of Mozambique Island no longer functions. My grandfather was the harbour?s registrar for many years. Following the independence from its colonial power, a civil war in Mozambique started in 1977, lasting until 1992. The strongly Renamo north, was often attacked by Frelimo militia, seeing some of the worst military confrontations during those years. The towns that surround Mozambique Island suffered hard attacks, and small-scale confrontations. Thousands of people took refuge on the island, occupying the recently abandoned houses in the Stone Town. From a controlled population of around 9,000, the population of Mozambique Island rose to 33,000 during and after the civil war. The infrastructures of the island were not prepared to cater for the growing population. In addition, the absence of management, the lack of resources and general care during the war gave birth to a very debilitating situation, in which the island?s architectural world heritage began to be misunderstood, under cared for and generally abused. Many houses in stone town were sacked, including the structural wooden sticks that sustain the walls and the ceilings. During the civil war, most services closed down. Thousands of people became unemployed. The harbour, which accounted for much of the economic activity in the island, was later transferred to Nacala, and consequently the railway was closed. The growing population of the island, the lack of resources, the limited access to the continental land as well as the lack of management led the island to a poor state, both socially and economically. ?The quality of life on Mozambique Island is: POVERTY! It?s poverty because long ago there were companies, the railway, we had working boats ? not those 76 wooden ones, but big ones that transported goods ?, there were companies, the customs? There were a lot of things here on Mozambique Island where one could spend his time earning money with his own sweat. But today none of these things exist here anymore. There are only institutions and hotels. I think this in future will be a centre of tourism. But this population is not used to this, so there is much poverty and misery.? Imo Municipality?s Officer for Finances and Public Works After the peace accords were signed in 1992, the few factories that restarted manufacturing, as a consequence of some of the Structural Adjustment Programmes Mozambique signed up for, closed down in the following years. These used to employ alot the male population from the island, therefore providing salaries. The lack of employment is currently cited as one of the main problems in Mozambique Island. Educated young individuals do not have the possibility of being employed in the island, most becoming assistant fishermen. ?Here the whole population lives from the sea. The factory here is the sea, the ocean.? Mussagi Fakir Imam of first mosque of Mozambique ?The biggest reality of the island is hunger, and the lack of jobs.? Zainal Acting president of the Association of the Friends of Mozambique Island * Geographically this island is divided into two distinct areas: Macuti Town and Stone Town. Macuti occupies more than 50% of the physical area of the island. When the island was being constructed, a lot of the stone used for the construction of the Stone Town houses was dug from this area, provoking its currently lower terrain. The Macuti part of the city was inhabited by the servants of Stone Town. They were only allowed to cross into Stone Town for the purposes of rendering a service19. ?The whole island belongs to World Heritage. It?s an island made of the island itself. I say that because the majority of the houses in Stone Town came out of these neighbourhoods [Macuti Town], and that has a very strong meaning, really strong.? Luciano Ant?nio Jos? Chane (General Secretary of OJM ?Even a long time ago there were distinct classes: the poor class, and the noble class. The more privileged lived here [Stone Town]. On the other side, you would find the people that were serving the interests of the people here. That?s why I think it is important to preserve everything.? Silv?rio Naoito Director of the Museum of Mozambique Island 19 I believe that it would be interesting to conduct a research project around the manner in which the division between Macuti and Stone town, in terms of its houses, urban planning, economic status and social denomination has affected and affects the islanders? relationship with World Heritage. Macuti Town Stone Town Figure 25: Map of Mozambique Island, showing location of Macuti Town and Stone Town 77 Macuti gained its name from the material used for the roofs of the houses, which housed the servants of those living in Stone Town as well as harbour and factory workers. This material is taken from the large plantations of palm trees that used to exist close to the island on the continent. This was incredibly efficient during the rainy season, while also making for a cool ambience during the long summer months. Currently, the plantations of these palm trees have begun to decrease, impacting the availability of macuti in the island. Optimally the macuti roofs have to be changed every year, but due to the lack of availability of this dried palm leaf, prices have escalated making it very difficult for the Macuti residents to keep this original roof, and have a good quality of life at the same time. ?Macuti Town is being forgotten. Macuti itself is finishing. People that have some money they put other types of roof. Also the people that are selling macuti are cheating; they don?t dry it properly so it lasts for about one year and then it starts to rot. So of course people prefer to by corrugated iron.? Ibraimo Muss? Imam of the Islamic Council Mosque The division between these two neighbourhoods of the island is visually clear and obvious to the naked eye. From a certain point onwards, if walking from the S. Sebastian Fort south, one can see the type of houses changing, the population density increasing, as well as a sharp difference in the urban planning. In addition, social problems such as sanitary inadequacies, crime through robbery, public health crises, amongst others, exist in greater proportion in Macuti than in Stone Town. After the hospital it is clear that one is in another part of town. Another world even, it seems. It is so clearly divided. The macuti houses are smaller, and close together. They exist in what feels like small arteries, through which people walk to and from their homes, where children play, women cook, men play ntchuva. Drainage is a central problem in Macuti. Recently a new drainage system was elaborated and constructed in some of the Macuti neighbourhoods. Nevertheless, due to lack of maintenance, some errors in design and the weather conditions, the drainage channels are often congested, flooding into the sidewalks. The drainage channels are 60 cm wide and 100 cm deep; these are not protected and run between the neighbourhoods? informal sand roads. There have been a few drowning cases reported ? small children fall into the flooded drainages at night, only to be found dead the following morning. ?The way people live here. It really is disgraceful. The neighbourhoods are a source of mosquitoes, the water pumps don?t work; the population is alive just because. In matter of fact that don?t live, they survive.? Cristina District Director for Education, Youth and Technology Figures 26 and 27: Macuti Town Figures 28 and 29: Stone Town 78 The malfunctioning of the drainage systems, and the lack of these in other areas, leaves the water to accumulate and stagnate in many areas of Macuti, especially since Macuti is a lower ground level in relation to Stone Town. Stagnated water is a perfect environment for diseases to thrive that ravish the communities in Mozambique Island. Bursts of the cholera epidemic are common during the rainy season (from October to March) and malaria, although present throughout the year, also increases during this period, accounting for a few hundred deaths a year20. Robbery has more recently become a worry amongst residents of Macuti. Although crime is not violent, it exists and people fear for their belongings. Houses are not barred and windows are often non-existent. On the other hand, given that many residents of Stone Town have ?high-jacked? houses which need maintenance in order to be healthy environments, the condition of many of those who have stone and lime houses ends up being lower then those in Macuti. Some of the houses do not have sanitary conditions, while being inhabited by more then one family. ?It?s normal that you, in Mozambique Island, find a house where six families live, although there is so much land in the continent.? Luciano Ant?nio Jos? Chane General Secretary of OJM In this context, the use of the beach as a toilet has become a normal practice, a culturally accepted practice, and perhaps one that originates from the need for hygiene, which back in the days would be otherwise impossible to live with given the lack of available sanitary facilities in the Macuti neighbourhoods. Currently, the Municipal Council is carrying social projects to target this problem, including the supervision of the beaches, community education and the construction of a few public toilets and many home toilets. The last effort responds to the fact that using the beach as a toilet is a great public health problem, which also has a negative impact on tourism. All interviewees point out the fact that using the beach as a toilet was something that needed to change in order for the island to attract more tourists, and for health reasons too. The management of this problem seems to be complex. The roots of this activity are deeply rooted in historical behaviour, as this side of town did not have toilets built for its residents throughout the centuries. Individuals were forced to use the beach out of any other cleaner option. Nevertheless, the lack of maintenance of the public toilets, the lack of running water, together with deeply embedded historical practices, makes this a complex and difficult problem to solve. In the Islamic tradition, cleanliness is an important facet of the religion, so using the beach as a toilet could be seen as cleaner then using a toilet that has not been cleaned in weeks, and that does not have running water. ?This is an island. A coral island. And many years back they did not allow for the construction of toilets in the house. There were some public toilets, which are still there to this day, but they get full, and sometimes explode ? a terrible smell. Today we have toilets in the houses, but where does the sewage go? Directly to the beach. We are prohibiting people to use the beach as a toilet, but the ?product? goes to the beach in any event. What are we really prohibiting ? to show naked bums or that the poo goes to the beach? I love the fact that there are toilets now, but we need to change the sewage system. How are we bettering them? Why is it worth it? I also used the beach as a toilet ? I enjoyed. It?s very beautiful under the sky. Why the domestic worker didn?t clean the toilets or they were wet, 20 Exact numbers not available 79 then I preferred using the beach. It?s not like it?s in culture; there are motives that lead people to do it. Even the institutions don?t have toilets. Are we fighting this action? No!? Zainal Acting president of the Association of the Friends of Mozambique Island ?We have a problem here in Mozambique Island, that 95% of the islanders practice the Muslim faith, and almost 5% practice other religions, including Catholicism. We?ve got this social component that becomes a problem to public health. Here in Mozambique Island people do not respect the beach shore, or the use of public toilets. Instead, they prefer go to the beach. So we are working against this, getting police force there, but that might not be very practical.? Alfredo Matata District Administrator In terms of its geographical positioning in the coast of Mozambique, this island was surrounded by large quantities of coral, where thousands of fish inhabited. Furthermore, during the 1990s two previous citizens of this Island, who had left upon it became independent from Mozambique, came back and stole tons of coral within close proximity of the island. This was then exported to places I am not aware of. I saw the remains of this stolen coral during my fieldwork in a warehouse near the bank. One of the most negative consequences of this has been the disruption of the marine ecosystem that surrounds the island. The decrease in the availability of coral, home for the fish that sustain the islanders? livelihoods, has had a direct effect on the amount of available fish. Fisherman complain that fish no longer can be found near the island, and that now they have to go to the deep sea to find these, which on the other hand entails the availability of appropriate boats that can manage the currents and storms of the deep sea. Another partly visible action that currently takes place in Mozambique Island, is the fishing of sharks from which their fin is cut and illegally exported to China. A few Chinese men currently inhabit the Cinema premises and manage this business from there. No one talks about it, myths are built, questions are not posed, and these individuals continue to run a business that is in no way profitable for Mozambique Island or the country at large, except for the pockets of a few invisible individuals. * Political Complexities ?The political life on Mozambique Island is a little bit confused at the moment. We have an administration whose power depends on the state, governed by Frelimo. And we have a municipality run by another party, Renamo. We haven?t managed to achieve the ideal ? unify everyone in thinking about Mozambique Island, without political parties in mind. The feeling of doing the best for the island does not exist yet. But we are better than last year; at least now dialogue is possible. But the level of development of the population does not allow for these processes to be filtered in a way that people know when they are representing their party, or when they are working for the people.? Silv?rio Naoito Director of the Museum of Mozambique Island Ashworth and van der Aa (2006) argue that there is a growing and perhaps inevitable mismatch between commitment and resources. I would like to add, that in places like Mozambique the mismatch is not as linear. Besides an obvious and grand lack of financial and human resources, the commitment is unavailable from the National Government, UNESCO or the Local Government or Municipality. 80 ?This is an area where there is an elected Municipal president, and the elected president is autonomous. And he obeys to the autarchies laws, which say that his powers have limits. But then there is the District Administrator who also says ?I?ve got some power?. The powers are mixed. Then there is Unesco with its own laws ? they have the power to conserve historical monuments. Then there is the Ministry of Culture that has another power, over heritage. Things, like laws and powers, need to be separated.? Zainal (acting president of Association of Friends of Mozambique Island) As referred to above, Mozambique Island was never the target of the physicality and brutality of the civil war. Nevertheless, it suffered its consequences, becoming a refuge for thousands of individuals from the continental surrounding region. The Nampula province has historically been a region with a majority of its population supporting Renamo. In 2003, during the second Municipal elections of Mozambique, its Renamo candidate won the Presidency of the municipality. His name is Gulamo Mamudo21. ?We won the elections, but they are the bosses. They never thought that a member of Renamo could win the elections. They spent months insulting us in the streets, like mad people. They had it in their mind that Renamo could never win. Some people said they would move to other municipality, they complained to the governor, said they would take poison. And believe me, we have been target of many things from ministers, accountants, etc. We will be sons; we are stepsons.? Gulamo Mamudo President of the Municipal Council ?There aren?t many mature people amongst this population. This thing of making politics is a new thing in Mozambique. This thing of multiple parties is new.? Alfredo Matata District Administrator Mozambique Island has a Municipality, as well as a District Administration. While the Municipality is currently presided by a member of the Renamo Party, the District Administration represents the Central Government at district level, presently ruled by Frelimo. The presence of both parties in such a small town is filled with tension and conflict at various levels due to different factors. Firstly, due to the fact that, historically Renamo and Frelimo are strong rivals; secondly, their respective legislative and constitutional rights and duties are not always clearly understood or respected; and thirdly, the fact that Mozambique Island, being a World Heritage Site, attracts special attention from international bodies, foreign countries and national and provincial governments. The political conflict and tensions are visible and palpable at different levels in the island. The following paragraphs aim to touch on these in a descriptive manner, while the table that follows summarises the various sources of conflict. ?The Ministry of Culture is here, the government is here, the municipal council is here and each wants to know what the other is busy with. That?s why there is so much to do in Mozambique Island. We?ve already identified all the problems in Mozambique Island. We don?t need to talk anymore.? Zainal Acting president of the Association of the Friends of Mozambique Island ?In Mozambique Island we?ve got the Municipal Council that is presided by RENAMO Uni?o Eleitoral. I feel we?ve got no limitations, because according to the law it is very clear what is our responsibility and what is the responsibility of the municipal council.? Alfredo Matata 21 All my interview material is date of January and February 2007. The following municipal elections happened in November 2008, for which Gulamo Mamudo and Alfredo Matata were the candidates for the Presidency of the Municipality. In early December 2008, it was confirmed that Matata had won the elections21. Hundreds of people went to the streets singing Frelimo songs, waiving flags and celebrating, as this district has historically been strong Renamo supported. 81 District Administrator ?Thank God that I came psychologically prepared; otherwise I would get a stroke. The situation is very difficult. When we have a problem we go to the police or to count and as soon as they know we are coming for the municipality they don?t solve the problem.? Gulamo Mamudo President of the Municipal Council ?Between the Municipal Council and the District Administration there is dialogue when there are problems. When we need we go there, and when they need us they come here. Now there is no longer physical fighting. The war now is only verbal. We have good conversations, we?ve got good harmony, but each one does their own job, and that?s when there are problems. Then it comes to the Activities Plan, instead of them brining their plan here to the Municipal Council, no, they just want to implement it without let the Municipal Council know.? Imo Municipality?s Officer for Finances and Public Works Level Sub-level Conflict between Summary National level RENAMO FRELIMO Renamo and Frelimo were involved in a civil war for 17 years, fed and determined by neighbouring and other foreign states. The peace accords were signed in 1992 between Afonso Dlakhama and Joaquim Chissano, the party leaders. Frelimo has own every democratic elections since 1994. Renamo is the strongest opposing party in Parliament. Administrative Municipality Administration Administration represents the government at the level of the district; the Municipal Council manages the municipality. Mozambique Island is the capital of its district, and is a municipality. In the last municipal election Renamo own. The tension exists at project level, relationship with foreign and partner governments and at the level of implementation of activities. Civilians, governmental officials, service bureaucrats and the police force often feel caught between these political forces, not always sure who to please, or what to do. Local level Neighbourhood 2006 Appointed secretaries of neighbourhood 1975 Frelimo appointed secretaries of neighbourhood Frelimo elected secretaries of neighbourhood, according to a hierarchical system to maintain stability amongst the population. The Secretaries of neighbourhood represented the state at community level. Only a few years back was it declared that the new municipalities should elect their own representatives at neighbourhood level. Mozambique Island continues to have its 1975 elected secretaries, loyal to the administration and to Frelimo, as well as the recently appointed secretaries, loyal to the municipality and to Renamo. Frelimo institutionalised, after independence, the secret?rios de bairro, which translates to neighbourhood secretaries. These individuals represented the government at neighbourhood levels, having the responsibility to mobilise the community, liaise between the district government and the population, and resolve community conflicts. As the government was, and has since been, lead by Frelimo, these secretaries were members of Frelimo, and one way or another still represent Frelimo to this day. Under a new legislative act22, each Municipality has the right to appoint new secret?rios de bairro directly elected by the population itself. Clearly, in a recently established democracy this becomes a difficult scenario to manage, and also perhaps one in which both parties find themselves having the opportunity to continue the social/political conflict. 22 Name and number not available 82 ?We should integrate our efforts to look after this land, because we share the love for it, because it is our place, and that of our grandparents and great-grandparents.? Raul Matano Muss? and Amisse Ussaine Traditional Chiefs Photographed in front of Amisse?s house 83 ?This the real story: the secretaries that were here a long time ago, before they were in this autarchy, they were secretaries of Frelimo, they were not legitimated by the population. So, this municipal council decided we need our own neighbourhood secretaries to work for the government, not for the party. The secretaries were chosen by the population, because they are the ones that know who works well, and they invited the Municipal Council to legitimate their election. They were chosen by the population, we don?t know if they are Frelimo or Renamo, we were only called to legitimate. Given that the majority of the population in the district is Renamo, therefore? The district government don?t want to go low, they don?t want to lose, and they want to have continuity, because those all secretaries worked here long ago, when there was no money. Now they want to claim their salaries. They need to find ways of making these people happy, so they give them positions.? Imo Municipality?s Officer for Finances and Public Works Recently, in late 2006 the Municipality appointed the secret?rios de bairro elected by the different neighbourhoods, and in the same process, delegitimized the former secretaries of the administration. As a result, there are small conflicts and internal tensions amongst the population of the island. Individuals are not sure who to go to, and how to take care of their business; they are not sure who to listen to, take advise from or obey. Consequently, at a practical level, currently, if the municipality is aimed to implement a certain environmental programme, whoever is Frelimo might choose not to participate or even boycott the programme, which in addition slows down any pursuit to develop the island. ?The municipality gave us the role of being present when there is a funeral, of communicating, of supporting the orphans, the old aged, and other social responsibilities.? Abacar Faqui Amuri, Momade Abdul Amisse, Ussaine Ossane, Alfane Pilale, Abudo Swal? Abudo Municipality Neighbourhood Secretaries ?The municipality tries but they don?t manage. We follow according to traditional customs and rites. We were introduced in all the neighbourhoods as traditional chiefs, but it was the government that gave us a flag and the uniform. Then the municipality started getting upset and advising the population to not listen to us. We are respected by the community. We are respected by the old secretaries that worked with Frelimo. The recently elected secretaries trained by the Municipality are the ones that don?t respect them, because they were told that they are the bosses, and that they don?t have to respect us. But the community still respects us because they are still following the old traditional ways. Traditional chiefs don?t have a party, they work solely for the community.? Raul Matano Muss? and Amisse Ussaine Traditional Chiefs ?Here there are two different currents. Given that the municipality has its own people, that think the island belongs to them, then when the neighbourhood secretary says one thing, then the other secretary of the municipality says the opposite. So things don?t go very well. They either go in their favour, or in no one?s favour. There is conflict like this ? around the party. But not many people know about politics. They only know how to say a few random words. Politics is not to play with, it?s not for someone who did not study, it?s for someone tough who knows how to stir people.? Martinho Carola and Manuel At?pore Secretaries of Neighbourhood The Municipality and the Administration work independently on many projects. The Administration has been accused by the municipality of not consulting them regarding bigger projects brought to the island by international organisations and foreign governments. Furthermore, they accuse them of not always participating or legitimising the projects that the municipality wants to implement, intent on their failure. The impact of the above mentioned conflicts and political tensions on the island is beyond what can be seen. The various layers of conflict makes the management of the World Heritage of Mozambique Island difficult to administer, take forward, conceptualise and implement. When the two main administrative and 84 managing bodies in the island engage in permanent conflict, the projects that would benefit the island?s development will obviously be severely impacted. ?There is conflict between Renamo and Frelimo ? there is no union. People don?t want to work together, they want to make the other party weak.? Abacar Faqui Amuri, Momade Abdul Amisse, Ussaine Ossane, Alfane Pilale, Abudo Swal? Abudo Municipality Neighbourhood Secretaries ?The Administration representing the government are simply policeman. They are here to control the Municipal Councils. The government instituted this, because the truth is that where there is an autarchy there should not be another ruling institution. So, the Municipal Council has its officers and their arenas, and those arenas are included in the Administration. What happens is that in those institutions, when we want work we need to ask authorisation to the district government ? and it should not work like this. Long ago, the Municipal Council was the Municipal Council. There was no Governmental representation. This is something instituted by the government. Given that Renamo won this autarchy, they work with much strength here. They practically work to disallow the Municipal Council?s projects. Act 8/97 clearly says that it is the duty of the Municipality, but when we say that we want to work on the beach, and lock someone who was using the beach as a toilet, we reach the police quarters and the police doesn?t do anything. And even the police that work here, they don?t have a programme to look after the beaches. We have civil police and the maritime police, who respond to the government, and they should be looking after the beaches ? but they go for a walk and sit down. We are sorry for that. We need to work together. More so, the maritime police should be present in the beaches so that we could end the use of the beaches at a toilet once and for all. There should be police by the rubbish bins so that they would control where the rubbish is placed. The district government itself should be educated by the school teaches. We are going to carry on our projects and create a municipal police.? Imo Municipality?s Officer for Finances and Public Works The established conflict between these two parties, and their respective offices, added to a general lack of understanding of how a functioning democracy works, in which all stakeholders are listened to and participate in the decision-making regarding their lives is evident. There is a general lack of participation, which derives from the governance style at national to regional levels. This impacts directly on the manner in which the islanders relate to their social and political surroundings in terms of their seeking better livelihoods and being proactive in making their lives? increase in quality. ?The big problem of Mozambique Island is a non-participative way of working. If there was more participation; there would be more control. Instead now there is no basis to point fingers.? Momade Noor Khan Imam of Central Mosque The lack of involvement of important stakeholders such as the association and business people that are also partly responsible for the development of the island is further indicative of the dismissal of any parties outside formal politics. ?If there are associations that want to do something, they are also blocked. Obstacles are created. [?] I feel, and my associations feel, that the Municipality has not yet seen how important these associations are and can be for the success and development of this island. They see us like rivals, like the opposition. [?] It worries and hurts me a lot, that the officials from the municipality have never visited the private business people. Just to know how we are doing, not for financial support, but moral support. There is only contact when it comes to new rules or taxes. They should thank all the private business people, national or foreign, for that what they are doing for the island. But they never did, and development is not possible without dialogue, when there is not space to express worries or points of view.? Flora Maria de Pinto Magalh?es President of the Tourism Association 85 In less visible realms, there are countless flows and their respective networks that exist and have a real impact on the life of individuals of the island. Personal projects and gains get in the way of the development of the island, from national to local level. The administration of personal goals takes precedent over that of community goals. I believe that the added value and attention that Mozambique Island receives in relation to other districts in Mozambique due to its World Heritage Status, brings further interests from those who govern it, in a country where corruption, lying and obscure manoeuvres have become the unfortunate norm. I just came back from interviewing Imo. Once the recording device was off he goes on to tell me juicy confidences. He tells me he?s not like the others who are here in the municipality. He?s got a vision. He?s benefiting from being here ?big time?. He?s not wasting his time. Imo goes on to tell me how he has made loads of contacts with foreign investors ?that?s what he?s gaining from being in the Municipal Council ? networking for his own tourism investments in the mainland. He just bought land to make a small landing strip for an airport in Lumbo. He?s planning to open three resorts. Not just any time of resort! ?Cause now he knows what type of thing big people want, he knows what type of luxury people are after. I walked all the way home sweating more than usual. This is real after all. This way of thinking; this entitlement; I worry. * Economic Complexities Heritage is an economic activity in itself, an industry commodifying past structures, associations and cultural productivity and trading these for an economic return that can be measured in jobs, profits or incomes? (Graham et al. 2000: 157). ?Do you think Mozambique Island should need donations? I say it doesn?t. What we needed was a push at government level. Without tourism, the development of the island will be a very arduous and slow process. Now they say they will open the millennium village. I say ?OK and so what??. You take population from here to there and then ? what about work? What is the factory or jobs we have available in Mozambique Island? Where is it? Do we have any factory? We could say that the factory we have is fishing ? everyone is linked to fishing one way of another. We?ve got 30000 inhabitants ? surviving on what? There is no work! How many institutions do we have here? How many construction companies? Let?s say that Mozambique Island has 2000 employed individuals, and what about the rest? What do those people live off? Where have you seen a country that has developed itself out of fishing? Fishing has never developed anything! Here there should be enough production to export and make a profit.? Zainal Acting president of the Association of the Friends of Mozambique Island Currently, according to all my interviewees, the island is going through a dramatic phase of lack of employment, which severely decreases the quality of life that the islanders enjoy. The closed down cotton, oil, soap and cashew nut factories have had a great impact on the islanders, as they used to employ a great number of male population. As earlier described, the closure of businesses and their warehouses, as well as government services also had a negative impact on the economic status of the islanders. ?The quality of life in Mozambique life is not that good. The majority of the population depends on fishing. The majority of the women don?t do anything. So when fish doesn?t die there are many difficulties. There are only a few fishermen that have a more economically stable project. This doesn?t even come to be considered a medium economy ? but people are able to survive. It could even seem that people here live well, because they have fish. But the truth is that the cost of life here is very high. People don?t have food in their homes. And they don?t have some food reserved in the house; they don?t have an organised kitchen. People have an old system, because they don?t have such a thing as agriculture. They don?t worry about having to organise their kitchen needs ? there isn?t that culture of 86 thinking of tomorrow. If you give 20 kilos of maize to someone here they will think it?s too much. There isn?t any management. And this is the way people live here ? it?s highly complicated. Once we were training some women about household management, and the teachers from the University were teaching that we need to know how many kilos of maize we need per month, per year. If you buy every day, bit by bit, you end up spending much more. That?s another problem. Here in Mozambique Island, we?ve done an average, people spend US$1 a day. People here is the island have one meal a day ? besides that only small meals, like tea and some cookies.? Alfredo Matata District Administrator The economic difficulties faced by the majority of the population of Mozambique Island has a series of consequences at social level, impacting on facets of education and public health, amongst others. The fact that the island was once the capital of the country, later becoming the capital of the province, and currently just being a town and district capital, influences the economic investment that it receives. Its coastal resources, including its harbour, previously attracted investment; nowadays, world heritage status seems to be the biggest resource that Mozambique Island could possibly benefit from, if this were well conserved, restored and managed by the appropriate institutions and the residents of this island. Currently, the state of poverty in which most individuals are living Mozambique Island is worrying from a human point of view, and has a definitive negative impact on the present state of the World Heritage of Mozambique Island. ?Here we always live in very tight circumstances. We live here because we are used to it now.? Mussagi Fakir Imam of first mosque of Mozambique ?I think that the level of life here is static ? there is no development whatsoever.? Cristina Lu?s Director of Mozambique Island?s High School ?We are living just because.? Iaquibo Ali and Atomane Ussaine Imams from Macuti Mosques ?A majority of our population has a farm, but that farm is the sea.? Luciano Ant?nio Jos? Chane General Secretary of OJM ?We are living in very bad conditions here, very isolated. Dawn comes and we don?t have anything to eat, and we don?t know what we will get to eat during the day. And life, in a way, is about eating.? Momade Mussaji , Atomanhe Amad, Ahamada Ahamada, Assane Abudu, Issufu Muaji , Momade Shali , Abdula Sale Sufi Sheikhs ?We depend on the continent. Here we only have fish. But we lack other products, like cassava, rice. All those have to come form elsewhere. And those products have the tendency to be expensive. [At the same time] cooked food here is very cheap. You can buy a meal for 5MTS. So many people don?t worry, they go to the nocturnal market and eat there. It?s normal that a meal you buy for 10MTS to be eaten for a whole family in a house. Luciano Ant?nio Jos? Chane General Secretary of OJM ?I am living here, because I don?t have anywhere else to go. It?s difficult to be here., but I have to bear with it. I have to stay, I?ve got family here also. The people whose livelihoods are based on fishing, and those women that sell beads and little biscuits are ok, but the rest just stay like that, with nothing. For money to come in here it means that the boats brought fish. Then there are people here that buy fish to go sell in Nampula, in Monapo, to resell. But when there is no fish everyone crosses their arms ? without fish one can?t cook.? Cariba Abubacar Abdala Mante, Abdul-Remane Sahide Sheikh Ame, Jo?o Faquir, Ali Muss?, Abdal Momade Cultural Groups 87 ?There is not employment in Mozambique Island. The kids go to school, but then they don?t have a job, they become fisherman.? Cariba Abubacar Abdala Mante, Abdul-Remane Sahide Sheikh Ame, Jo?o Faquir, Ali Muss?, Abdal Momade Cultural Groups The existence of such businesses such as the coral and shark fin exportation are examples of economic activities in Mozambique Island which are less visible and definitely not part of the formal economy of the region, although they do have an impact on decision-making regarding its future, as well an effect on the future state of its social, economic and environmental aspects. Prostitution of minors and paedophilia are also spoken about by a few, as direct consequences of tourism. ?Here we don?t have a doctor that operates. We have to go from here to Monapo, from Monapo to Nacala, from there to Nampula ? the person arrives dead. We need a doctor that can operate on people. For just a small thing they tell us to go to Monapo, they say ?no, that one needs to go to Nacala?. In Nacala they say ?we can?t treat that one, he?s got to go to Nampula?. He arrives there dead already ? dies along the way.? Martinho Carola and Manuel At?pore Secretaries of Neighbourhood ?It?s normal for a tourist to arrive here and walk around with a gang of children behind his back. Those children sustain their families. They live off the money they gather in the streets.? Gulamo Mamudo President of the Municipal Council The exploration of under water archaeological sites by the Arqueonautas is not a transparent exercise. It is said that 50% of all requested by their teams is theirs to sell or merchandise as they please. The other 50% should belong to the Government of Mozambique. In addition, there is next to no monitoring making sure what is brought to the surface is shared between the Government and the Arqueonautas in all fairness. The group of people responsible for much of this destruction has many of the characteristics of a distinct subculture, with its own division of labour, oral traditions, folklore, and worldview. It lies outside the sphere of the state amateur archaeological organisations. Some members, particularly the large collectors, are active participants in the larger society. [?] Methods for gaining access to archaeological sites vary, and reflect a wide range of attitudes regarding landowners, the concept of private property and the justification for digging. [?] There are diggers whose primary goal is money. [?] The second group in this subculture is dealers who buy and sell artefacts on both the wholesale and retain level. (Early 1999: 43) Without sufficient protection the criminal scene operating in the background of the international art market can develop further. Many archaeological sites continue to be plundered by illegal excavations, and the illicit traffic of works of art represents a continuous loss of cultural goods that from a preservation perspective should be preserved on their original site (Michael Petzet; ICOMOS 2000: 10). Two things must happen to effectively deal with antiquities trafficking. The opportunity to destroy sites must be limited, and the public atmosphere that sanctions grave robbing must be changed. (Early 1999: 46) In what concerns the economy of the island, I should also mention the lack of capacity that is evident in the management of funds made available to local managing institutions. The allocation of funds does not always have the benefit of the population of the island as the goal. This mismanagement of funds should be looked at more in-depth, with the aim of creating ways of training and monitoring the spending that 88 ?We need a doctor that can operate people. For just a small thing they tell us to go to Monapo, then they say ?no, that one needs to go to Nacala?. In Nacala they say ?we can?t treat that one, he?s got to go to Nampula?. He arrives there dead already ? dies along the way.? Martinho Carola and Manuel At?pore Secretaries of Neighbourhood; Photographed together in Esteu, Macuti Town and in front of their respective favourite buildings, the hospital and the church 89 happens at municipal and district levels. Another issue that became evident from some of my interviews was the involvement and control of certain businesses by foreign individuals, with the effect of pushing local, less rich business people, away from lucrative opportunities. ?If a foreigner comes to live here, it is to explore, he doesn?t come to teach. The Tanzanians came for money. They came to establish transport companies ? and the government is permitting it.? Zainal Acting president of the Association of the Friends of Mozambique Island * Social Complexities Mozambique Island is inhabited by an unknown number of individuals. It is estimated that about 30 000 individuals reside in this island. Throughout the years, the population moves in and out of the island, together with the religious practices and beliefs, the level of economic empowerment, the political ruling and the state of political affairs in the country, have determined and influenced the social context of the island. ?A free life, without worries. Children here go to the streets on their own, to the beach even on their own, and the parents are not worried about accidents, robberies or drowning.? Here one grows up with freedom. Flora Maria de Pinto Magalh?es President of the Tourism Association The island is known to have a laid back ambience. Residents greet each other in the streets, with greeting of peace ? Assalam Waleikum, to which others reply Waleikum Salaam; children can be very affable towards tourists; throughout the day men sit playing ntchuva; women sit down outside their houses chatting with each other, washing clothes, tending to their children, chatting to each other, observing the passers-by, praying, and gossiping. The lack of employment means that one sees many people on the side of the street, outside their homes, in what sometimes seems to be waiting. ?There is one more detail:, even when someone is able to get a job, he will have difficulty in working with discipline. I wouldn?t say they are lazy, but as a habit it seems they have the tendency to run away from work. They don?t take maximum advantage of the opportunities that come their way.? Silv?rio Naoito (Director of the Museum of Mozambique Island) ?Not even 4 km. People prefer to sit down from morning to evening ? I respect and like women ? but to spend their lives brushing their hair, till 21h/22h they are brushing? And if a woman is married, if she works, at the end of month, if she is a teacher or working for the government, she?s got to have a new capulana (cloth). Every month she?s got to have a new one. If she doesn?t have a new one for three month in a row, that?s a strong motive to ask for a divorce.? Alfredo Matata (District?s Administrator) I am greeted by my neighbours as I exit the building where I am staying in the early morning. They are outside their houses. One fixes her daughter?s hair, the other washes clothes aided by her elder daughter, another breastfeeds her small child. Later in the day, at 15h I arrive back to rest. It?s been a long day of walking and interviewing. Mr. Issufo walks me back. We have a small discussion regarding what we did, and tomorrow?s day. As he leaves, I notice my neighbours are sitting down on a straw mat, all chatting, all sitting elegantly with their legs stretched out fatly on the ground. 90 They are talking about the children they have left behind, almost as though they speak of a past live. They all have children that presently don?t live with them ? some are with their mothers, others with sisters or aunties. It seems to be normal practice, and I am the only one looking puzzled. I take a picture of them, as the camera was still around my neck from a previous interview. They smile shyly and complain they are not beautified enough. I smile back and put the camera down. Then one of them, a voluptuous and beautiful woman in her early 30s, confesses to an old dream of being a model, ever since she saw a modelling contest on TV in the late nineties. I ended up taking more than 100 snap shots of her, including her sitting, and walking, as though the streets of this island were a catwalk. I went up to rest, after a while, and my neighbours remained there, talking, until the sunset. Mozambique Island is known for a specific type of ?dance? called tufo. This was initially associated with religious praise, perhaps manifesting the long tradition of dancing in rites of passage and other ceremonies in a profoundly Islamic environment. In this light, tofu was practice by women, of a certain age, who publicly praised the prophet Muhammad, and his companions. The dance was performed in a group, where women, sitting down would sway at the sound of their chanting. The only instruments accompanying the singing were drums, both played by men and/or women. The swaying would entail the movement of the shoulders back and forth, in a rather elegant, gentle and slow rhythm. The women alternated from sitting on their knees to standing on their knees. Their dress code was composed of a long sleeved top, a long wrap skirt and a headscarf ? all elements matching. This morning I heard that the governor of Nampula Province is arriving later in the day. My neighbour mentioned that there would be Tofu dancing in commemoration. The whole day I tried to investigate where this would take place. Someone said it would be on the Nautical Club, around the corner from my place. After sunset I could start hear people moving towards there, I covered myself in mosquito repellent, organised my camera and lenses and left my house accompanied by a few neighbouring children. When we arrived the governor?s wife was making a small thank you speech. And, after a few minutes, the tufo groups started dancing, one by one, in colours, patterns and sounds, taking me high into another rhythm of the night. ?We dance when the government comes, like the president, or a minister, we receive something, and we perform until the day they leave.? Cariba Abubacar Abdala Mante, Abdul-Remane Sahide Sheikh Ame, Jo?o Faquir, Ali Muss?, Abdal Momade Cultural Groups Figures 30 and 31: My neighbours and their children Figures 32, 33, 34 and 35: One of my neighbours modelling for the camera 91 Nowadays, tufo dancing has somewhat changed in varied ways, including the rhythm, the purpose, the dancing choreography, the clothes, and its social and religious meanings. After independence, the new government of Frelimo prohibited religious practices, given its atheist status. Tufo chanting and singing was modified to praise the government and its officials instead. Currently, the various tufo dance groups in Mozambique Island perform on demand, mostly to welcome high profile politicians, both Frelimo and Renamo. They are paid to perform, so that the costs of buying new cloths for the entire group can be covered, as women do not like to perform too many times with the same cloths (capulanas). All tufo groups function under an organised social group, with a hierarchy, most often presided by a man. Each group has a rehearsal location, where women gather once to twice a week to practice, finances are discussed, new memberships deliberated and choreographies rehearsed. In terms of its rhythm and choreography, tufo dancing continues to be based on singing and drumming, but now also includes standing and jumping. The rhythm has become faster, resembling the traditional music of the south, marrabenta. In light of the above described, the social and religious meaning the tufo (is it tufo or tofu?) dancing holds presently in the island, has changed since before independence. Tufo dancing has come to represent the principal cultural practice of Mozambique Island, on a national scale. Locally, it does not hold a coherent religious meaning; its piety has been replaced with nationalism, even being open to new rhythms and ways of moving the body. ?I have noticed that in the Macuti neighbourhood the Macuti roofed houses are disappearing. A lot of people do another type of construction, and that is not going to help identifying the island with before. Another thing that is disappearing are the utensils that are also part of the island?s heritage. Even tufo is disappearing, because the tufo of before is not life the tufo of now. Now it seems more like marrabenta [dance from the south of Mozambique, with a quicker rhythm]. Before the songs were slow and Islamic. Now they dance it like modern music. Everything is becoming modern. Those tufo groups are disappearing.? Cristina Lu?s Director of Mozambique Island?s High School ?I think firstly it?s important to rehabilitate the ruins. There are ruins in Mozambique Island where four or five families live. Each family with children. Promiscuity starts there ? when one is making love, the other is listening. Everything is shared. Some of the rooms are divided by hanging cloth. Many times children watch their parents making love.? Silv?rio Naoito Director of the Museum of Mozambique Island Given the religious presence in the island, and due to a well preserved and managed set of hierarchical social classes, the island enjoyed the understanding that good social values were practiced and shared. During the colonial period the houses in Stone Town and Macuti Town were taken care of according to a pre-established schedule, which gave a sense of care and rhythm to the public life regarding the Figures 36, 37 and 38: Cultural group performing tufo for the governor of Nampula 92 conservation of public and private propriety. Social values were kept through this social and religious hierarchy. Nevertheless, in more recent years, elders have started complaining about the lack of social values that the youth manifest socially and in their relationships with their parents and elders in general. The lack of respect to the environment is also mentioned as a problem. Individuals mention that the youth and the children are growing up too loose and without proper education from their parents, being able to do as they please. In addition, looking from a national perspective, the introduction of a compulsory educational curriculum, which all citizens are obliged to take part in, opened a new way of being, which in fact is not as regulated by social and religious values as the madrasas were and continue to be. The introduction of TV (including DVD players) has added a new layer of reality, acting as a catalyst to modernity in the island. Hip-hop music and style of dressing is nowadays not foreign to much of the youth. Clothes are bought in the second hand markets, and some of youth are careful to imitate their favourite music stars, using big sneakers and rapper hats. In addition, the introduction of Wahabism (more on this sect of Islam below) also brought open conflict into the religious realm, challenging many of the practices and the beliefs that for my generations sustained the social life of the residents of Mozambique Island. ?A while back, people here in the island didn?t want to study. If we look at numbers of students and their origin, there are only a few that are from here. The majority comes from Nampula, and stay in the residency. Only at junior school level is the culture of studying starting. They used to say that studying doesn?t give happiness to anyone.? Cristina Lu?s Director of Mozambique Island?s High School I am sitting down near my house. Kids play around me as the sun sets and the mosquitoes invade the air. Abacar walks by with a girl, he greets me with a big smile. His baggy basketball t-shirt hangs close to his knees, meeting his very baggy basketball shorts which hang under his calve muscles, and some massive white, very white trainers, unlaced, on his feet. ?Waleikum salaam? I tell him in reply. He quickly indicates his just walking his cousin home, and will be at the mosque for ?ishah prayer soon inshAllah? I smile, while the kids stroke and braid my hair. Sex work is talked about, although taboo. It is not something that the islanders were used to from before. They speak about it with low voices, as if talking about a secret. Others simply do not know about its existence. It is believed that tourism has accelerated the growth of the market, and not only are some tourists engaged in illicit activities such as sex with teenagers, but that small boys are also being victims of paedophilic networks. None of this has yet been proven, but some people spoke of it with absolute certainty, in informal conversations. The worry is that such occurrences in spaces of severe poverty are more allowed by the families involved as they have a trade off that could benefit a whole family. My other worry is that I do not think that either the administration or municipality are prepared or keen to tackle such problematic situations. These tend to involve high power individuals who, in places like Mozambique, tend to have their needs heard, and their actions guarded, in exchange for some money, a ruin, a plot, a child?s education, a motorbike. ?There are 12 year-old children prostituting themselves. There is a girl name Maria Puta (Mary Whore), without breasts, just 10 years old. The school director tried to see who her parents were, to learn about the kid?s problems, but she had no success. There is a group of them! They want bread. They prostitute themselves fro 50 MTS or 20 MTS. Do you think this is normal? I don?t think it is correct. It irritates me to see it. I?ve got daughter the same age. Where is the code, the education? There isn?t. But I speak about Mozambique Island as I 93 could speak about Maputo. It?s a life of survival There is no law in Mozambique against sex or sex workers ? there isn?t one.? Zainal Acting president of the Association of the Friends of Mozambique Island * Religious Complexities Presently, Mozambique Island is a very religious city, with the majority its population adhering to Islamic practices and beliefs. In its small area, the island houses five mosques, eight zawias, four churches and one Hindu temple. Throughout history, this island became increasingly known and proud of the religious tolerance in which its residents live. Notwithstanding, when looking closely one identifies complexities that are constantly changing ? being shaped and shaping the social tissue of this island in positive and challenging ways. The following paragraphs explore the main events regarding the religious life of Mozambique Island, followed by an identification and exploration of the religious complexities that the island currently lives with. Prior to the arrival of the first Arabs on Mozambique Island and the surrounding area, in the 13th century, it is believed its inhabitants practiced pagan religions, where the world of the living and that of the dead intercepted greatly and where one gave meaning to the other. The first Arabs to arrive had business intentions, not making efforts to colonise or appropriate the land. With time, their religious practices and beliefs became accepted by the Swahili/Macua population, who largely became Muslim. By the time the Portuguese sailors arrived in the late 15th century, most of the continental population was Muslim, and remain until today. It seems that the construction of churches and nunneries did not attract or change the adherence to Islam. In the contrary, when, during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, prominent Islamic leaders ? sheikhs ? arrived in Mozambique Island from the Comoros, Zanzibar and Yemen, introducing a new facet of Islam, one which concentrates on Sufi practices and beliefs, the adherence and spirit of Islam grew to previously unseen dimensions. Sufi Brotherhoods or Orders23 were formed, attracting large numbers of women and men from both the island and its continental surroundings. These new practices included large festivities for the commemoration of Eid24, and the Prophet?s birthday. Various orders were created in the island associated with different sheikhs (for e.g. the Cadaria Sadate, the Chadulia, amongst others). The orders consist of social groups that meet weekly to perform dhikr25 (remembrance of Allah) through chatting and body swaying. They follow a specific Shehe, who is considered to be the spiritual leader of its followers. These Sufi orders were very strong social groups until the late eighties, when the political and religious spheres changed significantly as a result of international and national influences. 23 Brotherhood, or tariqa (in Arabic), 24 Eid means celebration in Arabic, and is commonly used for the two main celebrations in the Islamic calendar. 25 Dhikr means remembrance in Arabic and is used to refer to the gathering of people on a specific day with the intention of remembering Allah, through poetry reading, chatting and swaying of the body. Furthermore, it is linking to Sufi (exoteric) practices of Islam, in which the brotherhood meets and makes dhikr. Both women and men participate and it is usually led by a sheikh and/or a khalifa. 94 In the early nineties, a new stream of Islam came to the Island called wahabism26, founded by ? ibn Abd- al-Wahhab. This new stream, originating from Saudi-Arabia is openly different and sometimes against the existing Sufi27 practices and tendencies Muslims in the island held dear until its arrival. Upon arrival, the representatives of wahabism set up a mosque next to the central mosque of the island, starting a conflict that exists until today. Wahabism is against the brotherhoods, the performance of dhikr, the visits to the graveyards, and any other cultural practices appropriated from their Swahili heritage. In addition, wahabism privileges the men against the women, which Sufism does not, always having a sheikh28 and a Khalifa29 for every tariqa. Eid day is established through the sight of the new moon. It is meant to be as close to nature as possible, guided through the moon cycle. Khalid and I have recently arrived on the island, being somewhat unaware of the divergences between the two mosques, and what they represented. As Eid approaches we are told by different people when it will be. We find it strange as normally one same location shares the commemoration, given that the sight of the moon should be the same. As we want to be at the Morning Prayer, and we are unsure which faction to follow, we end up going on the 31st of December to one mosque and on the first day of the year to the other. I am worried about the leaders of the mosques linking me to one of the Islamic practices, as they are both to become by interviewees and informants. Throughout our stay it becomes clearer to me that it is ok for me to choose what Islam I practice and believe in. With time, since the early nineties, wahabism started attracting more and more men, and the tariqa practices started decreasing in popularity, except for those practiced by women. This internal politics are very real, and individuals often talk about the pre and post- wahabi phases of the island, with deep 26 Wahabism is a conservative form of Sunni Islam that follows the teaching of Muhammad ibn Abd-al-Wahhad, an 18th century scholar from what is today known as Saudi Arabia, who advocated a return to the practices of the first three generations of Islamic History. 27 Sufism refers to the facet of Islam that turns inwards to the spirit; each student of Sufism (murid) needs a sheikh who guides him or her through the struggle to fight the ego (nuffs). Followers of Sufism seek to closer personal relationship with God through special spiritual disciplines. 28 Sheikh refers to the male individual that guides students through their inner journey to conquer their ego; sheikhs receive permission to teach and guide through their own sheikhs in a given brotherhood. 29 Khalifa in Mozambique Island is the woman who leads the female part of the tariqa or brotherhood; like the sheikh, she has students who she guides, she leads the dhikr and it the spiritual leader for her group Figures 39, 49, 41 and 42: First mosque of Mozambique, A Mesquita da Ru?na 95 longing for the strongly tight social systems that the brotherhoods developed and sustained. Interestingly, the men are now drawn to wahabism, while the women are the ones maintaining the Sufi practices in the island and the continental surroundings. They have maintained their zawias30, taking care of them, using them as a communal prayer facility, as well as performing dhikr twice every week ? once for rehearsal and another time as the practice itself. ?We did have rivalry. But now we are almost OK. The only thing that has been left, is Eid. We always have it on different days. This is quite difficult because a while ago we used to observe the moon from here and from Mussoril or Monapo [in the mainland]. There is communication. Now there is no communication. They follow Mecca. Because they have their own brotherhood, their own community. While we still wait for the moon, or for information from our headquarters in Maputo or Nampula.? Abdul Rahim Ali Momade Director of Madrasa Babu Salaam ?There have been many problems between the community and ourselves; we have had divergences. There were problems, and there will always be problems. Our doctrine is different, and some people accept that and others don?t. In Mozambique we follow Mecca and that presents difficulties. Each party has its reasoning.? Ibraimo Muss? Imam of the Islamic Council Mosque ?The Wahabi are cutting us, they don?t respect us. When we want to read the Koran when someone dies, they say it?s prohibited. When we have a ceremony and cook rice, they say it?s illicit. They don?t us to have maulide, and that dhikir is prohibited; in the month of Ramadan they want to introduce their own calendar, they don?t follow the lunar month. When we say Eid is tomorrow, they commemorate it today.? Momade Mussaji , Atomanhe Amad, Ahamada Ahamada, Assane Abudu, Issufu Muaji , Momade Shali , Abdula Sale Sufi Sheikhs 30 Zawyia refers to the house where the brotherhood meets to practice dhikr. Each brotherhood has their own zawyia in Mozambique Island, some brotherhoods having one for males and another for females. Figures 42, 43, 44, 45, and 46: Central mosque (green) and the wahabi mosque (red) next to it. 96 Regarding the other religions practices in Mozambique Island, Catholicism continues to have a somewhat steady following. It is estimated that 4% of the population is Catholic. The island has one priest that gives mass everyday and on Sunday mornings. While the priests were previously Italian and Portuguese, currently there is a Mozambican priest. The Hindu Temple occupies a large area of the island, close to the central market; one Hindu family that remains on the island for the sole purpose of maintaining this temple. My young friends tell me stories of the Hindu temple. While we have an afternoon fanta anan?s, they speak amongst themselves and with me, suggesting how brave they have been in the past, and how they ventured into the Hindu temple. ?But my mom doesn?t know, uhhh if she knew?isshhhee?. I ask why she would be upset and he explains that the Hindu temple has spirits living in it, in the trees, and quickly adds, that the trees also have delicious fruits. They speak with gestures and loud voices, from standing to sitting, they swear on Allah they are telling true stories about how they went in and saw a snake, and how they sneaked in and saw ghosts. I?m rather curious myself. Although from a first view there seemed to be strict rules of engagement in religious practices, I observed and spoke with a few individuals who are not really Muslim or Christian, and yet are allowed to practice both, and to create their own path. In-depth research on the religious lives of the men and women of this island would be an invaluable project that I recommend be taken forward immediately. Oral histories, biographical narratives, the intersection between different religious practices, between Islamic understanding, and Macua rites of passages are important resources that tell of the unique manner individuals from this island have construct and continue to construct their worlds. ?When I came to the island I inserted myself in an Islamic group, in the Islamic culture. I even go to the mosque, but I am Catholic. But because I did not want to feel like an outsider, I didn?t want to feel out of place. Because people could look at me like, ?oh look there goes the director, she doesn?t know how to speak Macua, she wears shoes, wears pants?, but I didn?t want that. I wanted them to look at me like a woman. Like a person who has come from the local culture from here and I have managed that.? Cristina Lu?s Director of Mozambique Island?s High School The continuous rivalry between the two Islamic groups above-mentioned continues to have more and less visible manifestations. New social forms, which are not yet visible, are being formed; where brotherhoods were previously the basis for the formation of social and religious networks, their absence will certainly give way to new networks. * World Heritage Complexities of Mozambique Island World Heritage Site inscription can be the impetus for cooperation and collaboration among key stakeholders, but also the complexities and animosities can lead to atrophy and inaction (Millar 2006: 44). The complexity of heritage lies in the fact that it links the past, the present and the future together in such a clear and practical manner. It evokes everything that people want to save now from the past, so that it carries on existing in the future, from material culture to nature. In addition, identities are made of public and private heritages (Howard 2003: 1), the city we live, the monuments we relate to, the special earrings 97 we inherited from a grandmother, the language we speak, certain cultural rituals we perform, amongst others. In Mozambique Island, there are added complexities, in comparison with other Mozambican districts, due to the fact it is a World Heritage Site. This section aims to explore the complexities regarding the management and conservation of Mozambique Island, by firstly looking at the way the World Heritage of the island is conserved and managed at a practical level, and secondly, by focusing on the complexities described in the above sections that mostly impact the state of the World Heritage of Mozambique Island. As described in the Political Complexities, Mozambique Island does not have a clear power hierarchy, or a strong body to filter decision-making regarding the restoration, maintenance or conservation of the ruins, houses, public spaces such as parks, schools and other physical heritage. GACIM was created in 2007, instituted by the National Ministry of Education and Culture. This office aims to give technical advise to the Municipal Council on the conservation and restoration of the World Heritage of Mozambique Island. The advisory responsibilities do not include the implementation of rules and regulations, which is the duty of the Municipal Council according to the current national legislation31. GACIM meets fortnightly; its technical committee consists of the director of the Museum, the technical staff of GACIM, the architect that represents UNESCO on the island, a representative of the Municipal Council, a representative of the District Administration and another representative of the Association of the Friends of Mozambique Island. ?The World Heritage of Mozambique Island is managed by the Ministry of Education and Culture. Within that Ministry there is the Division of Culture which is full-time dedicated to heritage.? Alfredo Matata District Administrator Although GACIM gives technical advice, and the Municipal Council has legislative power to act upon GACIM?s advice regarding the conservation and restoration activities that private and public bodies wish to take forward in the island, the power of 30 000 individuals seems to me to be bigger then that of the Municipal Council and their decision-making, especially in a place where the duties, rights and responsibilities of the managing institutions is not functional. ?I seem to think that GACIM will have a monitoring role, so that all reconstructions are done according to the World Heritage principles, so that the original context of each building is kept, and to guarantee that buildings are rehabilitated in the old fashion, so that the visual aspect of the island is not changed, because this is what awarded the island its status. This World Heritage Site has its own style and we need to preserve it. I think that GACIM is responsible for that, perhaps also to determine which buildings should be prioritised. The people that should do this should be technicians, engineers, architects. And only UNESCO can be responsible for that, because locally we do not have that capacity.? Silv?rio Naoito Director of the Museum of Mozambique Island ?There are certain things that are not being followed, because of that thing called modernity or globalisation, I don?t know. But that depends on ourselves, of course, the islanders. We used to see the majority of the houses here in Macuti, with Macuti roofs, but today other materials are used. Stone town is better controlled then Macuti Town, because of a certain aesthetic that needs to be maintained.? Luciano Ant?nio Jos? Chane General Secretary of OJM 31 For extract on relevant acts from the City Council Code, refer to Appendix 5 98 ?Before they were using lime and clay, stone, and today they are using cement. Why? Let?s see where there is lime? Where there is stone? Where can we get that stone and that lime? Who is that builder who knows how to make a house like before. It?s very difficult.? Abdul Rahim Ali Momade Director of Madrasa Babu Salaam ?We need a municipal law that when someone gets a plot he or she is obliged to start building within a short amount of time, otherwise risking the loss of ownership. Because the truth is that a lot of these ruins belong to people well placed in the social and political hierarchy of Maputo.? Silv?rio Naoito Director of the Museum of Mozambique Island ?Another component is that Mozambique Island is World Heritage, proposed by UNESCO and accepted by the national government. There are rules that are not district?s rules, but that are universal. And those are not dynamic ? they are conceptualised from afar. I agree with the existence of those rules, but they have to be flexible. You cannot referee a game that you are not watching! And I think that the central government has realised this already, but because they are in Maputo, and we are the only ones here, we are the ones feeling it. If we say that the architecture of these houses has to obey to their old sense of architecture, I agree, but it is true that that architecture will be respected in all these houses? Why don?t we maintain that old architecture in the historical buildings? What is going happen in 10 or 20 years with this new youth? That old architecture entails that even to reconstruct you have to use lime, and not cement. To put it water over a period of six months, so that the lime can become gluey. Our youth will not be able to carry that type of construction in Mozambique Island. Where are we going like this? This needs an intervention from UNESCO ? this needs money, this kind of rehabilitation is not cheap. It is not practical in terms of costs, and what?s going to happen is that some of the houses are going to start falling.? Alfredo Matata District Administrator On Mozambique Island, physical heritage can be divided into the following types of ownership: [1] houses bought by foreigners who are restoring them to use as profitable and non-profitable ventures; [2] houses bought by foreigners waiting to be restored, currently inhabited by local individuals, without appropriate housing conditions such as working toilets or running water; [3] houses owned by local individuals who have been able to restore them and are maintaining them; [4] houses owned by local individuals who cannot restore them and who await a good offer to sell to Mozambican nationals or foreigners, [5] houses that belong to the city council, most of which are not restored or maintained, [6] buildings that are public property that are being restored through the funding of foreign organisations and countries, [7] buildings that are public property that have been restored but are not being adequately maintained, [8] buildings that are public property that have not been restored, and [9] buildings and houses that have collapsed Figures 47 and 48: Two semidetached houses, where one has been restored and other remains as a ?ruin? 99 and are not restorable or liveable. I believe that within the management plan, it is key to make an assessments of how many buildings fall into what categories, and where these are located on the island. ?Every ruin is someone?s property. You won?t find a ruin without an owner. But it should be that either the owner chooses to rehabilitate or he?ll have to abandon and give opportunity to someone else. This place is full of ruins, but they are all occupied, but they don?t do anything of them, so why not give the opportunity to someone who has the resources to do so? I don?t know.? Momade Gulamo Issufo President of Association of Sunni Muslims ?I complained about Cam?es house ? we asked the government ?please don?t sell that house?. The restaurant Escondidinho was the place where slaves were traded. ?Don?t sell those buildings; they are important buildings for us?. No one moves an inch. I wrote a letter ? there is a foreigner here buying houses, changing them. Today I see the law and I start laughing: will they implement that law?? Zainal Acting president of the Association of the Friends of Mozambique Island ?They have been rehabilitating. But when the building is old, it?s difficult to recuperate until it gets young again. That?s what I think. No one can fix me to look like you do now [speaking to me]. But something can be done.? Martinho Carola and Manuel At?pore Secretaries of Neighbourhood ?There are people here that have the capacity of fixing the facades of their houses and just don?t do it. Because ultimately there is no pressure.? Flora Maria de Pinto Magalh?es President of the Tourism Association In all of this, the intangible heritage of Mozambique Island is barely recognised, mostly forgotten, not mentioned by UNESCO or the local authorities. The individuals that inhabit this island, those who live in a state of poverty, but who at the end of day, hold the history of this island in their memory and its future in their actions, are not protected or taken care of. Oral history projects are not heard of, the artisans are dying with their art; modern ways come to substitute the old ones without archiving them. In addition, religious and cultural practices are not being studied in their depth and greater contribution to our society. ?There are those very old people ? for example, my father in law. In those times, many people that came to the island would come to him, to ask questions ? so we can say that he was also heritage ? like a museum? Luciano Ant?nio Jos? Chane General Secretary of OJM ?Sometimes I think of telling UNESCO, ?You are looking at buildings, but inside those buildings there are people?. So we have to start looking at the human fabric at the same time.? Flora Maria de Pinto Magalh?es President of the Tourism Association The following factors were the main determinants for the current state of conservation and management of the World Heritage of Mozambique Island. Firstly, within the political climate described above, the lack of clear political hierarchy regarding the management of world heritage counts as the most important factor which should be in place so that those working on this field could clearly understand their responsibilities, rights, roles and place in the decision-making and implementation hierarchy. Due to the lack of communication between central government, district administration, UNESCO and Municipal Council, it is unclear which body is responsible for managing the world heritage of Mozambique Island. ?Here there is no Unesco, there is no heritage, because there is nothing UNESCO has done to demonstrate that they are here. What did Unesco do? They only came here two or three years ago.? Zainal Acting president of the Association of the Friends of Mozambique Island 100 Duties, Responsibilities and Activities District and Municipal Level World Heritage Level Not Complied with, and why District Administration Responsible for the provision of services such as agricultural and industrial growth, district health and education, Responsibilities were not clear at the time of fieldwork. There was no heritage office. The District Administration does not have any legislative or punitive power. Municipal Council Responsible towards the Municipality for the provision of public services: water, electricity, health, education and public words (e.g. roads). Responsible for the approval or rejection of project proposals for renovation/restoration of the immobile tangible heritage of Mozambique Island, based on GACIM?s recommendation and technical advise. In a nutshell, the Municipal Council is the only body in position to control the compliance with the World Heritage and Municipality Regulations on the physical heritage of Mozambique Island. Responsibility to close down constructing sites when not complying with imposed and existing regulations. The process of reception of project proposals, receiving the recommendation and technical advise from GACIM, making a decision, and acting upon it, is not efficient. This takes longer then it should, due to the lack of professional and equipped staff, and a whole implementing and punitive system that supports the renovation/restoration regulations. In terms of the responsibilities towards the municipality itself, health and education, are amongst development areas that used to be under the District Administration?s jurisdiction. Therefore, there is a fair amount of learning, adjusting, internal fighting over control, inefficiency, mismanagement of funds, lack of technical staff, lack of financial resources. While in Mozambique Island, I saw a few houses being renovated/restored which, in the naked eye, did not seem to comply with the basic regulation of World Heritage Sites, which says that the fa?ade of houses cannot be changed. Furthermore, in Macuti town, the number of houses whose roof has been changed from macuti to corrugated iron, is countless, it being a clear demonstration that regulations are not being adhered to, nor are they being implemented by the Municipal Council. GACIM Does not have any responsibilities towards the district. Given its close relationship with the Municipal Council, its main responsibility is in giving technically sound advise about the renovation/restoration of the immobile tangible heritage of Mozambique Island. In this way, although GACIM?s relationship with the Municipal Council concerns World Heritage exclusively, by giving advise on its reconstruction, this body is indirectly linked to the development of the municipality of the island. Responsible for the assessment of each and every project proposal for the renovation of immobile tangible heritage within the Municipality of Mozambique Island. The project proposals are handed-in to the Municipal Council, who seeks GACIM?s technical advise. Gacim comments on whether the renovation/restoration project complies with the World Heritage Regulations, as well as the Municipal Council specific regulations. It then advises the Municipal Council to approve or reject the proposal. It is my opinion that GACIM does not have enough technical staff giving thorough advise, recommendations and comments on the project proposals for the renovation/restoration of public and private infrastructures in the island. Their team lacks in experience with World Heritage sites. The fact that they do not have punitive or implementing power, does restrict their potential success in controlling the construction that goes in Mozambique Island, in both the Macuti and the Stone neighbourhoods. UNESCO Does not have any responsibilities towards the development of the district of Mozambique Island, or the Municipality, except if it is an activity that would have an impact on the management of the World Heritage of Mozambique in which case they could work on securing funding from partner countries and international bodies. Responsible for liaising with partner countries and international bodies, with the intention of raising funds for the renovation/restoration of the world heritage of Mozambique Island. It is difficult to judge whether UNESCO is sticking to their responsibilities regarding the World Heritage of Mozambique Island. Fund raising is not a simple, straight-forward task. Throughout the years, staff working for UNESCO has mistakenly made promises to residents of Mozambique Island. This has brought upon this UN agency a low public image in the island. Civil Society Does not have any formal responsibility. As members of the public, every citizen should have the duty of caring for the physical environment in which they inhabit. Citizens of Mozambique Island do not take care of World Heritage. Restoration and renovation is being taken forward by a majority of foreign individuals as well as Mozambicans from Maputo. The islanders lack in a sense of ownership towards the physical environment in which they inhabit. The lack of education and the economic poverty experienced by them, together with poor governance, low institutional capacity, lack of technical expertise, and an overall very low appropriation of the concept and status of Mozambique Island as a World Heritage Site. 101 ?At this moment in time, I cannot understand well what are the responsibilities of the National Direction of Culture. We are under them. But their financial responsibility towards us is not felt yet because after all they don?t have resources either. At this stage the role of the Direction of Culture is limited to writing funding proposals for the museum.? Silv?rio Naoito Director of the Museum of Mozambique Island ?In terms of World Heritage status, here in the field it?s only symbolic. If they gave that status then they should invest. If this were somewhere else it wouldn?t be in the present conditions.? Momade Noor Khan Imam of Central Mosque ?The problem is that UNESCO is here only in name. They are not based here, present [?] here to be able to control the people. To be able to maintain the Heritage. There is a need for education, otherwise people grow without learning anything, without knowing that these houses are heritage, so that they are maintained.? Imo Municipality?s Officer for Finances and Public Works The existence of GACIM is invaluable for the future World Heritage of Mozambique Island. Nonetheless, on its own it cannot provide a strong and complete foundation for the management of this heritage. Unless the management plan is implemented and each institutional body knows their duties and responsibilities and there is capacity-building for the implementation of these, I foresee difficulties and continuous political conflicts, the lack of clarity where each institution stands makes for lack of efficiency and implementation. Secondly, within the political sphere, the existing political conflicts and tension between the Administration and the Municipal Council do not help the situation. Fighting over power of decision- making and the lack of clarity in who does what, brings any sort of effort backwards. In addition, when this conflict is looked at neighbourhood level, the activities that are taken forward by members of one body towards the implementation of the municipal guidelines are often disregarded by members of other bodies, simply as a manner of maintaining the political difference, as a way of boycotting. ?The Ministry of Culture is here, the government is here, the municipal council is here and each wants to know what the other is busy with. That?s why there is so much to do in Mozambique Island. We?ve already identified all the problems in Mozambique Island. We don?t need to talk anymore.? Didn?t you use this quote already? Zainal Acting president of the Association of the Friends of Mozambique Island ?I think that the administration and the municipality should be working with the population, and with the fisherman, and the tourism officials, with the merchants, and that does not happen yet. There should be specific meetings to discuss development in these areas.? Flora Maria de Pinto Magalh?es President of the Tourism Association ?The municipality and the administration should work in parallel with each other, as they determine the destiny of the island. There is always rivalry between the two.? Momade Gulamo Issufo President of Association of Sunni Muslims ?I think that the Municipality in coordination with the District Administration should be responsible for the rehabilitation of the island. First because the municipality has its own responsibilities at city level. They should collaborate with the state and attribute tasks ?From here we do, until there you do?.? Cristina Lu?s Director of Mozambique Island?s High School There [is another reason that explains] why heritage intended to enhance local identity, can in reality, lead to its diminutions: tendency 102 towards a standardisation of professional practice. Such standardisation may even have an international dimension as ?best practice? examples are propagated and skills and ideas diffused through intergovernmental and professional bodies such as UNESCO, ICOMOS (International Council on Monuments and Sites) and the Council of Europe; urban development project are increasingly executed and financed by globally active companies, which tend to minimise risk by repeating exemplars already successful elsewhere [?]. (Graham et al. 2000: 218). Thirdly, the lack of technical staff with authority to make decisions and implement guidelines is another factor that indicates the failure of managing this world heritage site. According to a UNESCO official of culture, working directly with Mozambique Island, UNESCO?s role is that of ?liaising with member states and fund raising for existing projects? (Of?lia 2008). Nonetheless, perhaps because of a post-war culture of dependency32, and given the promises that accompanied several UNESCO?s trips to Mozambique Island, varied interviewees complained that UNESCO is not following through with their responsibilities, with their promises, and that they have abandoned the island after giving it its status. During the nineties, UNESCO carried out an assessment exercise, identifying 50 priority projects. The UNESCO contracted technicians, including engineers and architects, left the island with promises that these would receive immediate attention by UNESCO. To this day, only one project has been completed ? the old Municipal Council part of the partnership between Mozambique Island and Bergen33, in Norway, and another one is underway ? the Fort of S. Sebastian. ?The changes we managed because the island is World Heritage have not yet been implemented. [?] There was a project here that identified 50 projects, presented by UNESCO ? none of which was rehabilitated. The first will be the fort.? Flora Maria de Pinto Magalh?es President of the Tourism Association ?We have a lack of staff with capacity to perform. That?s a huge limitation ? a team that is properly constituted, that can work efficiently, with dynamism.? Silv?rio Naoito Director of the Museum of Mozambique Island ?I had written many letters to the Direction of Heritage; two letters that I wrote complaining, or maybe, should I say demanding a right, and I had no response. I become more upset. I think that is all a big theatre piece.? Zainal Acting president of the Association of the Friends of Mozambique Island 32 Towards the end of the 80s, as the resources that sustained the civil war between FRELIMO and RENAMO started to dry out, and after Samora had been assassinated, Mozambique started to drift towards the support of international bodies such as the IMF and the World Bank, for financial assistance. This shift, from a communist political idealism, pressured the country into neoliberalism while putting it into severe debt. During the 90s, Structural Adjustment Programmes were put into place, changing the industrial and agricultural landscape of Mozambique. In addition, in a period called Reconstruction and Peace, Mozambique was flooded by UN agencies and other international NGOs which injected the economy with money at different levels, from the national, to community. In this manner, it is my opinion that currently, Mozambique suffers from a culture of post-war dependency, by which expression I mean that the relationship that Mozambique has developed with aid agencies, at all levels, becoming one of dependency, which at the local level transpires into a culture in which Mozambicans expect foreigner to give them things, from money, to food, clothes, amongst others. 33 The city of Bergen and the city of Mozambique Island had a development partnership based on their status as World Heritage cities. During its duration, this partnership saw many positive and constructive projects as a result, including photographic exhibitions and the renovation of the former Municipal Council building, currently owned by the Municipal Council and rent out as a conference rooms as well as the offices of GACIM. 103 ?We already had the 50 projects ? done by UNESCO ? published in a book, and until today none of them was renovated, not even the rehabilitation of one door, nothing was maintained, nothing was done.? Imo Municipality?s Officer for Finances and Public Works ?UNESCO does not value this place enough. It?s like they have a son to call by the name. But they don?t clothe, or feed him. He grows like a goat. Roaming. Nothing is ever done here.? Gulamo Mamudo President of the Municipal Council Photographed at the entrance of the Municipal Council of Mozambique Island 104 The state can reduce its role to one of being no more that a protector of the public interest through measures to limit or mitigate the negative external effects of private restoration investment (Graham et al. 2000: 138). The restoration of the Fort has taken a prolonged time. Since the money was secured from the Governments of Japan and Portugal, many obstacles, including the lack of technical expertise, paused the project not allowing it to start within the previewed schedule. Once an architect representing UNESCO was found, a construction company was identified, as well as the main architect and person responsible for the restoration. Currently, the first phase of the project is almost finished. The head Architect Jos? Forjaz34, has been working together with a field architect responsible for the site, as well as UNESCO?s architect. Architect Francisco oversees the project and liaises with the donor bodies in terms of report writing and follow-up for the up-coming second and third phases of the projects. ?From what I know, in the concrete example of the Fort, the government of Japan gave an amount and the Portuguese government also did ? 1,5 million dollars. From our point of view, as national government, UNESCO was responsible to assist with the management of tenders, the identification of team to start working, and for the management of the construction site. They would employ whoever they wanted to supervise the site. This should have been clear. In parallel, we must to a management plan for the island.? Silv?rio Naoito Director of the Museum of Mozambique Island ?We criticise UNESCO because they have a meeting but never come again. They promise to come with new projects to implement, but nothing until today. They promise to start the roads in January, and the 5 billion dollars that has been received ? where is that money?? Abacar Faqui Amuri, Momade Abdul Amisse, Ussaine Ossane, Alfane Pilale, Abudo Swal? Abudo Municipality Neighbourhood Secretaries ?I sometimes hear that they are going to start working on the roads. I?ve been hearing that for three years.? Mussagi Fakir Imam of first mosque of Mozambique ?We need to recognise that we can go forward, from the conferences to actual concrete actions. Even the international organisation, if they really want to do something, then they have to dive into more concrete happenings. A lot of the time we could go ahead without the need to have as many meetings, because those meetings entail costs, and the truth is that a lot of the time that money is not even Mozambique?s money, but if that money could at least be applied to health, social action, that?s money that could be well applied.? Alfredo Matata District Administrator ?If there were flexibility? we have the fort there, which could be almost be complete, but to this day it hasn?t started. Because it all depends on international rules of the game, and for such a small district that is totally not practical. The journey is too long. If at least we could have UNESCO representatives here, but not even that we have. They have an office, but no decision-making power. There is a technician, a trusting person. There is only a person that coordinates when they come here, their accommodation, etc. [laughs]. On the field, there is nothing. They have done workshops, but they are of no use. The minister is here, and I said ?Look, this think of UNESCO??, to which he replied ?We don?t have the possibility of doing things differently now, because that?s how they are already, but we are going to really try to protect the built environment?. So let?s go forward to rehabilitating, but not only the houses, but also the people. UNESCO is rehabilitating the houses, but the people stay behind, forgotten. I talk about rehabilitating people in the sense of educating, having 34 Jos? Forjaz is an award winning Mozambican architect who, since the independence of Mozambique, has been invested in the development of this country?s infrastructures from an architectural point of view. Building with local materials and working with the natural conditions of a location are high in his professional priorities. Furthermore, he has been involved in various restoration projects, some of which took place in Mozambique Island. 105 good access to public health ? that we don?t have. So it is all questionable. I?m a member of government, so maybe I shouldn?t be talking like this, but I do feel that at UNESCO?s level, they should become more flexible, so that we can start resolving the problem, because we are in a struggle to develop the island, and we are thankful for UNESCO?s help and other international institutions. But there is the need to be more flexible. A project should not take longer than 5 years. The fort has taken 3 and it hasn?t started yet. There is a conference coming up, but that doesn?t mean that the fort will start to be rehabilitated straight away. There will be phase, then another phase, and then another, following by another phase and another?? Alfredo Matata District Administrator Faced with quite different national and local economic priorities, government procrastination and the sovereignty of the nation-state over ?its heritage?, international sympathy, expertise and financial resources may be largely powerless to do more than renovate a few buildings (Graham et al. 2000: 239). The level of poverty is the fourth factor. When the majority of the population of a location lives in severe poverty, engaging with activities, which do not obviously contribute towards the direct betterment of their lives is not a priority. Furthermore, the lack of available financial resources as a determinant impact on the reconstruction of public and private heritage. ?We will at some point look at the technical aspects of the museum itself. But my focus is now on stopping the total destruction of the building itself. We don?t have available resources at the moment, and therefore we feel that it really is a long process.? Silv?rio Naoito Director of the Museum of Mozambique Island ?If it wasn?t for the sea the situation here would be very bad. People fish for the curry of the day. It?s an eternal survival without any perspective to better the situation. In terms of heritage, tourism cannot live side by side with this situation of poverty.? Flora Maria de Pinto Magalh?es President of the Tourism Association Fifthly, the level of illiteracy contributes to the difficulty of introducing the notion of world heritage in a way that makes sense to the reality of the residents of the island. In addition to the obstacles that are induced by the existing complexities of Mozambique Island, comes the lack of appropriation felt by the islanders towards this concept and status. When exploring scales, and the idea that global trends, ideas, movements or practices, become local when appropriated by any individual or group of individuals, it becomes clear that the idea and status of World Heritage has not been appropriated by the islanders. 106 CASE STUDY OF ZANZIBAR from Shinuna Karume?s ?An Evalution of the Strengths and Limitations of the Implementation and Enforcement of the Stone Town Conservation Legistation: Zanzibar? in Legal Frameworks for the Protections of Immovable Cultural Heritage in Africa by Ndore and Pwiti(Eds.), 2009 In 1990, the Government of Zanzibar created the Stone Town Conservation and Development Authority (STCDA) as the custodians of the Stone Town Conservation Area. This came in the wake of the derelict state of most of the buildings and their rapid rate of deterioration. The Stone Town Act No. 3 of 1994 was passed shortly after, giving STCDA all legal rights of conservation and development activities within the Stone Town Conservation Area. The Act granted STCDA exclusive legal powers, including the authority, independence strength and means to operate effectively. Despite the merits and intrinsic value of the Act of 1994, however, several weaknesses have been identified with regards to the enforcement and implementation of the law. Several examples are discussed in this paper that clearly expose these weaknesses and problems. Ultimately, what was learnt from the Stone Town experience was that overcoming the problems of conservation of heritage sites will not be achieved by merely drafting and enacting laws to safeguard the heritage sites, but rather developing strategies and approaches that tackle the problem holistically. Zanzibar was originally taken over by the Portuguese over three centuries ago in order to safeguard their interests in the Indian Ocean. In 1840, however, Zanzibar fell under Arab control when the Sultanate of Oman effortlessly took over control from the Portuguese (Sheriff 1995). In the years to come, the Arabs constructed several houses in typical Arab style. They were simple in character but grand and extravagant in space and taste, with high ceilings, huge rooms overlooking the Indian Ocean and intricate doors. As the Arab architecture became the predominant feature of the town, it was then names ?Stone Town? to describe its character. In many ways Stone Town was a rare and unique phenomenon of Africa, given that most houses were constructed with pole and mud. As Stone Town, developed, a segregated settlement pattern grew, with the Africans settled on one side of the town in the area known as Ng?ambo, permitted only to cross Creek Road that separated the tow different worlds when they came to work for those in the Stone Town area, whether Arabs or rich Indian merchants. STCDA?s primary responsibility is to control and monitor the development of the conservation area, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. STCDA?s objectives include: to ensure the continuity of effort and sustained commitment and to plan and manage the complex historic area over the long term by preparation and supervision of the Master Plan and Regulation of the Stone Town. The principal takes of the STCDA include issuing, building permits and restoration notices, monitoring of construction works and prosecution of illegal building activities. It also advises, coordinates and monitors other government agencies and department and is responsible for coordination between the varied government agencies and external aid organisations. As clearly stated in the Act, the Authority?s main function is to ?initiate, plan, prepare, co- ordinate and control all maters related to the conservation of the Stone Town? (Stone Town act 1994). Financial limitations for the effective implementation and enforcement of legislation; lack of professional and competent personnel, bureaucratic ignorance of the laws, political interests and interference, centralisation of operations, need to review the Master Plan and the Legislation, embeddedness of the society. Elimination of conflict between different institutions can be achieved through decentralising the decision- making process, enhancing the level of communication between institutions and elaborating clearly defined jurisdictions of institutions. This last solution entails each of the different but related institutions being conversant with the legislation that governs the u of the others. The realisation of some of these solutions 107 should see each institution executing its assigned tasks more efficiently in line with the legislation relating to its operations. The above suggestions could be achieved through: - Providing educational programmes or seminars where the concerned bureaucrats are obliged to attend; - Disseminating information on the laws and regulations to bureaucrats of the concerned institutions as well as to others; - Encouraging inter-departmental dialogue and communications; - Reducing bureaucracy in order to eliminate confusion and loopholes; - Educating the community on the laws and regulations and the importance of respecting them. Legislation is an integral part of the effective protection preservation and development of immovable cultural heritages sites. Legislation alone is not enough, however. In the developing world where government infrastructure is weakly developed, funds are hard to come by, corruption is prevalent and poverty is the order of the day, there is need for a more holistic approach. These factors whether tackled simultaneously or individually, need to be addressed with caution and prudence. There is a need to invest in educated, enthusiastic, well-informed and experience bureaucrats, secure funds, reduce the interference of political interests and foster political well and government commitment. It is imperative to inform and involve the communities concerned in order to legitimise the operations of the STCDA, encourage state- society synergies that complement wider stakeholder involvement in the governing of the conservation area, and increase communication and harmonisation of operations between institutions. The framework of the Africa 2009 Programme, the 3rd Regional Thematic Seminar: Legal Frameworks for the Protection of Immovable Cultural Heritage was organised from 21-25 October 2002 in Mutare, Zimbabwe. Fundamental concepts: Legislation should be for the people and by the people, reflecting the values of all the different segments of society. These values should be documented and well defined within the heritage legislation. To achieve this, the law must provide for community values, customary rights, and traditional practices including those that relate to ownership and the right to use cultural landscapes. Legislation should cover the interrelationship of tangible/intangible, and movable/immovable heritage. Legislation needs to provide for a variety of diverse methods of conservation in keeping with different situations and types of heritage (e.g. conservation areas, inventories, landscapes and community-based systems). There is a need to move beyond monuments, taking a broader view of cultural heritage and its relevance in a variety of contexts. 108 ?We prefer the hospital. No one can like that which does not belong to him or her. How could we like the house of a person, if the house does not belong to us?? Cariba Abubacar Abdala Mante, Abdul-Remane Sahide Sheikh Ame, Jo?o Faquir, Ali Muss?, Abdal Momade Cultural Groups Photographed in front and inside one the associations and in front of the hospital 109 6. The Case of Non-Appropriation of World Heritage on Mozambique Island This section aims to apply the theoretical proposals to the case study as explored in the previous sections, having as my framework my literature review. Here I argue that the islanders interviewed do not appropriate the concept or the status of World Heritage as attributed to the island by UNESCO. Further complexities and enabling tools are looked at, as well as potential benefits that the population could experience, from the appropriation and maintenance of their World Heritage. * 6.1 Non-Appropriation of World Heritage In line with the theoretical proposal I offer, my conclusion is that the World Heritage of Mozambique Island is in its present state because of the non-appropriation felt/exercised by the individuals and institutions who have direct and indirect impact on it. Furthermore, I propose that the non-appropriation is explained through the complexities described in the previous chapter, which shape the manner individuals behave and think of World Heritage and reason the potential benefits stemming from the effective management of this. This section analyses how this non-appropriation comes across through the rhetoric individuals use about World Heritage, as well as their actions towards the island. * Rhetoric / Place Identity Have these by default been declared ?identity poor? or even ?identity- less?? Do the inhabitants feel no sense of place or only that their place has an identity that is less easily recognisable or less valuable than somewhere else? (Ashworth and Graham 2005: 223). ?I understand that heritage is a good, that has value, social value. I understand that when I relate it to my family?s heritage. Maybe Mozambique Island is considered World Heritage because of that, because it has so many things that identify its ancestors, and the history of Mozambique.? Cristina Lu?s Director of Mozambique Island?s High School A rhetorical analysis of the way in which the islanders I interviewed relate to Mozambique Island?s world heritage points to the fact that, Mozambique Island is generally not regarded by its islanders as a World Heritage Site, and that therefore the idea and status of World Heritage has not been appropriated by the interviewees. As described above, the individuals interviewed occupied existing positions of hierarchical power, recognised publicly for their authority. Whether in the political, economic or social realm, these individuals demonstrated a rather limited understanding of what World Heritage means. ?We should integrate our efforts to look after this land, because we share the love for it, because it is our place, and that of our grandparents and great-grandparents.? Raul Matano Muss? and Amisse Ussaine Traditional Chiefs During the interviews35, individuals were asked to engage with the idea of Heritage. Firstly, from a conceptual point of view (definition and understanding), secondly in relation to Mozambique Island (was the island a World Heritage site, and if so since when), thirdly from a analytical point of view (whether 35 Appendix 2: Structure used for in-depth individual and group interviews 110 they believed the status had contributed to the betterment of the island or of the islanders? lives) and fourthly, from a participatory point of view (did individuals physically contribute towards the up-keeping of the island?s heritage). When asked if individuals have ever heard of World Heritage, the majority answered that they had heard these two words before, although there were substantial who had never heard of it. A few individuals, older in age, told me that the day of the interview it was the very first time they were encountering the expression world heritage. World Heritage does not have a direct translation to Macua language, which shows its novelty in the daily language in the island. The expression has not been appropriated into the local dialect. ?Never heard of World Heritage. It?s beginning to hear it now. Even if I hear before, I didn?t know what it was. Maybe I heard it, but because I don?t know the meaning? I was never taught.? Iaquibo Ali and Atomane Ussaine Imams from Macuti Mosques The individuals who did know that Mozambique Island is a World Heritage Site often had interesting definitions for this status, which can be read throughout this report in the direct quotes as per the transcribed interviews. The conclusion that I take from this is that the knowledge manifested in these answers is informed by sporadic workshops run by NGOs and UNESCO36, as well as radio programmes run by the Friends of Mozambique Island Association. The very few individuals that did attend such workshops do not recall what they learnt or what the aims and objectives of the workshop were. I further believe that some individuals have been made more aware of the World Heritage Status of the island due to their contact with government and council documents that refer to the island?s status. Overall, most individuals interviewed did not have a minimum understanding of World Heritage, as per UNESCO?s definition. Some associated this with the fact that Mozambique Island was the first capital of Mozambique, and others with the fact that Mozambique was born there, or with the fact the Mozambique Island has visitors from all over the world, and therefore is World Heritage. ?World Heritage is important because it is known all over the world that Mozambique Island is World Heritage. And therefore, people can come here and help.? Martinho Carola and Manuel At?pore Secretaries of Neighbourhood ?What I feel is that in terms of the population, no one really knows about World Heritage and its importance. And those who know, including ourselves, need to make sure that there are concrete situations to resolve and to make this a different district.? Alfredo Matata District Administrator In terms of the factual understanding of whether the island is World Heritage, most individuals answered affirmatively (except those who had never heard of it), although there was no consensus on the date in which the status was attributed. From an analytical point of view, my interviewees agreed that not much had bettered through the island becoming a World Heritage Site. 36 UNESCO has been running a series of workshops on the meaning and importance of World Heritage since the late nineties. The participants did not seem to retain much knowledge from these, by. In addition, UNESCO does not seem to have a strong methodology developed to be implemented in such workshops, in terms of the participants, methods of teaching and learning or content taught. These seem to vary according to the person who is responsible for putting workshops together. 111 In conclusion, those interviewed in their majority know that Mozambique Island is a World Heritage Site, but do not know why. Of 40 interviewees only five knew what World Heritage means and why Mozambique Island had been granted this status. This signifies that the large majority did not know what it means for the island to be a World Heritage Site, which consequently directly determines the relationship that individuals establish and maintain with the physical, spiritual and cultural aspects of their heritage. I tried to gain insight into the value attributed to World Heritage ? so as to ascertain the potential understanding of benefit, the consequent appropriation, which would explain the present relationship with the heritage. ?This is World Heritage because of its value, and to be valued. Which does not happen. Worst of all in this last few years ? there is no value given to World Heritage.? Imo Municipality?s Officer for Finances and Public Works As explored previously, appropriation comes with a potential benefit, whether physical, emotional, individual, social, group, financial, visible, invisible, the idea is that individuals, on the one hand act according to their needs, wants and desires. We appropriate concepts that help us understand the world; we appropriate land where we want to live; we appropriate a style of dress because it helps us integrate in a society or to express a lifestyle; we appropriate a language because we are curious about it, or because we need to use it to communicate ? but certainly we do not freely appropriate things without having a vested interest in them. And this interest is directly determined by our understanding of our reality, by the access to exercising one?s sense of agency, by the hope we have, or the fear we feel. ?What we have here in Mozambique Island is that people are considered to be important because they live here, not beyond the bridge in the continent. If you sleep here you?ve got some status. At the end of the day, amongst men and women there isn?t a work culture. If there were work culture people would work more, they would produce more.? Alfredo Matata District Administrator Although it is clear that the islanders do not wish or plan to leave Mozambique Island, although many wish it for their children and grandchildren, this sense of belonging in this place does not seem to be connected to it being a World Heritage Site. Instead the sense of belonging comes from it being an island, where people feel part of an urban fabric they do not wish to abandon in favour of the rural benefits of owning a farm. Living in the city is valuable, gives individuals status and allows people to continue to survive in an established social network that solidifies their everyday existence. The only benefit that is talked about from it being a World Heritage Site is potential economic gain, which I gathered through listening to rhetoric of dependency deeply engrained on post-civil war Mozambicans. But even that benefit has fallen off the wagon, after Unesco and the governmental institution have countless times failed the islanders in developing the infrastructures of the island, creating jobs and redeeming the population from a state of severe poverty. ?I know that it is a worldwide phenomenon ? islanders don?t like to leave their islands. Islanders are just like that.? Martinho Carola and Manuel At?pore Secretaries of Neighbourhood * 112 Ownership ?Each person takes care of what belongs to him or her.? Iaquibo Ali and Atomane Ussaine Imams from Macuti Mosques There is a clear division between the Macuti and Stone sides of Mozambique Island. Although this division was in the past somewhat clear in terms of class and social status within the city, it has now become more blurred, since individuals have appropriated some of the ruins, which have subsequently been sold to foreigners and wealthy Mozambican individuals, perhaps again bringing that social division into the current reality of the island. My research does not answer whether the city is equally utilised by everyone. Nonetheless, it offers insight into what individuals consider their own, the most useful, the most beautiful, that which should be prioritised in terms of the renovation and that which they identify the most with. The islanders appreciate the island?s heritage because it has special meaning to them as individuals, they relate experiences to it, not because they were taught a specific history about the making and use of them, nor because they benefit from tourists visiting them, or them being universally considered as buildings worth maintaining. When asked which building they thought should be restored first, most individuals answered either their own home, or the hospital, which serves a function in their quality of life. For me, this highlights that the government is not meeting the basic needs of the islanders. Only once these needs are secure, I wonder if the population of Mozambique Island will start looking beyond them to a World Heritage that they can and wish to conserve for added benefits potentially stemming from tourism. ?We prefer the hospital. No one can like that which does not belong to him or her. How could we like the house of a person, if the house does not belong to us?? Cariba Abubacar Abdala Mante, Abdul-Remane Sahide Sheikh Ame, Jo?o Faquir, Ali Muss?, Abdal Momade Cultural Groups ?Our favourite building is hospital because we all go there, we are all treated there, although they lack many things. It?s beautiful, at the same as it is not. The people that built that hospital were people that came here contracted to build it. That was a building done by people that were not from here. Not even in Maputo you can find something like it.? Martinho Carola and Manuel At?pore Secretaries of Neighbourhood ?Each person has to like where he or she is. For example, I like the madrasa the best, because that where I spend all my time.? Abdul Rahim Ali Momade Director of Madrasa Babu Salaam Looking at the level of participation in the creation, implementation and decision-making is another way of understanding that the islanders are far removed from the management and responsibility of taking care of the World Heritage. As I maintain in the theoretical proposal, I argue that there is a dialectic relationship between the level at which individuals are able to make decisions about their space, and how they appropriate it, and therefore maintain it. Feeding of each other in a dialectic form, the islanders are removed from decision-making actions. An example is a conference about the future of the World 113 Heritage of Mozambique Island, held in the island, in which of a total of 42 participants only six were islanders, and of those six there was only one that officially represented the civil society37. ?Where Unesco works hard is in writing letters ? they write many letters to us. It?s very beautiful, but concrete actions, implementation, there is none of that. I?m quite sad that I won?t be attending that meeting, because I would be one of the individuals that would screw that meeting up. I would tell them ?This meeting is only for you to justify the money, or are you here just to throw sand in the eyes of the islanders?? There has been much work; many people came here and helped in some reconstructions. The main problem is that it should be the Technical Office who controls the houses and their rehabilitation. The state has sold everything. Not to foreigners, but to Mozambicans, who have foreigners behind them, as the real owners. We are the ones that have to change our own mentality, and oblige people to work. There should be a technical office to take care of all of this.? Imo Municipality?s Officer for Finances and Public Works When asked if they had actively participated in the conservation of the World Heritage, all individuals, except for the Director of the Museum, answered negatively. The rehabilitation of their own properties does not count to them as being active in conserving the World Heritage, as it is difficult to make sense of the fact that even their own houses are World Heritage. Furthermore, although many individuals speak of how beautiful the fort and the museum are, their conservation does not show me a sense of appreciation for the World Heritage of the island. Two exceptions are the following comments from the director of the school, who was not born on the island, and the director of the Tourism Association, who for many years lived in Maputo having returned recently. The sense of poverty and general lack of quality of life has tainted individuals? perceptions and their hope for a future. ?I stop many times to observe the entrance to the harbour. It makes me feel like I?m in another world, or in another period in history. The entrance to the harbour, with the anchor and the two canons. This building makes me waste a lot of time.? Cristina Lu?s Director of Mozambique Island?s High School ?Mozambique Island is like paradise for us. That?s the impression that stays, that marks one, that never leaves a person. It doesn?t matter how far you are. When I was in Maputo, I dreamt of Mozambique Island often. Sometimes I dreamt of being here in this wall, I would jump it and then I would run and start flying and I would fly for a long time. This island stays in one?s subconscious.? Flora Maria de Pinto Magalh?es President of the Tourism Association * 6.2 Why is the World Heritage of Mozambique Island in its present state? We are back where I started: my key research question. Why is the World Heritage of Mozambique in its present state? Well, to start off, I?ll say, That?s a complex question. From the data gathered in the field and through desk research the paradox of awarded universal status versus present state of poverty has become clearer. The complexities of societal networks that are present on the island exist as push and pull factors in the conservation and management of this island. It is unfortunate that up until my field 37 Afiz does not actually represent the population needs and opinions; neither does he report back ? he is busy and used to engage at a higher level with national departments and international NGOs. In fact, when asked to give me time for an interview, he rescheduled a few times and I left the field without having spoken to him on the issues of his research, even though he would have been a great source of information. 114 research took place, the push factors were stronger, pushing sustainable management away as a possibility. These factors are namely the lack of employment, the lack of education, the non-participative democracy, bad governance, poor institutional support and hierarchical system, dependency on outside states and institutions and poor technical expertise. Without a comprehensive system of pull factors the state of the island will not change for the better, which will threaten the universal state that the island benefits from currently. Creating employment without putting educational programmes together, or cleaning the beaches without creating a political system that does not strive in practicing good governance will not work. Efforts need to be taken in all directions, which entails the full attention from UNESCO Mozambique as well as the National Office for Heritage at the Ministry of Education and Culture. The present state of the island is due to a varied number of factors carefully established throughout this report. These factors lead to the non-appropriation of the concept and value of World Heritage to the degree it would need in order to ensure its upkeep. This non-appropriation exists at all levels, from UNESCO to the national government, to local government to the civil society38. Even if some of these stakeholders are making efforts and attempting to manage the World Heritage of Mozambique Island, this is not enough, as it is not effective or holistic. This research report clearly pushes the thesis that in order to maintain a World Heritage Site in a condition worthy of its award, the site needs to be carefully researched and understood, so that a management plan can be drawn with the participation of people who can both technical knowhow and knowledge of the local networks and rhythms, as it considers the several players that have a passive and/or active existence in the site. The following section looks at further complexities that need consideration in order to ensure that the World Heritage of Mozambique Island is safeguarded for the benefit of the whole humanity. ?We do inform the people that we need to take care of our beaches, we need to conserve our homes, they need to be conserved and painted. But when a poor person wants to do so, he can?t. He?s got other worries. He can?t even get a crumb to eat, let?s not even talk about painting his house. And also there is the need for civic education ? because there are those who have the money, but who don?t paint their houses because they don?t know they should.? Martinho Carola and Manuel At?pore Secretaries of Neighbourhood Heritage remains a critical component in the construction of identity at a variety of scales and across a number of social axes, while, simultaneously, it is a ubiquitous economic good, sold without compunction by an increasingly globalised tourism industry that cares little for its socio-political role (Graham et al. 2000: 257). * 38 Note that this research report only looks at the appropriation of World Heritage by the residents of Mozambique Island 115 ?I love my home. That?s natural. My whole life is here, I live here, so I?ve got to like it. If I don?t like it, I won?t take care of it, and it will end up becoming a ruin.? Momade Gulamo Issufo President of Association of Suni Muslims; Photographed inside his shop 116 6.2 Future complexities to consider Enabling Tools for Appropriation Embracing the status from all levels as a positive and unique opportunity for development of a severely poverty stricken location, would be essential to overcome its present state of heritage. Towards this, education seems to be crucial, as a means for individuals to understand the value of their island as well as the potential benefits that could come with taking better care of it. The idea would be to work with the benefits of World Heritage, and then allowing the islanders to decide to appropriate the concept of World heritage, as well as the identity change that comes with it, regarding a sense of ownership and participation. On the other hand, the obstacles that currently exist that would not allow the appropriation to occur in a smooth manner need to be looked at, as these are basic problems that induce a poor quality of life for the islanders. I think that there are a variety of benefits that can be pointed out to the community, as briefly described in the previous section. A World Heritage Site carries historical importance that brings about social empowerment. The constant interest from UNESCO, as well as foreign governments and other institutions grant the island a higher political status, from the point of view of learning opportunities, while at the same time, this municipality is the target of more funding and financial resources. * Education & Participation Education and participation are the way forward in Mozambique Island. I believe that these two tools, if adequately performed, can enable appropriation of the world heritage of Mozambique Island by its residents. Through increased awareness of their rights and responsibilities towards their peers and the physical and built environment, as well as their potential benefits from taking care of this World Heritage Site, I believe that individuals can start looking after their heritage in a way that makes them proud. ?The thing about education ? although that is arguable ? is that people can change their way of facing situations, their work culture, and learn to take care of their household. People that didn?t work do not have that mentality. Education doesn?t even have to be tertiary education. Basic education would resolve the problem. Education would be fundamental.? Alfredo Matata District?s Administrator The central government needs to take a more central role in educating and managing the World Heritage Site of Mozambique Island. Education of the islanders about the importance of World Heritage is fundamental. Although most of the adult population of this island is illiterate, educational programmes can easily be structured in beneficial ways, taking advantage of the social structures already existing in the island. Education should be at every level: school, community, city council, madrasa, Sunday school, church, tariqa, mosque. In addition, there is the issue of how to educate. There are different approaches, strategies and intended outcomes of educational programmes ? and, these change on the basis of the context. When looking at Mozambique Island one must take into account the specificity of its socio-political environment, and 117 design programmes that allow for the individuals to learn regardless of their learning capacities. Education is a means of changing and enlarging individuals? views of their world; it introduces concepts, facts and perhaps even solutions to ongoing problems; in addition, educational programmes should create a platform for the generation of knowledge, in which those being taught are able to, in a dialectic form, add and appropriate the knowledge, engage with the educator in a free and equal basis, and be given the possibility of learning through acquiring, rather than being imposed on. In order to avoid the danger of a bland homogenising culture there has to be a role for educative facilities which will permit people to come to terms with the richness of variety that can be found in different places. Crucial to such awareness must be the appreciation of home places developed through time and how the past is always contingent upon the present (Walsh 1992:147). Many natural and cultural World Heritage Sites are highly valued by the local community who identify with the character and qualities of these places. As committed stakeholders local people combine as understanding and appreciation of the heritage assets and willingness to communicate this sensibility and knowledge to others (Millar 2006: 50). ?We need to conserve this World Heritage Site so that people can ask ?but what is this for?? ?why is this here??, ?when was it done??, ?who did it??, ?why was it done??. Slowly this experience is transmitted from generation to generation. Everything that exist here needs to be conserved as was.? Silv?rio Naoito (Director of the Museum of Mozambique Island) ?This was a question presented by the local communities. When we started speaking about the fort, there were voices who said ?why rehabilitate the fort and not other social places??, ?why such a big worry with rehabilitating a monument while there are people starving to death??, ?why not raise the quality of life of people here instead?? What happens is that a lot of the times we have to curve in order to achieve an objective. The ultimate end is to increase the quality of life of everyone here. But first we have to curve, around the World heritage ? which attracts people. It?s easier to show a building than a cultural group. All of these are a group of elements. We cannot separate them really but it?s necessary to start somewhere.? Silv?rio Naoito (Director of the Museum of Mozambique Island) Participation ? towards active citizenship ? needs to be considered as a strategy of intervention and management of World Heritage. If the Status is to remain awarded to Mozambique Island, then UNESCO and the National Government need to have this in mind, so as to include this in their research, planning of the way forward and implementation of management plan. Although technical expertise is crucial for the development of research and management plans, without the participation of local individuals local interpretation, appropriation and knowledge are not included, neglecting the context, in turn lessening the potential for appropriation and the taking of ownership over world heritage. In this manner, including individuals that have local knowledge in the design of a plan is of extreme importance, and should not be neglected for logistical or financial reasons. A lot has been written about participation, and bottom-up projects. ?I need to get to know exactly how the World Heritage Law works ? including the rehabilitation and conservation rules.? Silv?rio Naoito Director of the Museum of Mozambique Island ?It?s important to educate these people. It?s not only about the Municipal Council locking people up. We need more interventions. The government, the police force, the maritime police, the institutions, the schools all have to explain and educate the people. It?s not going 118 to be the Municipality or the Administration alone, because they have their other responsibilities too.? Imo Municipality?s Officer for Finances and Public Works ?I think that we need rules and norms, but rules and norms are for those who know how to develop. Civic education is important and it should start at junior level at school.? Silv?rio Naoito Director of the Museum of Mozambique Island ?I am trying to educate the people here not to see the tourist as an object, as a source of money. We have to do this, so as to contribute towards the development of a new mentality.? Silv?rio Naoito Director of the Museum of Mozambique Island * Sustainable Development ?The majority of the population is unemployed and that brings about other problems such as the lack of appreciation of what is being bettered, because people?s preoccupations are about what to eat today. Maybe within a rural setting one would not feel the harsh differences. But because the island is heritage and there are people from varied economic backgrounds that visit it, there is a shocking contrast between the possibility of those who visit us and the population itself. So we need to look at this situation a bit, so that jobs are created and the quality of life improved, so that people can start taking care and maintaining this World Heritage Site.? Flora Maria de Pinto Magalh?es President of the Tourism Association A beautiful building will not survive as a home with no bread, let alone no paint or cane to fix it annually as it used to be done before the war. The World Heritage of Mozambique Island will not be renovated and maintained while the islanders live in severe poverty, as they do presently. For me that is a fact. My recommendation is that a plan for the sustainable development of the island is put in place looking at the architectonic fabric, but with stronger emphasis on the human fabric, without which the island has no life, no tourism. The tourism industry, as I will briefly touch in the following section, has the power, if run effectively, to generate employment as well as revenue for middle and small scales businesses, as long as the opportunities are given to islanders who come from poorer and previously disadvantaged communities. ?I?m a part of Mozambique Island. When they say that Mozambique Island is Cultural World Heritage ? there is no history without people. It is people who make history.? Issufo Buanami Former District Administrator; my Interpreter for this project When asked what would be the three priority actions that would better the life in Mozambique Island, there were only three people, Flora (director of the Tourism Association), Cristina (director of the High School), and Silv?rio (director of the Museum) who included the renovation of the ruins as a priority. I believe this to be telling of the state the island is in, and the needs the islanders have to conjure a better life for themselves and their children. ?To better the lifestyle in Mozambique Island, they need to create jobs, and also to decrease the population in the island, in one house you can get 2, 3, 4 families. [?] Then of course, they should rehabilitate the island.? Cristina Lu?s (Director of Mozambique Island?s High School) 119 ?I imagine an island with better roads. I imagine an island with the ideal number of residents and with resorts and hotels better than the ones we?ve got now. An island with monuments fully kitted, being efficiently utilised.? Silv?rio Naoito (Director of the Museum of Mozambique Island) * Responsibilities After understanding that the system of identifying and taking up duties and responsibilities in terms of the World Heritage of Mozambique Island is not functional, I am left thinking that the clarity in achieving this is absolutely fundamental for the management of this valuable site to be successful. Who is responsible for what? Who does the team consist of? Where are they based? Do they know the island? There is a need to create a strong team of individuals that have a background in heritage studies, from architectural, anthropological and managerial perspectives, and who are prepared to be based on the island, in order to get insight into its workings, so that the management and renovations of this World Heritage Site can be efficient and according to the rules established by the Municipal Council and by UNESCO, and ensure that educational programmes are comprehensive and on-going. Furthermore, there is a need to identify who is, in practical terms, responsible for financing this World Heritage project. Should it be UNESCO? Or the central government? Is the budget Mozambique Island is getting as a Municipal Council enough? Once all these are established, then each needs to be kept to their responsibilities. It is my opinion that UNESCO needs to take a wider responsibility for this World Heritage Site. If they want to solely have a fundraising role, then it needs to be established that they need to secure a certain amount by a certain time, so that projects to conserve the tangible and intangible heritage of Mozambique Island that can be taken forward. There are certain responsibilities. The definition, recognition and listing of national heritage is the paramount national responsibility. This includes inventorisation, the establishment of criteria for inclusion, the conferring of heritage designations and consequent legal protection (Graham et al. 2000: 201). ?I think that UNESCO should do some sort of project to preserve these things, the language, those old cultural groups. They should do some research project, so that at least there is a document for the future.? Cristina Lu?s Director of Mozambique Island?s High School If the idea of world heritage is a set of rights and obligations of humanity as a whole towards what it regards as its heritage, there should be a redefinition, or at least restatement of these international rights and duties. The rights can be translated into a series of demands of humanity upon this heritage. These may be only the knowledge that the heritage continues to exist to satisfy an unspecified and possibly never exercised future demand (option demands); recognising the right to bequeath to futures (bequest demands), and direct participation or consumption demands (Ashworth 1998: 12 in Ashworth and van der Aa 2006: 153). Rights are necessarily accompanied by obligation and thus the world is presumably responsible in some way for its own heritage. Such responsibilities may be exercised through concern, monitoring, and the donation of expertise and financial subsidy. First, the protection of the site by national legislation has to be assured before it can be listed as World heritage. Furthermore, the acceptance of international concern, expertise and aid implies the acceptance of international priorities, values, methods and behaviours, which are not 120 inevitably the same as national or local ones. Indeed it is likely in many poorer State Parties that national economic priorites may take precedence over global priorities for heritage protection (Ashworth and van der Aa 2006: 154). It has even been mooted (World Heritage Newsletter, 2001/2) that demand to World Heritage could become a legally indictable ?crime against culture? that ought to be prosecuted by some international tribunal. However, threats of sanctions, de-listing and even inscription on the ?List of World Heritage in Danger? are unlikely to be politically acceptable within the present states dominated structure of UNESCO (van de Aa and Ashworth, 2002: 8). World heritage depends upon a ?consensual approach? (Kind, 2001) but the political reality is that this consensus is between State Parties, which ultimately explains the powerlessness of the international agencies (Ashworth and van der Aa 2006:156). ?Even your work it won?t go anywhere [speaking to me]. It will only be an example. Even the blue book, it was never implemented, or used. That was work that should have been utilised that was not. If I do an awareness programme, it doesn?t bring any advantages. Why spend that money making people aware, if you are not practicing what you are teaching? Of, why is it worthy for me to be part of the awareness programme if my belly is hungry? Why go to a workshop? I know that I?ll go there and eat, but my family is hungry at home. There is not way ? but we have to start somewhere.? Zainal Acting president of the Association of the Friends of Mozambique Island ?The World Heritage is very important. We value it a lot. But UNESCO is not valuing it. Because the island was declared World Heritage 15 years ago and they haven?t yet done anything as a result of the declaration. In 2001 there was a huge team that came here with specialists in the environment, tourism, geography, cultural and many others, to see how this island could be fixed. They stayed one week and then left, wrote a report where they said they had 50 priority projects for the island. They sent a letter and the five most priority projects were chosen ? the bridge, the fort, the sewage pipes, the teachers residency, until today nothing has come of it. UNESCO does not value this place enough. They have a son to call by the name. they don?t clothe, they don?t feed. He grows like a goat. Roaming. Nothing is ever done here.? Gulamo Mamudo President of the Municipal Council ?Nothing has changed since the island became World Heritage. Nothing whatsoever.? Flora Maria de Pinto Magalh?es President of the Tourism Association At the same time, in line with my theoretical proposal regarding the concept of appropriation, there is a need to instil a sense of responsibility in each islander, which I believe will be easier to create and feed once people understand the value of conserving it, and how they can ultimately benefit from responsible behaviour. ?This city is very small. Each one of us should feel responsible. That would be a way of protecting the World Heritage. There are civic education programmes, but people don?t want to absorb the information.? Gulamo Mamudo President of the Municipal Council ?We should work together. When it comes to a problem of the people, we should work together to serve the people. Collaborate ? cleaning the city together. As it is we are only messing up. At the end of the day, this belongs to the people, and we can follow what the people want. We should educate the people about the laws. But, here each person has a different way of thinking, and things don?t work out very well.? Martinho Carola and Manuel At?pore Secretaries of Neighbourhood 121 * Legislation No matter how powerful, legislation will remain ineffective unless accepted and understood by the people. It is implicit here that such legislation should be formulated in a participatory way. In particular, and especially at the design stage, the process should involve those it concerns most and not those to whom it may concern (Ndoro and Pwiti 2009: 4). The purposes of legislation is to promote good management of the nation estate and to enable and encourage communities to nurture and conserve their legacy? as part of their well-being?. (Ndoro and Pwiti 2009: 3) Legislation is another key aspect in the management of Mozambique Island, given that its conservation has to follow specific rules (such as the renovation of the fa?ades per the initial construction techniques) in order for the World Heritage status to be maintained. In this manner, I believe it to be fundamental that this legislation becomes itself appropriated by the islanders, and in order for that to happen I believe that the present state of affairs in the island ? poverty and modernisation ? need to be considered. The current legislation needs to consider the real economic possibilities individuals have, and make rules that can actually be met by the owners of these houses. The state and the community based legal systems must be brought into a relationship of complementarity and symbiosis, rather than antagonism and competition (Ndoro and Pwiti 2009). * Research ?I believe there should be an in-depth study about what each body should be responsible for, so that we avoid party politics, and start developing this island.? Flora Maria de Pinto Magalh?es (President of the Tourism Association) In-depth research and understanding of the context allows one to gain perspective into what World Heritage can potential mean to a specific location. In terms of achieving sustainable and inclusive management, beside in-depth research, participation and education are the other pillars that I believe should be highly considered in order for a World Heritage Site to have a successful existence and benefit its inhabitants. In general, research needs to come from a more informed reading of places and people and, in this manner, participatory design constitutes interaction between various groups in order to achieve a common goal. A model of political engagement has to be chosen where constant consultation between all groups is maintained. Or work with a small group of representative people, modelled on the ?local office? approach, where a small number of people shape the answers and plant the strategic moves (Jones et al, 2005: 261). 122 ?Sometimes I think of telling UNESCO: ?You are looking at buildings, but inside those buildings there are people?. So we have to start looking at the human fabric at the same time.? Flora Maria de Pinto Magalh?es President of the Tourism Association; Photographed in the front stoop of her house 123 ?One of the things that I consider to be important and that UNESCO should understand is that in parallel with the rehabilitation of the buildings, people should rehabilitated too.? Flora Maria de Pinto Magalh?es (President of the Tourism Association) * Potential Benefits of Appropriation ?What we are trying to do is to mobilise, sensitise to see if the population can participate in a more active manner, by visiting the museum. Through dialogue, explaining the importance of visiting the museum, so that they start internalising bit by bit that the museum belongs to them.? Silv?rio Naoito Director of the Museum of Mozambique Island ?Mozambique Island is a World Heritage site due to its architecture, to its culture, the crossing of cultures from the past. I think that anyone that visits this island feels embraced by the people. That is a particularity of a place. Also it has the uniqueness of having a big difference between Stone town and Macuti town. Even in Macuti town, where people live in bad conditions, if you go visit there, they will invite you in their homes, and offer some tea. It?s a different culture. There are tourists that come here and fall in love with that type of thing, and so that?s one of the things we are trying to do ? to finance three or four house so that the tourist can live amongst the people, as the whole island is heritage.? Flora Maria de Pinto Magalh?es President of the Tourism Association The appropriation of the concept of Mozambique Island as a World Heritage, would have been easier, and perhaps faster, if the direct, indirect, short, medium and long term benefits had been made explicit to the island?s residents, from 1990, when the status was awarded to the island. In light of the existing complexities, understanding the possible benefits the population could have from the island being a World Heritage is key for the transformation regarding the sense of ownership the islanders feel towards the World Heritage, and therefore the manner in which they maintain and conserve the built and cultural heritages. How does the World Heritage of Mozambique Island benefit its islanders? And in future, what kind of empowerment could the islanders seek towards when appropriating the island?s status and what is its wider meaning? It is my stance that the World Heritage status of Mozambique Island does not bring out many obvious benefits to the residents of this locality. In their rhetoric, the interviewed subjects, firstly, did not talk about its World Heritage Status being an important feature/characteristic of the island. In contrary, although the majority had heard about the expression world heritage, they did not understand its meaning. Secondly, when asked why they thought Mozambique Island had been awarded this status, their understanding was not clear nor was it based on historical facts (as accounted by UNESCO, and declared in their confirmation of the island?s status); explanations used simple historical understandings, not informed by information around the importance of the architecture and urban form of the island in the context of the ?discoveries? era, placing it at the origin of their culture and of their country. Thirdly and finally, the subjects clearly placed World Heritage as a concept that has been attributed by an external body, without their own consent, participation or understanding. The following sections explore potential benefits of appropriating the World Heritage of Mozambique Island. We have already seen that the costs and benefits of heritage accrue much more widely than merely to those who own or occupy it (Graham et al. 2000: 134). 124 ?Without its heritage, Mozambique Island is nothing. Without its heritage, foreign people would forget Mozambique Island.? Abdul Rahim Ali Momade Director of Madrasa Babu Salaam When the potential appropriation of an external/global idea might bring economic benefits to the individual and/or to the community to which the individuals belongs to, this is taken into consideration in a more forward and practical manner. Depending on whether the economic benefits are direct, indirect, short term or long term, the individuals and/or the community might act differently towards the appropriation of such a thing, varying the degree of interest, appropriation itself, and benefit. My own viewpoint is that different types of perceived economic benefit determine the action and attitude towards the new thing. While the economic empowerment might not be direct in any way, it could entail the increase in someone?s perceived economic status in a community. For example, the appropriation of an American dress code for the youth of Mozambique Island brings upon the appropriator the look of being well-off, and belong to the community of rappers and musicians who have big cars and gold jewellery, without bringing any actual economic benefit. Listing a site in the World Heritage List increases its visitors? numbers many times over, as it legitimises the universal value of a place or a culture. Therefore, there is a need for close collaboration with the tourism bodies so as to create a sustainable management plan for the site, considering what the visitor to World Heritage Sites will need (Leask 2006). ?Every party should be able to explain to the population that parties do not exist so that they can have small conflicts. [?] If we had to deal with an informed population we would have no problems whatsoever. But the problem of having a vulnerable population ? people take advantage to attain a certain objective.? Alfredo Matata (District?s Administrator) Political empowerment can be individual and/or for the community; an individual might increase his/her status, personal power and gains that come with that, and/or the community can become politically more powerful, regarding its state of democracy, ability to raise funds for public services, participation in the political life of the nation, or the region, amongst others. At first sight it may seem curious that heritage would have any role to play at all in the shaping of place images designed to encourage economic development. After all heritage is composed of aspects of the remembered, preserved and imagined past, while development is essentially planning and investment for a future that is different from, and presumably better than, any such past. It seems more logical for a place wishing to appear eager to change, and to this end shaping a local consensus favouring development, to actively disavow, or just passively forget, its past from which it wishes to escape into a brighter future. Thus in seeking a rapid transition from a rejected past to a desired future, many revolutions at least begin with a deliberate iconoclasm, or state-sponsored amnesia, that removes the cultural accoutrements of the past so that development into the future can proceed unfettered. Given this, why goes heritage have such an active role in shaping contemporary place images, especially those deliberately designed to encourage development? (Graham et al. 2000: 162). Social benefits exist at various levels, and of course it can all be seen as an individual and/or communal gain. To be socially empowered can be described as an activity or idea that brings to its appropriator the 125 actual or perceived sense that there is social upliftment, regarding the social state of individuals and communities. Given that the social sector of a society incorporates the level of poverty, the social condition regarding the access to public services, the state of public health as well as the general well being of the society, it can be assumed that, when a idea or practice seems to enrich the social life of an individual and/or community, through social empowerment, this will be sought after and appropriated. Although individuals and communities are attached to their social perceptions, their practices and their beliefs, they are also able to change voluntarily, so long as that change comes in their interest, and for their best. In addition change can also be imposed forcefully or not, where the individual and community choose how to adapt, whether to resist, how to appropriate and to what degree (again, depending on the benefits that it might bring). Globalised movements, which seek to change people throughout the world for the benefit of a few, present themselves as opportunities for empowerment, as well as personal and communal gain. Change in the practice of new practices and beliefs can bring increased spiritual upliftment and empowerment for an individual and/or a community. While such spiritual benefit might be direct and obvious, more than often individuals? spiritual growth is something complex to experience and to evaluate. I believe that as individuals come into contact with new practices and beliefs that they might see the benefit in appropriating, changes are made towards this. Benefits might include spiritual strengthening, social cohesion, and increased social status by association. * Tourism Tourism is an industry with much potential in World Heritage Sites. With an eased access to travel around the world and a stronger than ever sense of time-space compression, people enjoy exploring less travelled countries. Such is the case of Mozambique, which in the last decade has seen its tourism industry blossom enormously and become a great source of profit for those directly and indirectly involved. Additionally, people enjoy travelling to sites that carry historical meaning, in which one can witness ?how things were done before? and to an extent, how we came to be how we are now. Mozambique Island is one of those sites, as its role in the Spice Route from Western Europe to Asia was critical, as well as in the establishment of the slavery trade. The claim of a space as a World Heritage Site in the current post-modern neo-liberal space-time compression world automatically increases the interest in this space, it becoming the target of leisure and heritage tourism. Mozambique Island, as a World Heritage Site, receives particular attention, as this status legitimises a special offering this place holds to the rest of humanity. The World Heritage status bestowed upon the island has a direct and clear impact on the tourism industry of Mozambique Island, clearly intensifying it. Who benefits from Mozambique Island being a World Heritage Site? There are two main population groups that benefit from this, but within these two, individuals benefit in a heterogeneous way. Firstly, there is the population of Mozambique Island, who, through the tourism industry, could benefit economically and socially. Secondly, there are the visitors, who benefit from the historical knowledge they absorb as well as the physical and emotional experiences lived while visiting Mozambique Island. Going back to the first population group, on one island of approximately 30 000 126 individuals, everyone has a different relationship with the tourism industry; individuals benefit from it differently, according to the way they appropriate the idea of it, how they explore it, and where they stand in relation to it. The benefactors could be anyone that consciously decided to explore the tourism industry that is currently blossoming due to the World Heritage Status of the island, and those who indirectly benefit from it (children of business owners, amongst others). Additionally, it is worth keeping in mind that the loss of the World Heritage Status as well as the continuing degradation of the island, will contribute very negatively towards the growth of the tourism industry in this locality. ?This one is also his. And that one, all the way to the end of the road. The whole block in fact. But he?s not around. He was here to buy them about 18 months ago.? Momadi tells me this as matter of fact this morning. I am shocked a foreigner has been able to buy such a large plot, and its adjacent plots too. I am even more shocked that the property is not being looked after. At all. There are roofs falling down, and I could see that people have tried to steal the wooden frames. What makes one eligible to own World Heritage? Should one?s intentions be considered, or is it merely a matter of financial capacity and dealings with the ?right? people who are willing to facilitate such endeavour for a little bonus. Nonetheless, as Hall (2006) reminds one, there are potential implications of increased tourism for World Heritage Sites, which need to be carefully taken into consideration, in relation to the existing complexities of these sites. Hall (2006) remarks that these implications entail extra tourists, more government and agency support, changed access and use of the site, new regulatory structures, and changed economic flows (Hall 2006: 21). I recommend that the National government of Mozambique as well as UNESCO take extra care and pay attention to the impact that tourism will have on this island, from its visible to the less visible impacts. The tourism industry in Mozambique Island needs to be closely monitored, and organised to allow for the islanders to benefit from it. Only by developing a positive, dynamic interface between local people and tourist as key stakeholders will it be possible to continue to provide a distinctive cultural tourism experience celebrating cultural diversity at each World Heritage Site as well as improved visitor management (Millar 2006: 50). ?I think it?s very good that foreigners visit the island. Those who have something to sell, when there are some visitors they can make some business. Without the support of foreign people we are not known.? Abdul Rahim Ali Momade Director of Madrasa Babu Salaam ?If there was more tourism, if there were conditions to receive more tourists that would be great. Tourists bring good things, because when we have something to sell they buy it. It?s another way for the population to benefit. When they come in here they buy everything: cakes, beads, cookies. Everything!? Martinho Carola and Manuel At?pore Secretaries of Neighbourhood ?I think that the future of the island goes through three fundamental development areas: the fishing industry, the tourism industry and the production of salt.? Flora Maria de Pinto Magalh?es President of the Tourism Association ?Leaders must have sensibility in what comes to tourism, heritage, and economy.? Flora Maria de Pinto Magalh?es President of the Tourism Association ?We?ve got a project entitled ?OPEN YOUR EYES? ? it?s a development project to exchange experiences about tourism at national level. So we have chosen Niassa where there is cheap sustainable tourism. We intend to take a few tourism operators and two community leaders so that they can see the connection between tourism and community in those places.? Flora Maria de Pinto Magalh?es 127 President of the Tourism Association ?Tourism. The future of the island is only tourism. I think it will happen because we are walking towards it, we are getting ready for it.? Imo Municipality?s Officer for Finances and Public Works ?I want to believe that once the condition of the buildings has been bettered then that will mean a greater attraction of tourists, of investors. With more tourists and interested investors, there will be a bigger profit which will mean more employment, which will mean more families with bread, which means a better quality of life.? Silv?rio Naoito Director of the Museum of Mozambique Island * 6.4 Conclusive thoughts: The Field of World Heritage ?We are not static, but we should maintain that which is our heritage, accepting those values that make this a World Heritage Site. So that other people when they come here can say: ?These people here they know that this really is Mother of the World?.? Cristina (District Director for Education, Youth and Technology) World heritage is a status awarded to specific places that have outstanding value to humanity based on their physical and/or cultural qualities. On the other hand, it is also a concept that, if not appropriated and understood, does not reflect the status, and its value to humanity. This is where the notion of scale, the global, the local, and the in-between, comes in handy, helping bring light to the gap between the concept and status, and its materialisation on the ground. I suggest and argue for [1.] the need of closing the gap between the global and the local, [2] thinking of appropriation as a means to fill up that gap. World Heritage is a global concept and status. It is given by a world-recognised body, and managed by the national government (and determined national/regional agencies). In local terms, the place to which the award is attributed, exists in a specific context, with particular issues and strategies ? which are themselves informed and determined by issues at local, regional and global levels. I suggest [3] that thinking of global and local as binaries does not help understand the issues at hand in World Heritage sites. One needs to ?measure? and question the level of appropriation of the global concept and status, so as to understand how this has been made into a local one, with uniquely blended characteristics. Perhaps then, everything is local, or everything is global, and ideas and notions travel the word aided by new media technologies, political alliances and economic policies. It is no accident that the Regional Development Agencies see the benefits of World Heritage status as an opportunity to being people living in adjacent communities together, to develop a sense of self-worth and civic pride (Millar 2006: 52-3). Graham et al. maintain ?heritage is simply an assertion of ownership of the past and until that ownership can be collectivised on a world scale, rather than nationalised, localised or individualised, than heritage will more usually be a cause of national and local conflict than global reconciliation? (2000: 240). My belief is that Graham et al.?s argument will not apply in the spirit in which globalisation together with nationalism are the driving global forces behind identity creation. At the same time, I am interested in observing, in the decades to come, whether World Heritage Sites will be able to create a sense of belonging to all those 128 who visit them. UNESCO, by giving the maintenance responsibility to the state in which the site lays, is not supporting their collectivisation. * The complex worlds of sites that are awarded Heritage Status cannot be undermined, ignored or simply unquestioned. Locations are specific, having contemporary and historical characteristics that determine particular relationships to the local, regional and the global, as well as relationships with power, geography, economy and culture. As shown throughout this research report, the manner in which individuals appropriate the status of World Heritage attributed by an external body to the locality they inhabit, changes according to the complexities of the social, political, economic and religious environment of that locality, as well as according to the benefits that individuals receive or perceive as receiving. World Heritage is, like other concepts, subjective, ever-changing, determined by the context in which people understand it and use it, existing in a particular network of social, economic and political relationships, and impacting on the networks and rhythms of the locality that has been attributed this status. The specificity and fluid nature of this concept should influence the specificity and fluidity of the status itself, in which the World Heritage Site, in practice, should be fashioned according to its context, rather than aiming at imposing new, different, over-arching, proved-somewhere-else theories and development practices in a World Heritage Site. It is my argument that World Heritage Sites need to be managed in a way that is participative, inclusive of its context and that in itself, allows for change, allows for it to be appropriated and become localised. So, how can the concept of World Heritage be challenged? Although, world heritage sites exist in relation to the rest of the world and according to the significance that they possess for generations to come, they are also localised. In light of this, the concept and therefore the management of it has to be localised too; allowing for the participation of its management by local individuals, demonstrating how its appropriation could benefit these individuals. If this important fact of World Heritage is ignored, misunderstood or undermined, the process of a site being attributed such important status does not develop appropriately or have the development products that it could, especially when we look at developing rural settings. 129 ?I?m a part of Mozambique Island. When they say that Mozambique Island is Cultural World Heritage ? there is no history without people. It is people who make history.? Issufo Buanami Former District Administrator; my Interpreter for this project; Photographed in front of the ;old bridge? 130 7. Conclusion This section aims to bring this research report to a closure through the presentation of the argument that threads it, demonstrating the novelties manifested by the author both at a theoretical and a practical level within the context of World Heritage. Although my research only involved individuals that live on the island, from the informal conversation I had with regional and national government officials, as well as with Unesco staff, I conclude that their appropriation of Mozambique Island is itself poor and does not prescribe it total commitment, of either financial, technical or managerial resources. The responsibility is passed on from institution to institution, demonstrating a lack of interest in taking the human development and conservation of this island forward, into another level of sustainability in which tourism could play a great role in the betterment of the lives of the islanders of this World Heritage Site. The conservation of the heritage of Mozambique Island, given that the whole island has been nominated World Heritage, needs to be the result of a communal effort, managed by a recognised body that has technical knowledge of how to conserve, and in the case of Mozambique Island, also restore. So, in other words, although the effort of conservation of Mozambique Island needs to be administered and overseen by a technically recognised and institutionalised body, that should not mean that individuals loose their sense of responsibility. Individual responsibility towards the conservation of their heritage should be instigated, encouraged and claimed by the influence in the perception of the how individuals and groups could benefit from the conservation of the World Heritage of Mozambique Island. Mozambique Island was declared a World Heritage Site, by UNESCO, in 1991. Since then, in 2008, it was threatened with the possibility of losing its status, and falling into the list of Endangered World Heritage Sites. I started this research with the intention of unravelling the paradox behind why Mozambique Island is in such a poor conservation and management state, while its universal value recognised. What I went to find out was less technical and practical then I expected. What the investigation gifted me with was a new and, for me, vital way of understanding World Heritage in which individuals inhabit. The answer to my research question: Why is the World Heritage of Mozambique Island in its present state? is weaved in the concept of appropriation and that of complexities of a locality. I argue that the complexities of Mozambique Island determine the perception the islanders have of how World Heritage could potential benefit them, which in turn, directly informs conservation, maintenance and management strategies (at community, city council, regional and national levels). In other words, the appropriation of the identity and space of Mozambique Island as a World Heritage is fundamental for its conservation, maintenance and management. Appropriation only happens when the individual or group concerned think that he/she/they would benefit them at whatever level they think to be positive for their own lives. In the case study of Mozambique Island, through qualitative research, I came to the understanding that most subjects interviewed do not know what World Heritage is. They do not know what it signifies, how they could benefit from potential tourism associate with it and therefore why they should be putting extra effort in conserving it. 131 I argue that on Mozambique Island there is a non-appropriation of its World Heritage due to its complexities, the main being: severe poverty, short goal orientation, lack of education, overpopulation, bad governance, inadequate political structuring of organisations and their responsibilities and poor support from the National Government. So could this state of non-appropriation be rectified? My suggestions include education, research and participation as the enabling tools. Through education individuals will understand the value and significance of World Heritage, for all other human beings, and for themselves and their children. Educational strategies would highlight the various ways individuals could benefit from the conservation and maintenance of their World Heritage. Research is fundamental in the development of a management plan. The various complexities, those that are visible and those that are invisible, need to be further explored and considered when developing strategies for the conservation and maintenance of this World Heritage Site. I argue that research needs to be done for extended periods of time, with vast contribution by local individuals who have been able to see complexities outsiders are unable to. Through in-depth research strategies the appropriation of World Heritage through participation, educational projects can be drawn and implemented. Participation in the development of a management plan and in the implementation of this is fundamental for the appropriation of World Heritage as something in which the islanders are involved and are consulted. Should integrated participation fail, the implementation of a management plan will not succeed even if the strategies are technically sound. This research question is complex on its own. Questions of the relevance of World Heritage in light of the poverty of the island emerge. I do believe in the importance of World Heritage, given its value as a witness of history. But I also believe in the importance of a locality and how Mozambique Island needs to be understood for what it is before we jump into making it a World Heritage site according to case-studies and world tested management plans. In this manner, my research report contributes in new, dynamic and exciting ways to the disciplinary fields of space studies, human geography and developmental anthropology. It links theory into practice, further contributing to the field of World Heritage and Management studies. The concept of appropriation and its benefits is central when attempting to look at the relationship between space and individuals. As for Mozambique Island, I trust that I have contributed in problematising World Heritage in relation to the island?s complexities. This report challenges development and management strategies currently employed in Mozambique; it challenges the idea that foreign technicians have the authority to write management reports; it challenges the way organisations liaise with each other and the values they act upon; it offers a fresh view into how individuals have the right to not take care of something others think of as important; it gives each individual value, making them equally important to World Heritage itself; it says ?let?s stop, reflect, and act according to the actual reality of Mozambique Island?; and finally, it suggests that there is a positive and constructive way forward, through deeper knowledge of the island, through educating its inhabitants and through including them in its development, so that they do feel that the efforts put into the conservation and maintenance of their World Heritage will benefit them and their families, and will make them proud as the custodians of a space of universal value. 132 ?My favourite building is the hospital where I was born. 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If you ever moved, did you move from one neighbourhood to another? 9. When and why? 10. Currently, do you own the house where you live? Part II ? Citizenship in Mozambique Island 11. Do you feel you are an active citizen in the life of Mozambique Island? 12. In what ways do you participate in the social life of Ilha? 13. What are you contributions to the social life of Ilha? 14. Do you belong to any association in Ilha? 15. If yes, which association? 16. If yes, what position to you hold? 17. If you could do more what would you do? 18. Do you feel you have the opportunity of participating in the public life of Ilha? 19. Is your participation limited in any way? 20. If yes, by whom? 21. If yes, in what way? 22. If yes, how do you feel about this? Part III ? Level of Life in Mozambique Island 23. Describe the level of life in Mozambique Island according to you. 24. What causes this level as you describe? 25. What do you think that could / should happen so that the life in Ilha betters? Give me your three priorities. 26. Which institutions should be responsible for the execution of those priorities? Part IV ? Future of Mozambique Island 27. Do you like living in Mozambique Island? Explain why. 28. Do you want to continue living in Mozambique Island for the rest of your life? Explain why. 29. Do you ever think of moving to the continent? Explain why. 30. Would you life your children and grandchildren to live here? Explain why. 31. According to you, realistically, how do you see the future of Mozambique Island? 32. Ideally, what is the future you wish for Ilha? Part V ? Perceptions and Value given to World Heritage 33. Is Mozambique Island a World Heritage site? 34. Since when? 35. Why is Ilha a World Heritage site? 36. What geographical area is considered World Heritage? 37. What is World Heritage? Please give me a definition. 38. Who attributed that status to the island? 39. Does this status hold any significance? Explain. 40. Has there been any change due to this status? 41. If yes, what were the positive changes? 42. If yes, what were the negative changes? Part VI ? Participation in the Conservation / Protection of World Heritage 43. Do you participate or have you ever participated in the protection of the World Heritage? 44. If yes, in what way? 45. If yes, where exactly? 46. If yes, when exactly? 139 47. Do you participate or have you ever participated in the reconstruction of the World Heritage? 48. If yes, in what way? 49. If yes, where exactly? 50. If yes, when exactly? 51. Do you have the opportunity of participating in the reconstruction or protection of the World Heritage? 52. Would you like to participate more? 53. If yes, what would you do, if you could? 54. If yes, explain why you do not participate more. 55. Is your participation limited in any way? 56. If yes, by whom? 57. If yes, in what way? 58. If yes, how do you feel about this? 59. If you could, if there was a Local Committee for World Heritage would you like to be part of it? 60. Do you think that those who worked for it should be remunerated? 61. If you could, would you like to participate in the design of programmes for the protection of World Heritage? 62. If you could, would you like to participate in the implementation of programmes for the protection of World Heritage? 63. Which institution is currently responsible for the management of Mozambique Island?s World Heritage? 64. Is this institution performing well? Explain why. 65. How could this better? Part VII ? Education about World Heritage 66. Have you ever been educated or informed about World Heritage? 67. If yes, by whom? 68. If yes, when exactly? 69. What information do you remember receiving? 70. Have you ever educated our informed someone about World Heritage? 71. If yes, whom? 72. If yes, when exactly? 73. What information do you remember transmitting? Part VIII ? Personal Perspective on World Heritage / Mozambique Island 74. If you could better a component of Mozambique Island?s World Heritage, what would that be? 75. What geographical area of the island needs for work? Explain why. 76. According to you, which building has the highest value? Explain. 77. Which is your favourite building in the Island? Explain. 78. If you could choose a building to be recovered which one would that be? Explain. Part IX ? World Heritage in the World 79. Are there other World Heritage sites in the world? 80. If yes, do you know some of these? [give me three examples] 81. From the ones you mention, do you know why they are considered World Heritage? 82. Have you ever visited another World Heritage site? 83. If yes, when and why? 84. If yes, did you like it? Explain why. 140 Appendix 3: List of Interviewed Institutions Municipal Council District Administration Mosques Secretaries of Neighbourhood Traditional Chiefs Religious Leaders Cultural Groups Association of the Friends of Mozambique Island NUSA Association Department of Culture, Education and Technology Association of Tourism High School Museum 141 Appendix 4: Brief History of Mozambique Island MOZAMBIQUE ISLAND: WHERE CULTURES CONVERGE By LUIS FILIPE PEREIRA, VICE PRESIDENT of the Association of the Friends of Mozambique Island 6th of June 1992 Spanning the contrary effects of the Indian Ocean on side and close relationship with the nearby mainland its other side, Mozambique Island has a longstanding tradition of being able to assimilate foreign influences and foment an enormous wealth and variety of interchange between cultures. Over the centuries these influences have been both absorbed into the inhabitants? daily life and at the same time have been adapted to the specific characteristics of the local surroundings. Special demographic, biological, cultural, social and economic phenomena have converged in the island, creating a unique from of urban settlement with a homogeneous cultural unity all of its own. Owing to its convenient location close to the Northern mainland of Mozambique and at the crossroads of many Indian Ocean routes, as well as its safe bay, the island has had a crucial role as a trading centre along this part of the African coast. The vastness of the Indian Ocean favoured maritime communications. The climate, with its rotating monsoons and relative absence of storms, permitted safe and regular crossings by sailing boat. Communications by sea were more economical than other forms, as long as it was possible to build boats able to carry merchandise efficiently and safely. With such ocean going ships, the seas and tides brought people together instead of separating them. The Indian Ocean this became a cultural continuum from the first centuries of our era until almost the 15th Century. The result of these contacts between Arab and Bantu peoples was the development of a unique cultural amongst the Islamised peoples of the coast, known as the Swahili culture. The Islamic people who came to Mozambique Island were probably from Zanzibar, Kilwa and the Comoros. Naharra, the Macua dialect spoken here, is a linguistic group inherited from this Swahili culture. Land communications between sub-Saharan African and the rest of the world were tenuous. Accessible harbours for the ocean going sailing boats were thus a vital means of transporting goods, and hence also for transmitting cultural influences. Goods for export were brought to the towns and to the coast, thus favouring closer relations among the various coastal people rather than between them and the peoples living in the interior. The Arabs were the navigational pioneers in the Indian Ocean. They were in contact with the Mozambican coast from the 8th century onwards, and their commercial activities resulted in the appearance of the first trading posts. During this period of Island expansion, the Arabs monopolised the maritime trade between East and West. India was forced to accept Arab seamen as the sole intermediaries for their goods. For several centuries, spices and other Eastern exports could only arrive in European markets through Arab intermediaries. The Islamic sultanate of Gujarat was the main centre of commercial activity of the East. The prosperity of some Indian Ocean towns and ports derived from their strategic location as points of transit for merchandise from the East. Indian traders, some of the Muslims, began to appear in East African ports. They reached a tacit understanding with the Arabs, whereby the latter and the Islamised or Swahili population retained the links with the interior. Competition between Arabs and Indians, and in particular between Arabs and Chinese on the seas, illustrated the importance of the spice route and the trade in luxury merchandise. The trading profits of the Arabs, Indians, Chinese and Indonesians, the easterners secrecy as to their commercial circuits and the spice route, combined with myths of wealth and abundance, precious stones, beautiful cloth, exotic perfumes, valuable timber, delicious fruit, the renowned pepper, and the unknown and wonderful world located somewhere, out there beyond the near-East, made Westerners envious and keen to penetrate that world, dominate the routes and control the wealth. Consequently, with their unique combination of a well-developed middle class and considerable sea going experience, the Portuguese tried to link the main shipping routes and gain a monopoly over commercial exchange between East and West. 142 Vasco da Gama arrived at Mozambique Island in 1498 and sought out information on the route to India. However, he only managed to get there with the help of an Arab pilot recruited much further North in the port of Melinde. From the 16th century onwards, the Mediterranean gave way to the Atlantic, and Lisbon and Seville replaced Venice, Genoa and Marseille, as the centre of attention. The Portuguese were interested in Mozambique Island as a safe harbours enroute to India, and also as the outlet for the gold from Monomatapa, which was exchanged from the Asian spices. In later centuries, ivory and the slave trade became important as an easy source of wealth. But the project did not advance as the Portuguese had planned. The Islamised communities, which were already organised into political communities, sheikhdoms and sultanates ? in particular Sancul and Quintangonha ? and which had close though subordinate relations with Zanzibar and the Comores, put up strong resistance. They did not wish to loose their privileges, particularly in the export of slaves and the control of some commercial circuits. In addition to the Portuguese, there were other European competitors in the race to control the trade routes. The Dutch tried to occupy Mozambique Island in the 17th century, the French managed to become the main intermediaries in the slave trade to the Indian Ocean Islands, and the British increased their control over the region?s navigational routes. In the face of all this activity, Portuguese colonial occupation was no easy task, and it was only achieved in the 20th century. Mozambique Island as it exists today, is the result of this historical process. Its architectural and lifestyle reflect the successive Arab, Swahili, Indian and Portuguese cultural influences it has assimilated over the centuries. The Indian Ocean islands and coastal cities, such as Mogadishu, Mombasa, Lamu, Zanzibar, Comoros, Ibo and Mozambique Island clearly have many similar features, as a result of their common cultural influences, commercial functions, and building materials and techniques. Mozambique Island, the old colonial capital, has buildings dating from the 16th to the 19th century. Stone, white-wash and macuti (palm fronds) are the most common building materials in the coral based Indian ocean coastal towns. The clearest signs of the Portuguese occupation can be seen in the fortress, St. Paul?s Palace, the 16th century Manualine Chapel filled with motifs relating to the ?discoveries?, the facades and interiors of the Catholic churches, the paved streets, and the style of some of the houses and monuments. The Indians, who settled on the Island in large numbers from the 17th century onwards, became the main distributors of cloth in the interior in exchange from local goods. Trading posts, warehouses, doors, verandas, porches, indo- Portuguese style furniture, and a Hindu Temple attest to this influence. The Swahili culture predominated to this day, in the people?s lifestyle. It is visible in the music, dancing (tufo, ntsope and mualide), food, trading practices and houses (both stone and macuti) and also in the Muslim religions which governs all aspects of daily life. 143 Appendix 5: Relevant Extracts from the City Council Code MOZAMBIQUE ISLAND CITY COUNCIL CITY COUNCIL CODE 2006 Edition Page 3: 2.1 This City Council Code is a gathering of municipal rules and norms destined to regulated the cohabitation amongst the residents, regulate the code of the city council residents with regards to the environment, regulate the exercise of their economic and socio-cultural activities, as well as the constructing of new buildings, the preservations and restoring of the immovable, historic and archaeological heritage of Mozambique Island. 2.2 The norms and regulations presented in this Code are compulsory for all citizens and bodies based or with activities in Mozambique Island City Council. Page 4: 4.1 Mozambique Island?s city council has, especially its insular city, a secular historic reservoir, where people of various places in the world crossed paths and fused, with especial emphasises for the Macua, Ajawas merchant, Indonesians, Persians, Arabs, Chinese, Indian and Portuguese, the latter having occupied the territory by gun force. 4.2 The cohabitation between the owners of this land and all those that came to stay in this strategic territory, created e consolidated cultural values that enrooted itself in the islanders? lives, as it can be felt in their humility and hospitability, in their eating and dressing habits, in the architectural characteristics of their buildings and the materials used in the traditional and conventional buildings. 5. BUILDING LICENSING The building of new building and the reconstruction of degraded existing one in the interior of Mozambique Island, will obey, always and compulsory, to the previous technical approval of the Office for Conservation of Mozambique Island, where the licensing and other administrative proceedings are the responsibility of the Municipal Council. Page 6: 6. HISTORICAL IMMOVABLE HERITAGE The conservation, restoring, rehabilitation and maintenance of immovable heritage will be done considering the original architectural characteristics, specially with regards to the terraces and facades, including the original materials used, such as stone and lime, macuti and others, it being compulsory that the use of other materials rather than the originals as well as the introduction of strange elements be approved by the Office for the Conservation of Mozambique Island. Page 9: Chapter II ? CODE ABOUT SANEAMENTO, ENVIRONMENT AND GRAVEYARDS Section I ? ABOUT HYGIENE AND CLEANLINESS Article 1 ? (COUNCIL?S RESPONSBILITIES) It is Mozambique Island?s Municipal Council?s responsibility to care for the public hygiene in the whole city, Lumbo Village and beaches, providing cleanliness and garbage collection e the positioning of mobile garbage depositories in all public streets, parks, sidewalks and squares, beaches and municipal graveyards. PAGE 67 Chapter VII ? CODE ABOUT CONSERVATION AND RESTORING OF IMMOVABLE HERITAGE Article 102 (Previous facts) 1. Mozambique Island is part of World Heritage List since 1991, with this declaration: ?The City and the forts in Mozambique Island and in the Island of St Lourenco are an excellent example of architecture with local traditions, and Portuguese and to an extent, Indian and Arab influences, all entangled?. Furthermore, ?Mozambique Island is an important witness to the establishment and development of the Portuguese maritime routes between West Europe and the Indian sub-continent and towards the rest of Asia. 2. The authenticity of the Island is considered to be original because its architectural unity is noteworthy due to the consistent use, since the 16th century, of the same construction technique and the same construction materials, especially stone and lime, as well as the decorative principles. 3. It is important to note that the whole island has been inscribed as World Heritage, with it s Stone Town and Macuti Town and all its buildings, forts, streets, open air locations, harbours, other construction and the seashore, as well as the Island of St. Lourenco. Article 103 (Normative Principles) 1. In the name of the Mozambican state, the National Direction for Cultural Heritage (DNPC ? Direc??o Nacional do Patrim?nio Cultural), represented by the Office for the Conservation of Mozambique Island, is responsible for the administration and monitoring of this World Heritage Site, while the Municipal Council in its quality as Government of Autarchy, has the responsibility of everyday administration of the World Heritage of Mozambique Island. 144 2. In principle, all buildings of Mozambique Island, are listed are historical monuments and are dealt in this way. 3. The global objective of this code is to bestow authenticity to the buildings and of the City for the coming generations. Page 71 Section II HISTORICAL and CULTURAL WORLD HERITAGE Article 108 (Of Classification) 1. The City of Mozambique Island is classified Historical and Cultural World Heritage due to: a. Its history; b. Its immovable heritage and secular monuments; c. Its architectural patterns and urban unities; d. Its movable and immovable cultural goods; e. Its localities and places of historical and archaeological interest. 2. The Law of Protection of Cultural Heritage currently in place is the principal legislative tool for the defence of the heritage of Mozambique Island, it being the responsibility of the City Code to materialise this in the jurisdiction territory of the Autarchy. Article 109 (Of Administrative and Technical Authority) The President of the City Council and the Office for Restoring and Conservation of Historical Monuments of Mozambique Island are the principal authorities responsible for the realisation and implementation of this Code. Page 72 Defence and Protection of the Historical heritage of Mozambique Island Article 110 (Restoration and Conservation of Historical Cultural) 1. The restoration construction works and any type of technical intervention on the historical monuments is of the responsibility of the Office for Restoration or institutions directed at this and rightly authorised. 2. The restoration construction works and any type of technical intervention in the remaining built components of Mozambique Island, will always be performed under strict authorisation from the President of the City Council, taking into consideration the advise from the Office of Restoration and Conservation of Monuments of Mozambique Island. 3. It is strictly prohibited to modify, partially or totally destroy the facades of the buildings in the area of cultural protection, on threat of fine and obligation to recompose the architectural expressions as well as the initial finishings. 4. It is compulsory to obey to the rules and principal basic techniques of restoration, including the doses and application of advised material during the restoration works, under the threat of gradual fines according to the gravity of the transgression e subject to demolitions of these sections, under the responsibility of the transgressor. 5. It is the responsibility of the Office of Restoration to develop, divulge and orient the basic technical principal of restoration, as well as the recommend listing and dosage of construction materials. 6. The mistakes in the intervention and restoration constructions works that are not repaired on a voluntary basis, will be sanctioned with fines as well as criminal proceedings. Article 111 (Commercialisation, Sale and Movement of Cultural and Heritage Goods) 1. The group of objects created or collected throughout history, by the various people that inhabited Mozambique Island are considered Cultural and Heritage Goods, including: a. Specials and groups of material such as rocks, minerals, shells, fossils and others; b. Objects of archaeological, numismatic, philatelic and heraldic origin, namely: i. Licit and ceramic objects; ii. Emblems, coat of arms, flags, symbols and banners; iii. Old manuscripts, rare editions, illustrations, maps, pictures and bibliographic documents; c. Pieces of art and arts craft, such as panels, painting, drawing, and objects of popular art; d. Movies and sound clips of historical value. The sale or commercialisation of cultural and heritage goods will be permitted to individuals and collectives, with priority given to Museums, Monuments, Conserving Entities or Collectors and private citizen.